Experimenting with Lith

[odd]

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Hi,

 

I' v seen some nice Lith prints in the forum that has inspired me to try it my self.

Posting tree photos, all scaned from print.

 

All on Kentmere Fineprint, the Lith is developed in Fotospeed.. Ordinary BW in Ilford.

 

Comments and advices are welcome.

 

OM

[Guest trix]

I didn´t know that Fineprint VC does lith at all. I have tried it about 2 years ago, developer was LP Superlith 1+7. After 25 minutes of shaking the tray i gave up and switched to Kentona.

How old is your paper?

 

Kentmere Kentona in LP Superlith 1+10

[vic vic]

odd congrats..... i think the prints came out very well......

u will not surprised if i tell u that i love the second dark lith more..... i just love the dark blacks of lith that create the illusion as though it makes a graduated tonality.......

but the two prints are good exmaple of two main lith styles so to speakc....... those printers that love the cream-like look (like in your first case) and those that love the dark intense look .......

keep on and enjoy ...... and post from time to time if u r in the mood of scanning etc......

[vic vic]

alex ..... true........ kentona looks really great in lith...... i love to pass it through sepia toner (fotospeed three part sepia pack)....... lith develop, then bleach a little bit (not full bleach) and redevelop with full strenght sepia (for deep brawn back colour instead of yellowish)........ very flexible paper and very beaustiful for those games

[odd]

Thanks to both of you. I don’t know the age of the paper; I got it from at friend that now only work digital. But I suppose it’ s some years old. The darkest is over exposed with 8 steps an developed for 53 min (I think…. ) I almost heard a whole episode of a radio theater while waiting in the dark…. It was one of my first attempt .. next time I diluted a stronger developer.

I’l try Ilford mg warmtone next time.

 

OM

[Guest trix]

Thanks to both of you. I don’t know the age of the paper; I got it from at friend that now only work digital. But I suppose it’ s some years old. The darkest is over exposed with 8 steps an developed for 53 min (I think…. )OM

 

53 minutes ?? Man, you have lots of patience ;-)

 

The german masterprinter Wolfgang Moersch once wrote that the best lithprints are produced in the 8-10 minutes range. If the print isn´t finihed within 12 minutes it goes into the trashbin and he starts all over again.

[odd]

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Hi

Yes it took that long. But I' l newer do it again! I’ l have to try an other paper or perhaps a stronger dilution. This was the second time and I’ l continue to try it out, next time with new Ilford MC warm tone paper. Don’t know how long time I’ l expect next time?

 

By the way, like your portrait.

 

I’ v also visited your home page. Loot of good photos… I’ m a BW-man and found those the better. Hard to tell who’s the best, the man on the bike or the child and the satellite antenna? Or the eyes of the children hard to tell.. they are all good.

 

Looks like film to me?

 

But, did’ n find any lith?

[Guest trix]

I’ v also visited your home page. Loot of good photos… I’ m a BW-man and found those the better. Hard to tell who’s the best, the man on the bike or the child and the satellite antenna? Or the eyes of the children hard to tell.. they are all good.

 

Thank you.

 

Looks like film to me?

 

Yes, all pictures from Niger are on Tri-X.

 

 

But, did’ n find any lith?

 

I will include a couple of Lith-prints the next time i do an update (don´t know when this will happen ,though)

[Simon Larbalestier]

you could try wacking the dev temp up to 30-35 degrees and using a dish warmer it works well for me and keep the development time around 4 mins. Kentmere changed their emulsion a few years back and the later surface liths ok but is not so reactive with selenium. You might want to try the foma papers.

 

 

 

[Guest trix]

Simon, these are wonderful. Is this Fomatone?

[Simon Larbalestier]

The top one (Ta Promh) is on Fomatone, the girl at Angkor Wat is on a very old paper now discontinued made by Sterling (an Indian company) called Premium F, the last image Boys in the Rain was made on the earlier emulsion of the Kentona paper. These images appear much darker on the screen than they do as real print so the split tone with the selenium appears less pronounced.

[odd]

Simon

 

Thanks for your advices and for posting those wonderful pictures.

Obvious, I have a lot to learn. Reed that both you and Vic tone the lit prints.

I’ m used to use selenium tone for ordinary BW’s, but never tried sepia or split tone. That will be the next step.

 

Vic recommended Ilford MG warmtone paper in an other thread. That paper I can by here in Norway and I’ l try that. Maybe I’ l try some paper from fotospeed as well.

 

OM