Leicaflex SL2 Underexposure Issues: ASA setting or?

[kbleicher]

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Hi,  I bought a Leicaflex SL2 from eBay a few weeks ago.   They say it tested good, but all of my exposures are consistently 2-3 stops underexposed.  Sample images:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/wJhCSdMwmtbBXW6Y8

I used the built-in light meter, but it was challenging to get the needle to align within the frame that shifted with exposure setting changes.  At first the internal exposure meter didn't seem to work at all with the supplied battery.  I bought a new one that matched the specs and it seemed to do the trick, but perhaps not.

I also tried to use two different external light meters but had consistent results with the internal meter.  Thus the internal meter seems to be consistent with others, but everything's underexposed as if something's wrong with the SL2's ASA setting.

I'm shooting with a Vario-Elmar-R 1:3.5/35-70/60 R-Series Type 1 using Kodak Gold 400 24-exp print film.   I'm setting the ASA by aligning the '400' with the white marker, so I think I have that right.  I aligned the sun icon (shooting outside) with the chrome button on the right side of the same knob per the manual.

Thanks!

 

[hepcat]

What battery are you using in the SL2 body?  If it's a 1.5v  alkaline cell instead of a 1.35v mercury cell, that can in fact lead to what you're seeing.

Under what conditions did you make the comparison with hand-held meters?   Were you using all three in reflected mode on an 18% gray card as a side-by-side comparison?  Are they also meters designed for mercury cells that you're using alkalines in, or are they known to be accurate?

The indicator icons around the rewind knob are merely reminder indicators about what kind of film you have in the camera and have no effect on exposure.

Edited January 7, 2023 by hepcat

[kbleicher]

Hi, I bought a PX625/PX13 1.35V battery replacement (mercury free), and the light meter seems to be working fine as a result.

I used my Canon R5 and an app on my phone as light meters.  They were both consistent with the light meter on the SL2.  I hear what you're saying about the gray-card, but that would probably only differ by a stop or two; the exposures from the SL2 are off by more than that imho.

Thanks for the clarification re: the type of film setting.  That makes a ton of sense that it's just a reminder.  For the life of me I couldn't figure out how it'd impact the exposure itself.  Guess that was handy before they added the film window.

I tried the camera without film with a couple of lenses, and everything seems to be working correctly.  Dunno; maybe the lab screwed up and it's time for another roll with some heavy variation in settings long with detailed notes to nail it down more....

[hansvons]

If were you, I'd test the camera's internal light meter with a proper external meter. This meter is THE classic light meter that generations of cinematographers have used and still use:

https://global.sekonic.com/sekonic-l-398a-studio-deluxe-iii-analog-light-meter/

Mine is now almost 30 years old and survived 15 years of heavy use. You can get them used for a bargain. It doesn't need a battery, and it's accurate. I tested with that meter my two freshly acquired R6, and it turned out that they metered roughly what I was reading with the Seconic.

IMO, all else is groping in the dark.

[kbleicher]

I hear you regarding the meter, but in this case I used 3 different meters with consistent results so I don't think this is the problem.  Plus the previous owner reported that it worked fine for him, which again is making me think a processing problem and that I should try again with a different roll.....   He never had trouble with the meter or ASA setting.  I'll reload and try with different settings to see if I can tune it in.  I didn't know if there was a historical gotcha with the SL2 and/or other awesome hints that I could find here...

[Fookuda]

Hmm, what i’d do is shoot a test, and by that I mean, go through your cameras settings side-by-side with your R5. Write down on a card the exact settings that were shot on each frame and compare the two. You can set this within the frame in a bottom corner so you know each exposure “ASA, Shutter Speed, ISO..”

My guess might even be that your shutter is firing faster than it’s being told to do.

OR it’s a lab and they’ve fogged the film?