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11 hours ago, ArnoG said:

With HP5, I always need to boost contrast in LRC curves panel. Thoughts?

Me too. HP5 appears notoriously “greyish” or “flat” when shoot with it. That's why I gave up on HP5. As a remedy, I pushed it mildly adding contrast this way. Maybe Xtol is too compensating for HP5 and we should use ID11. Your Foma 400 shots look nice in Xtol. Seems like Foma 400 benefits from Xtol.

In my market, Tri-X is not more expensive than HP5 anymore. So, that’s an easy dicision. I know that this is somewhat unfair to HP5, given that I‘ve seen nice images shot with it and it’s legendary reputation. 

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11 hours ago, ArnoG said:

and I still like the tones better than HP5, which always seems to make a wash from zones V-VIII (due to increased red sensitivity?)

The increased sensitivity in the red-yellow spectrum also affects Delta 400. However this is only visible when shooting people. The skin becomes distinctly brighter and less contrasty than Kodak typically renders skin. However, Delta 400 looks overall better to my eyes than HP5 due to nicer, inherent contrast. Thus, I believe the greyness of HP5 is due to its formidable latitude, which is ridiculously large.

HP5 was created with journalists in mind who needed a stock that delivers information in any situation and it does that remarkably well. I once shot it at EI 1200 and pushed it 2 stops. It looked better than Delta 3200, which has a boxspeed of ISO 1000 and which I find barely usable. I also shot it at EI 800 and pushed it by a stop and liked the results better than at EI 400. But as usual, everything comes with a cost and that is pronounced grain and shadows that start to become inky as with any undere,xposure. So, I figured that shooting at box speed and using more rigorous agitation is the best way to deal with HP5 for best results. But Tri-X gives me what I‘m looking for without any hassle and doesn’t require pushing when underexposed by one stop.  

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11 hours ago, ArnoG said:

I’m not sure if I can blame the film. At some point I tried a different type of reel (one of these metal ones) and the film touched the film below it and gave bad spots. Will look if it was this film. I used quite a bit of Foma 400 and never noticed funky things 

that wierdness is definitely film caused. 

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16 hours ago, hansvons said:

HP5 was created with journalists in mind who needed a stock that delivers information in any situation and it does that remarkably well. I once shot it at EI 1200 and pushed it 2 stops. It looked better than Delta 3200, which has a boxspeed of ISO 1000 and which I find barely usable. I also shot it at EI 800 and pushed it by a stop and liked the results better than at EI 400. But as usual, everything comes with a cost and that is pronounced grain and shadows that start to become inky as with any undere,xposure. So, I figured that shooting at box speed and using more rigorous agitation is the best way to deal with HP5 for best results. But Tri-X gives me what I‘m looking for without any hassle and doesn’t require pushing when underexposed by one stop.

I always found HP5+ mushy in the shadows because it's a "long toe" film designed for pushing. You can resolve that by pushing development, of course, but the tonal relationships never look right to me, and you get increased grain. Tri-X is a little better because it's less pushable, but my favourite 400 was the old APX (which hardly gained any speed with increased development). I may come across as a heretic, but I really like TMY if I need to shoot at ISO 400.

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11 hours ago, PetPhoto said:

that wierdness is definitely film caused. 

I checked. It was not the new developer spool attempt in which short sections of film touched each other, but it was the first shot on the roll, so perhaps..., well..., I don't know...

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23 hours ago, hansvons said:

HP5 appears notoriously “greyish” or “flat”

Just stumbled over this guys' HP5 shots on flickr - 

https://www.flickr.com/search/?sort=date-taken-desc&safe_search=1&tags=hp5&user_id=44828871%40N06&view_all=1

quite a lot of "bold" photos, I thought you like maybe?

Lots of them apparently shot at 640 and and developed in XTOL..

..not sure how he does it but apparently it works for him 🙂

 

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8 hours ago, username said:

Just stumbled over this guys' HP5 shots on flickr - 

https://www.flickr.com/search/?sort=date-taken-desc&safe_search=1&tags=hp5&user_id=44828871%40N06&view_all=1

quite a lot of "bold" photos, I thought you like maybe?

Lots of them apparently shot at 640 and and developed in XTOL..

..not sure how he does it but apparently it works for him 🙂

 

and probably given a good run through the photo shop AI system too boot

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On 2/25/2025 at 1:36 PM, hansvons said:

Me too. HP5 appears notoriously “greyish” or “flat” when shoot with it. That's why I gave up on HP5. As a remedy, I pushed it mildly adding contrast this way. Maybe Xtol is too compensating for HP5 and we should use ID11. Your Foma 400 shots look nice in Xtol. Seems like Foma 400 benefits from Xtol.

In my market, Tri-X is not more expensive than HP5 anymore. So, that’s an easy dicision. I know that this is somewhat unfair to HP5, given that I‘ve seen nice images shot with it and it’s legendary reputation. 

When I used HP5, and Xtol. I liked the look I got by shooting at 200 and processing at the 800 times. Over-expose and over-develop. 

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HP5, EI400, 11:30 in Xtol 1+1 at 20.6 C, 30" initial inversions, then 5" every 30" (as per Kodak Xtol sheet). Only black and white point set: Flat skin tones. Also, HP5 seems much cleaner and sharper in Xtol 1+3 (see my earlier post, close to the beginning of this thread).

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Same film: Setting only B&W points yields grey muck

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As before. I really don't like the tonality of HP5 and won't use it again. Of course it can be boosted as per @oldwino or in software but the skin tones will remain flat.

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I honestly realized that Ilford label film is set for the lighting in England or scotland and not really the high mountains in summer or winter.. Or the alps in winter.

 

Like your "mucky" shot of the woods trail.. not bad at all. But I have to ask, what was the meter reading of the dark trees, the light trees, and the shadow the dark trees were in?

 

In my PERSONAL moments with HP5, Delta 400, and kentmere 100(?), the films dont truly enjoy a wild variation in lighting in a scene

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5 hours ago, PetPhoto said:

I honestly realized that Ilford label film is set for the lighting in England or scotland and not really the high mountains in summer or winter.. Or the alps in winter.

 

Like your "mucky" shot of the woods trail.. not bad at all. But I have to ask, what was the meter reading of the dark trees, the light trees, and the shadow the dark trees were in?

 

In my PERSONAL moments with HP5, Delta 400, and kentmere 100(?), the films dont truly enjoy a wild variation in lighting in a scene

lol. This was Holland in winter. Not much different from England and Scotland (in summer…) and I didn’t have a spot meter, only incident so “something” average, there was actually sun, it was a high contrast scene, I was trying to get my last HP5 filled with anything, and I was testing a Contax iia, which I know has accurate shutter speeds, with a biogon 35/2.8 for that at hyperfocal distance that apparently didn’t work so well for infinity…I know that HP5 is supposed to have a large bandwidth, but I would have preferred to have some lovely tonality double x instead…

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1 hour ago, ArnoG said:

lol. This was Holland in winter. Not much different from England and Scotland (in summer…) and I didn’t have a spot meter, only incident so “something” average, there was actually sun, it was a high contrast scene, I was trying to get my last HP5 filled with anything, and I was testing a Contax iia, which I know has accurate shutter speeds, with a biogon 35/2.8 for that at hyperfocal distance that apparently didn’t work so well for infinity…I know that HP5 is supposed to have a large bandwidth, but I would have preferred to have some lovely tonality double x instead…

ilford doesnt like huge variations between light and dark. I probably killed 10 rolls of delta 400 before i realized it.. 

But still not too bad. Maybe print on an enlarger 1 grade lower..

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17 hours ago, ArnoG said:

As before. I really don't like the tonality of HP5 and won't use it again. Of course it can be boosted as per @oldwino or in software but the skin tones will remain flat.

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Agreed. Know this grey-ness inside out. Get Tri-X. Less work on contrast required. HP5 and faces work in harsh light and flash though. 

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Contrast can easily be added in post as attached, but its a bit of GIGO...I indeed switched to Kodak, with double x, tri-x, and Tmax...

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/26/2025 at 8:36 AM, hansvons said:

Me too. HP5 appears notoriously “greyish” or “flat” when shoot with it. That's why I gave up on HP5. As a remedy, I pushed it mildly adding contrast this way. Maybe Xtol is too compensating for HP5 and we should use ID11. Your Foma 400 shots look nice in Xtol. Seems like Foma 400 benefits from Xtol.

In my market, Tri-X is not more expensive than HP5 anymore. So, that’s an easy dicision. I know that this is somewhat unfair to HP5, given that I‘ve seen nice images shot with it and it’s legendary reputation. 

I have the same opinion, and shoot HP5 pushed to 800 for the same reason. It improves the look (much closer to Tri-X look, I think ).  Where I live HP5 is still half the price of Tri-X so I am sticking with it but much prefer Tri-X 

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On 2/26/2025 at 9:05 AM, hansvons said:

So, I figured that shooting at box speed and using more rigorous agitation is the best way to deal with HP5 for best results. But Tri-X gives me what I‘m looking for without any hassle and doesn’t require pushing when underexposed by one stop.  

Maybe I'll need to try this with HP5 , because yes the grain is sometimes much to pronounced in my pushing to 800
 

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