Leica M10-P when export to iphone, images color (Monochrome) is diffirent, need help.

[dusuacangmong]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi Guys,

I just took a M10P and try to use Monochrome mode with JPEG file, the images color on the Leica is very great, high contrast, but when i use Leica FOTO app to transfer file to Iphone, the color is not like on the Leica, don't know how to make it same color by anyway. I tried to export to Mac, but same result as on iphone.

 

I would need help for this. Just happen with monochrome mode, the color mode seem okay.

Alexx.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[S Maclean]

a couple of things come to mind.  One, the screen quality on either a phone or a computer is very different from the Leica LCD. For example, the dynamic range or tonality in the monochrome images will be far superior on a high quality screen which would mean the images in the Leica may appear stronger in contrast, a little punchier.  If that is the case look into Lightroom or equivalent contrast and dynamic contrast adjustments.  It may also help to test some of the B&W presets in your image editor, (photoshop, Lightroom, capture etc) as that will give you a vast selection of results from very contrasty to over exposed etc etc.  This can give you a quick glance as tomwhat your image can render under different settings and wether you can replicate the exact result you want.

B&W and Monochrome images show dynamic range and tone in a more obvious way, becasue color rendering does not come into place or distract from the more simple and pure B&W gradients.  In other words, you are seeing more clearly contrast, light, and dnamic range on a B&W.  The same issue is probably happening on your color images, but you are not seeing it as clearly. Most likely the color images appear richer in the LCD, and more natural on screen.

The other option, which you probably hav e addresed already, is wether you are exporting a DNG or Raw file (as you should), In which case the Leica LCD is giving you a Jpg edit, but exporting a raw file without the adjsutments made.  As a test take an image and make sure your camera is saving both a raw fule and a jpg and then export both.  See if one of them is closer to what you want than the other.

Another little option is to adjust your LCD so it renders either natural B&W (as opposed to high contrast) and natural color (as opposed to vivid)  as his does NOT affect the raw file, but it affects how your camera treats the JPG.

Edited September 23, 2022 by S Maclean

[dusuacangmong]

23 hours ago, S Maclean said:

a couple of things come to mind.  One, the screen quality on either a phone or a computer is very different from the Leica LCD. For example, the dynamic range or tonality in the monochrome images will be far superior on a high quality screen which would mean the images in the Leica may appear stronger in contrast, a little punchier.  If that is the case look into Lightroom or equivalent contrast and dynamic contrast adjustments.  It may also help to test some of the B&W presets in your image editor, (photoshop, Lightroom, capture etc) as that will give you a vast selection of results from very contrasty to over exposed etc etc.  This can give you a quick glance as tomwhat your image can render under different settings and wether you can replicate the exact result you want.

B&W and Monochrome images show dynamic range and tone in a more obvious way, becasue color rendering does not come into place or distract from the more simple and pure B&W gradients.  In other words, you are seeing more clearly contrast, light, and dnamic range on a B&W.  The same issue is probably happening on your color images, but you are not seeing it as clearly. Most likely the color images appear richer in the LCD, and more natural on screen.

The other option, which you probably hav e addresed already, is wether you are exporting a DNG or Raw file (as you should), In which case the Leica LCD is giving you a Jpg edit, but exporting a raw file without the adjsutments made.  As a test take an image and make sure your camera is saving both a raw fule and a jpg and then export both.  See if one of them is closer to what you want than the other.

Another little option is to adjust your LCD so it renders either natural B&W (as opposed to high contrast) and natural color (as opposed to vivid)  as his does NOT affect the raw file, but it affects how your camera treats the JPG.

Thank you for the reply.

So you have the same problem like me? Any solution to match the color from Iphone with Leica?

[S Maclean]

19 minutes ago, dusuacangmong said:

Thank you for the reply.

So you have the same problem like me? Any solution to match the color from Iphone with Leica?

Anyone that is viewing images on a low def lcd and comparing them to a high resolution screen ( be it iPhone, iPad, or any larger high end computer) will experience this issue.  
 

I am careful to not word this as a problem as there is no problem, just a natural difference in quality.

on the second part of your question I do not know of any automatic way to match the two.  The closest would be to create a profile ( for example added contrast, dimished shadow detail and  highlight detail) and apply it on import.

What I want to note though is the image on a small lcd on camera may appeal to your taste and be impactful on contrast etc but the image on the better screen is most likely a better IQ.  The camera LCD should really only serve to check if your focus points are ok, if you have capture the “moment” or you need to keep shooting, and overall light balance etc, not to evaluate the IQ.  I have many images that look good on LCD that I toss away once I see on a lever better screen.  And some images that really only come to life on the editing screen when all their detail is revealed.
 

I don’t  know what editor, if any, you use, but try to see if you can get the effect you want with the following.  ( I am guessing here based on my perception of LCD rendering versus high def rendering)

1- lower exposure slightly. This will give you more to work with .  You can increase exposure back at the end of editing. 

2 - increase contrast ( if using Lightroom try with dynamic contrast as well as it is a little more punchy and subtle on balance)

3-lower shadow detail ( this will make the blacks darker and eliminate some of the gray ( you can also i’work with increasing blacks as well. So shadow will eliminate some gray and increased blacks will further cut on the dynamic range)

4- same thing now with the highlights.  Increase highlights a little and you may loose detail in highlights but further contrast the image.  You can also as above, adjust whites.  Adding whites and increasing highlights will also limit the dynamic range.

5- go back now to exposure and play to get the balance you want. After the above steps increasing exposure will punch up the image significantly, because you have limited the mid tones .  Lowering the exposure further will give you a fairly modern image treatment. Moody.

I, once again, note that all the above is actually degrading your image. It may work for some images but overall you’re cutting off the cameras IQ by taking away the nuance of the mid tones, the gradients and the dynamic range quality Leica can produce. But if that’s the look you’re going for for a specific image the above should help you get closer.

as you learn to edit more you’ll find other ways like adding a yellow filter to B&W images or working with curves or masking specific areas for fiber detail. 
 

good luck

[dusuacangmong]

Thank you, S, for a very detailed reply. I truly appreciate this.

[sometimesmaybe]

I agree completely with the above. If colour accuracy is important to you, you should look to edit your work on a monitor with good sRGB coverage (from memory Macs are usually pretty good but your mileage my differ). This will ensure the image you edit looks as colour accurate as possible, BUT depending on what screen the viewer uses, this could well be moot as their screen isn’t colour accurate.

Just speaking generally IPS LEDs tend to be more colour accurate, but can’t show true black. While OLED screens give good contrast and tend to produce more vibrant colours. Depending on the combo of editing and viewing monitors used, the image can look nice on IPS and super saturated on OLED.  

My workaround is just to edit on one type of screen and check it on the other, just to make sure I can live with both.

[dusuacangmong]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

On 9/29/2022 at 6:23 AM, sometimesmaybe said:

I agree completely with the above. If colour accuracy is important to you, you should look to edit your work on a monitor with good sRGB coverage (from memory Macs are usually pretty good but your mileage my differ). This will ensure the image you edit looks as colour accurate as possible, BUT depending on what screen the viewer uses, this could well be moot as their screen isn’t colour accurate.

Just speaking generally IPS LEDs tend to be more colour accurate, but can’t show true black. While OLED screens give good contrast and tend to produce more vibrant colours. Depending on the combo of editing and viewing monitors used, the image can look nice on IPS and super saturated on OLED.  

My workaround is just to edit on one type of screen and check it on the other, just to make sure I can live with both.

Thank you.

[Chimichurri]

The iPhone is too small to make edits. I edit on the iPad Pro 11” 2nd Gen. I use Pixelmator Photo. It’s amazing.