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Zeiss 25mm biogon question


jonoslack

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HI there

I'm teetering on the brink of buying one of these lenses, and I realise that I'll need to get a new mount from Zeiss to get the framelines, then send it to John Milich to get the coding.

 

However, my question is this:

If I buy the lens with the normal mount and hand code it with a sharpie, will it recognise it as a 24mm elmarit even though it doesn't bring up the correct framelines?

 

The point being that if it DOES work hand coded, I can get the lens straightaway and then fiddle about with mounts etc. whilst using it hand coded. If not, then there isn't much point in getting the lens until I have a coded mount to put on it.

 

any help gratefully received

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Hello Jono,

 

no, the lens will not be recognized as a 24 Elmarit if you don't change the mount. The Zeiss 25 mount brings up the 28 framelines, and you can sharpie-code it as a 28 but not as a 24 - not even if you hold the frameline selector in the right position. See Sean Reid's review of 24-25mm lenses for more info. Plus, if what you asked could be possible, there weren't any need for changing the mount - one could just mill and code the original mount and life would be much easier :D

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HI Vieri

Many thanks for that. I'm still considering what to do, Robert White have the silver one in stock, which is attractive, but based on what you say, there isn't any point in getting one until one has the mount.

Unless, of course, you can find someone who has already done the work for you!:)

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HI Vieri

Many thanks for that. I'm still considering what to do, Robert White have the silver one in stock, which is attractive, but based on what you say, there isn't any point in getting one until one has the mount.

Unless, of course, you can find someone who has already done the work for you!:)

 

Indeed ;)

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Flanges, codes, mount changes aren't really necessary...unless you are a working pro and need the correct frame for critical work. I have the Zeiss ZM wideangles, including the 25. I use the viewfinder to focus (not necessary either...zone focusing will do) and take the shot...check the LCD monitor...take in too much, move in a couple of steps...don't cover enough, move back a couple of steps.

The 25 is a very sharp lens with the typical Zeiss rendition of color and contrast...so are the 21, 35, and 50 Zeiss ZMs.

Don't let the "cron, lux, milled mount" crowd sway you. Like all the M cameras, the M8 is really very simple to use and handle...and encourages you to exercise a little creativity without the aforementioned adaptations.

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I've got the Biogon 35 and have enjoyed it immensely without flange work or coding, too. I'd like to get the Milich filter adapter to go with it so that all of the black polyester clothing in China doesn't go purple. That's about all I can imagine needing.

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HI Not having the lens coded besides blacks can lead to some funky looking foliage.I have the lens I have had 3 zeiss lenses this is the one I have kept. the 21 went becasue I got a wate and the 50 f2 went when i got a summilux. Get the 25 great lens get it coded. Worth it David

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Jonathan,

 

Can't comment on the coding issue but I can give a strong vote for this lens on the M8.Here are a couple taken this spring - no coding.

 

 

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Flanges, codes, mount changes aren't really necessary...unless you are a working pro and need the correct frame for critical work. I have the Zeiss ZM wideangles, including the 25. I use the viewfinder to focus (not necessary either...zone focusing will do) and take the shot...check the LCD monitor...take in too much, move in a couple of steps...don't cover enough, move back a couple of steps.

The 25 is a very sharp lens with the typical Zeiss rendition of color and contrast...so are the 21, 35, and 50 Zeiss ZMs.

Don't let the "cron, lux, milled mount" crowd sway you. Like all the M cameras, the M8 is really very simple to use and handle...and encourages you to exercise a little creativity without the aforementioned adaptations.

HI Roy

Well - to start with I decided to use the M8 without IR filters - but in the end I had too much trouble with foliage in strange lighting, so I made a strategic decision to use filters. Whether that was the right decision or not is a moot point (but I think that generally speaking it was).

 

One thing I'm certain of is that you have to do one thing or another - in a brief period of using filters on some lenses and not on others I had a series of catastrophes where I forgot to turn it on or off in the firmware.

 

So - I need to use a filter, in which case I need to code the lens, and if I'm going to code it as a 24 elmarit, then I need to get the mount, simple as that. I could hand code it as a 28 'cron in the meantime, but I don't think there is any escape from coded lenses otherwise.

 

The framing doesn't matter at all - you're quite right, especially with 24mm, which is really easy to 'see' in the M8 viewfinder. As for 'working pro', I do some PR work, and the occasional wedding, so I'll let you decide about that!

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HI Not having the lens coded besides blacks can lead to some funky looking foliage.I have the lens I have had 3 zeiss lenses this is the one I have kept. the 21 went becasue I got a wate and the 50 f2 went when i got a summilux. Get the 25 great lens get it coded. Worth it David

HI David & Carlos

I think you're right.

I'm committed to using IR filters, which means I must get it coded anyway, and as you say, foliage can come out strange without.

Mind you, there is also some argument for getting the little CV lens - it's so tiny, and wide angle wide open isn't really my bag!

I'm tempted (oh Yes!)

thanks for posting

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Jonathan,

 

Can't comment on the coding issue but I can give a strong vote for this lens on the M8.Here are a couple taken this spring - no coding.

Hi Keith

These are lovely (although the red on the second shot, nice as it is, suggests either no coding or possible Aperture!).

 

I've been searching for a silver 24 elmarit, but this would be a much cheaper option, and I'm almost convinced!

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Regarding IR filters. I'm taking the "troll under the bridge" approach here...I'm in my 40th year of Leica M and SL photography, and I don't use filters...never have. I believe that (however slight) there is a degradation of image. I live in South Florida and do most of my photography in the early AM when there is naturally some red in the light...I process the images in Photoshop, and manage to filter out the red/magenta cast fairly well. The greens are not the sensational greens you get with Zeiss lenses on a 5D or 1Ds. I don't have clients anymore to satisfy with my pictures...only myself...and I'm very happy with the Zeiss/M8 combination.

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Regarding IR filters. I'm taking the "troll under the bridge" approach here...I'm in my 40th year of Leica M and SL photography, and I don't use filters...never have. I believe that (however slight) there is a degradation of image. I live in South Florida and do most of my photography in the early AM when there is naturally some red in the light...I process the images in Photoshop, and manage to filter out the red/magenta cast fairly well. The greens are not the sensational greens you get with Zeiss lenses on a 5D or 1Ds. I don't have clients anymore to satisfy with my pictures...only myself...and I'm very happy with the Zeiss/M8 combination.

Hi Roy

If you were bored enough to search through my posting history, you'd find that I was once the same troll under the same bridge:)

But I had a few unpleasant chlorotic greens on an exciting Gunnera shoot in the springtime, and then, I really couldn't take the chance of doing pr stuff without filters - so I caved in and started using them.

I do sympathise though - and in most cases it's easy to get the colour right . . . . on the other hand, now I'm using filters I AM getting those sensational greens, and it really isn't that much of a hassle . . . . added to the fact that there is a little gem of security in adding a filter to the front of a very expensive lens!

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Modifying the mount to bring up the 24 mm lines seems relatively easy. I bought the lens secondhand (but new) and the previous owner had filed off a bit (5 mm) of the flange that activates the framelines (that's the one at 11 o'clock position when the lens is viewed from behind) to make a nice step.

I then coded it myself as 24 mm asph, using the Dymo as template method. The head of the screw must be painted white though. Works like a charm. Excellent lens.

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  • 2 years later...

Thought I'd bring up this old thread again - this time regarding the M9 and M film cameras (i.e. M6/M7).

 

Does the 25mm ZM bring up the 28mm framelines in the M9? I couldn't find a clear answer and read confusing things about modifications necessary, so I'd be glad if someone could confirm the facts.

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I had the silver one and used it on the M8 with no coding and the original mount and was really happy with the results, even the 28mm framlines weren't a great problem. I then saw a used one at classic cameras that already had the milich adaptor and 6 bit coding so I exchanged for my standard one. they are no selling it for £699 and it is only a couple of months old

Carl Zeiss 25mm f2.8 Biogon ZM Silver boxed as new

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