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I am hovering trying to make a decision between a Q2M and Q2

I am a 90% B&W landscape photographer and already have a Fuji GFX-50r and x100V

I love the B&W Acros images from the 50R but its big and heavy with no optical stabilization, very much a tripod kit.

I want a handheld camera that's got great dynamic range, so considering the Q2M given for my 10% color images I have the Fuji's

However I understand to get the contrast tonal separation a yellow filter is needed and I need to underexpose by half a stop.

These two items add up to a couple of stops pushing the image into the noise.

If the Q2 does not need either of these accommodations, in this scenario does the Q2M deliver better dynamic range ? Its seems not but I may have got the maths wrong.

Looking for a clever person to explain the maths

https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Leica Q2,Leica Q2 MONOCHROM tell me that Q2M has a 1.5 stop dynamic range advantage at base ISOs

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The problem with the Q2M is you may need at least a light red filter if you want the same kind of dark skies you can get with the B&W color channel mixer in C1/LR. And once you've added a color contrast filter like the light red, you will loose detail in the shadows. I highly recommend moving straight to the GFX 100S. It's smaller than your 50R, has IBIS, better high ISO, better DR, and makes incredible black and white conversions. The 100S (sensor stabilization) will get you off the tripod more than the Q2M (lens stabilization).

From my anecdotal use of all three, the Q2M is somewhere in between the 50R and the 100S for DR and overall IQ. The biggest draw for the Q2M is being able to shoot at very high ISO with very little noise.

Edit: I you are set on Q2M or Q2 and don't want to consider the 100S, either will work fine. But the Q2 may seem like you are not getting enough advantage over your 50R except for the smaller size and lighter weight. I would go with the Q2M over the Q2.

Edited by hdmesa
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On 2/16/2022 at 8:26 PM, hdmesa said:

The problem with the Q2M is you may need at least a light red filter if you want the same kind of dark skies you can get with the B&W color channel mixer in C1/LR. And once you've added a color contrast filter like the light red, you will loose detail in the shadows. I highly recommend moving straight to the GFX 100S. It's smaller than your 50R, has IBIS, better high ISO, better DR, and makes incredible black and white conversions. The 100S (sensor stabilization) will get you off the tripod more than the Q2M (lens stabilization).

From my anecdotal use of all three, the Q2M is somewhere in between the 50R and the 100S for DR and overall IQ. The biggest draw for the Q2M is being able to shoot at very high ISO with very little noise.

Edit: I you are set on Q2M or Q2 and don't want to consider the 100S, either will work fine. But the Q2 may seem like you are not getting enough advantage over your 50R except for the smaller size and lighter weight. I would go with the Q2M over the Q2.

Thanks for the reply, I have considered the 100s as it could obviously re-use my GFX lenses and has sensor stabilisation. However with a current lens it's just too big and heavy for handheld with a 32-64, this is what pulls me towards the Q2M.  I would need to buy the GFX 30mm lens to go with the 100S to replicate the Q2M focal length experience in a smaller package, that's over £1.5K more than for Leica. I also ran a few 100S raw files through Lightroom on my slightly ancient iMac and its noticeably slower than Q2M dng's - bang another £2K to upgrade the iMac. The 100S is starting to price itself beyond the already 'slightly' tenuous justification. 

A lot yet to consider and think about, but thanks again for your input

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On 2/16/2022 at 8:26 PM, IanS_? said:

However I understand to get the contrast tonal separation a yellow filter is needed and I need to underexpose by half a stop.

Yellow filter is almost useless. Just use a light one for indoor use. 

Then use Orange filter for outdoor as general purpose. The sky will be awesome.

Green for portrait of Caucasians. 

Red has to be avoided for AF issue. Only in MF. But its effect may be too strong. And loss of light too high to worth it. 

Blue for misty mood in the morning. 
 

 

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5 hours ago, nicci78 said:

Yellow filter is almost useless. Just use a light one for indoor use. 

Then use Orange filter for outdoor as general purpose. The sky will be awesome.

Green for portrait of Caucasians. 

Red has to be avoided for AF issue. Only in MF. But its effect may be too strong. And loss of light too high to worth it. 

Blue for misty mood in the morning. 
 

 

Red has no effect on AF for mirrorless cameras. Red is only a problem for old DSLR film cameras or when using the rangefinder on an Monochrom M body and shooting wide open – The focus point can be slightly off, but it does not affect every lens. In any case, the color filters are zero issue for the Q2M focusing either in AF or MF mode.

I much prefer the light red filter for Caucasian portraits – makes the skin tones glow brighter like infrared film.

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Yep, orange and red filters lighten the skin tones of Caucasian people… my default for monochrome portraits is to use either of those.  I can also attest that red filters have zero affect on the Q2M autofocus.  I can focus accurately in very dark conditions when I duck into the metro and forget to swap the red for a yellow. 

Edited by Anakronox
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My experience with Monochrom is with original M Monochrom. With light yellow, medium orange, medium green, light red and dark red. 
There are two types of Red filters. 
Light red has no ill effect. 
But Dark red was a bit weird with rangefinder. Maybe way too dark for the Monochrom. 
It may be different with Q2 Mono
 

My favourite filter by far : medium orange. 

Edited by nicci78
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