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Working My Way Up To An M8


Maggie_O

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I think I can go to about $1400 without selling one of my guitars.

 

Thoughts in that price range?

 

Oh No!!! Don't Sell Your Guitar!!!

 

What a boring summer night without a guitar.

Just as boring winter storm without a guitar. :)

I have three myself, one classical (70's Yamaha CG120, love it) and two folk acoustic and my favorite is the Tacoma Road King.

Not the truck... It's made in Tacoma WA.

Peter Frampton likes it too! :D

 

-Ron

 

________________

Caveman's Gallery

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Maggie,

 

I was given similar advice about going for a M6 Classic and 35mm Summicron-M a couple of weeks ago. I started to track M6 bodies on e-bay and they have been going for between $950 and $1350.

 

I think you just have to be patient, salt away as much money as you can to add to the $1400 you can afford right now and eventually have enough to go for an M8 and a lens or two.

 

Oh, and make sure you buy a State Lottery ticket each week. You never know, you may strike lucky.

 

I think it is going to take some kind of windfall for me to ever own an M8 and I am not so sure that it wouldn't be a waste of a fine camera in my hands.

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I guess one of the considerations on the film M v RD-1 dilemma is how much you shoot. I keep thinking about getting a film M to back up my M8 and then the financial reality of film and my shooting style of "if in doubt, shoot it and edit later" kicks in. If you're a disciplined photographer who only shoots when you know you want it style of photographer I would go film. If like me, you shoot to learn, digital savings have to be factored in because they're significant.

 

Personally I'd go with a used leica film camera over a new Bessa but that's just fetishism on my part. I'm not keen on how Bessa's feel when shooting compared to Leicas. That said, if there were only film bessa's in the world and no Leicas, I'd buy one in a minute and get back to shooting. Good luck!

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I'm wondering if I was wrong to rule out the Epson RD-1s?

 

I'm thinking that the cost of film and processing could make an RD-1s (with say a 35mm CV lens) comparable to an M6 in a couple of months, if not sooner.

 

Damn, I wish I could find a sub $3000 M8! :o

 

Maggie,

 

A cautionary tale re the RD-1. I had two in quick succession both of which died without warning. The first was replaced by the dealer and when the second packed up I was given a full refund. Epson did not offer a repair facility - they simply replaced failed cameras with new stock (and there were at the time a lot of reports of failed cameras). I guess those that still remain will be the ones that didn't pack up and if they have survived to now maybe they will last a good bit more but its QC and reliability reputation was poor. Shame cos its a nice camera to use and produced some good pictures.

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I was in the same boat. Here's what i did.

After many sleepless nights I scrapped all Plan B thoughts and went for the M8. Couldn't be happier.

In order to keep cost (relatively speaking) low I didn't spend money on Leica glass at first, though. Bought instead Voigtlander, really good lenses for very little money, and (or) a Zeiss ZM 50/2 Planar (excellent lens!!!, one of my faves)

Everything's coded, by hand or by John Milich's handy work (adapters).

 

 

Be aware though, no matter what you'll do, you will end up buying more lenses over time ;-)

 

PS: For hand coding I don't use a Sharpie but a thin layer of nail polish (only black). Works as good but lasts a lot longer than the Sharpe line.

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Maggie,

 

A cautionary tale re the RD-1. I had two in quick succession both of which died without warning. The first was replaced by the dealer and when the second packed up I was given a full refund. Epson did not offer a repair facility - they simply replaced failed cameras with new stock (and there were at the time a lot of reports of failed cameras). I guess those that still remain will be the ones that didn't pack up and if they have survived to now maybe they will last a good bit more but its QC and reliability reputation was poor. Shame cos its a nice camera to use and produced some good pictures.

 

Well, since Epson has now discontinued the RD-1, I'm guessing that if it goes feet up, I'm stuck with a expensive paperweight. That's scarier than the wall cloud that was headed my way last night. :eek:

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Well, since Epson has now discontinued the RD-1, I'm guessing that if it goes feet up, I'm stuck with a expensive paperweight. That's scarier than the wall cloud that was headed my way last night. :eek:

 

Epson U.S.A. claims it will keep fixing them for the next six years. I've not tested that.

 

They even had some re-furbished ones for sale a week ago.

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I guess one of the considerations on the film M v RD-1 dilemma is how much you shoot. I keep thinking about getting a film M to back up my M8 and then the financial reality of film and my shooting style of "if in doubt, shoot it and edit later" kicks in. If you're a disciplined photographer who only shoots when you know you want it style of photographer I would go film. If like me, you shoot to learn, digital savings have to be factored in because they're significant.

 

Personally I'd go with a used leica film camera over a new Bessa but that's just fetishism on my part. I'm not keen on how Bessa's feel when shooting compared to Leicas. That said, if there were only film bessa's in the world and no Leicas, I'd buy one in a minute and get back to shooting. Good luck!

 

As you can probably guess from my Flickr photostream, I shoot LOTS of photos. I used to be a much more disciplined photographer, back when I was shooting film that I paid for, but digital has finaly made it so I can shoot for myself like I used to shoot for publication (the paper bought the film back then!). If I had a film camera again (my XA, GIII, SX-70 and F3 are arll in storage in California at the moment) I'd shoot more conservatively, no doubt.

 

Here's a couple of questions for folks who have both a film Leica (or a Bessa) and an M8 or RD-1: what film do you usually shoot and how do you handle processing? ( I don't have a darkroom anymore, but I do have a couple of decent multi-mode scanners.) What sort of film-to-digital workflow do y'all use?

 

Depending on the answers I get, I'll be deciding between plan A (save up and/or sell guitar and take the M8 plunge) plan B (get an M6 and a CV or used Leica lens) or maybe even plan C (just keep shooting like mad with my D-Lux3 until I win the lottery or a CD matures).

 

Thanks for all the thoughtful answers and discussion, they've been really valuable!

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Oh No!!! Don't Sell Your Guitar!!!

 

What a boring summer night without a guitar.

 

Concur! Save the guitars! Then take photographs of them.

 

(M8, Takamine acoustic, Fender tele, and the marvellous Martin Backpacker travel guitar, which is with me right now...)

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And to prove it, hastily snapped in the hotel room mirror: :cool:

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plan C (just keep shooting like mad with my D-Lux3 until I win the lottery or a CD matures).

 

C'mon, Maggie, you've got to spill the beans now. (a) what guitars? (B) do your cats get into them? © what kind of music?

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Here's a couple of questions for folks who have both a film Leica (or a Bessa) and an M8 or RD-1: what film do you usually shoot and how do you handle processing? ( I don't have a darkroom anymore, but I do have a couple of decent multi-mode scanners.) What sort of film-to-digital workflow do y'all use?

 

I don't shoot film currently as mentioned but what I had been thinking of was a) only shooting B/W film, B) developing it at home, c) getting an Epson 750 scanner (I once had a Nikon 4000 and it was just such a bother and you need to work with c41 b/w film from what I remember, ymmv, someone correct me if I'm wrong) and scanning the film and then working digitally. This is less than optimal (David Adamson made I think a good point somewhere here that most scanners incl the Nikon style film scanners did not live up to the quality of leica lenses) but it gets the job done.

 

Now you mentioned several guitars. Are any of them spending serious closet time the way my Canon 1dsII is? Everyone should have at least one guitar and if possible at least one Martin but if you have, like, 5 guitars and one could be set free to buy an M8... just a thought :o

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C'mon, Maggie, you've got to spill the beans now. (a) what guitars? (B) do your cats get into them? © what kind of music?

 

I am rich with guitars, but I pretty much love them all. You can see a bunch of them in this Flickr photoset.

 

My cats mostly ignore my guitars, but (as you'll see in the photos) they looooooove my synths.

 

As for my music, well (self-promotion alert!) you can get my first album on iTunes, and you can get some of my more recent stuff for free here. (oh, and there's always MySpace.)

 

Believe it or not, I don't own a Martin, nor a Gibson.

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As for my music, well (self-promotion alert!) you can get my first album on iTunes, and you can get some of my more recent stuff for free here. (oh, and there's always MySpace.)

 

Believe it or not, I don't own a Martin, nor a Gibson.

 

I had a listen. Good stuff! One of the first albums I ever bought was Jane Siberry's "The Speckless Sky". Are you by any chance a Siberry / Laurie Anderson fan? Cos it kinda sounds like it...

 

Woah, this is so off-topic...

 

[synths: JD800, DX5, DX1]

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I had a listen. Good stuff! One of the first albums I ever bought was Jane Siberry's "The Speckless Sky". Are you by any chance a Siberry / Laurie Anderson fan? Cos it kinda sounds like it...

 

Woah, this is so off-topic...

 

[synths: JD800, DX5, DX1]

 

Absolutely, Guy!

 

"Hockey" is one of my all-time favorite records. And Laurie is a goddess, aside Zeus/Lou in my firmament.

 

OT: After talking to my BF we both agree it'd be crazy to do an epic European trip and then get an M8 after we get back to the US. So, even if it takes a re-fi and a rejiggering of the bathroom improvement loan (so we'll spec a $5000.00 bathtub and buy a cheapie), we'll fork out for the M8 body.

 

Now, here comes the next big question- what's a good sub-$600.00US lens for the M8?

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Maggie,

 

I ordered the CV 40mm Nokton f/1.4 (from CameraQuest) in anticipation of my M8 purchase. Sean Reid has given very good reviews of this lens and it is a steal at $349. I sent the flange to John Milich for modification (addition of coding pits and adjusting the flange to bring up 35mm framelines instead of 50mm ones - about $35 of work plus shipping). I am eagerly awaiting my flange in the mail and then it's off to Dale Labs to test! I will be coding it as a 35 Lux.

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Maggie,

 

I ordered the CV 40mm Nokton f/1.4 (from CameraQuest) in anticipation of my M8 purchase. Sean Reid has given very good reviews of this lens and it is a steal at $349. I sent the flange to John Milich for modification (addition of coding pits and adjusting the flange to bring up 35mm framelines instead of 50mm ones - about $35 of work plus shipping). I am eagerly awaiting my flange in the mail and then it's off to Dale Labs to test! I will be coding it as a 35 Lux.

 

Is this a Leica screw mount with adapter? Is it the adapter you're having modified/coded?

 

My head is swimming with information, so any help is greatly appreciated!

 

I like shooting around 28mm on my Nikon F3 and the equivalent on my D-Lux 3 (wow, I've apparently got a thing for 3's). Will the 35 Kokton give me a wide to normal FOV? I love fast lenses, so the 1.4 is a big plus- if it's close to my beloved Canon GIII's 40mm, it'll be a winner.

 

Thoughts?

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No, the CV 40mm Nokton is an M-mount lens. The flange is held on by four small screws and a helical thread. It helps not being a klutz with this removal as you don't want to lose the screws or stain/scratch the rear lens element.

 

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL

 

  1. Place a soft clean cloth over a well lit work surface.
  2. Place the lens on its lenscap (bottoms up).
  3. Remove the back cap.
  4. Using a sharpie pen, make an alignment mark on the lens barrel and the flange. You can put a piece of gaffer's tape on the barrel (blue masking tape will do in a pinch).
  5. Using a quality jeweler's screwdriver, gently remove the 4 set screws.
  6. Grasp the barrel of the lens (if you haven't already done so) and gently unscrew the base flange to the left (counter-clockwise).
  7. Mail the flange to John Milich and he will add the coding pits. Optionally, he can adjust the flange to bring up the 35mm framelines instead of the 50mm ones.
  8. Once it returns, reverse steps 5 and 6 to reinstall the flange, making sure the alignment marks line up.
  9. Gently screw in the 4 set screws and snug them up. Do not over-tighten them or you will bind up the focus ring.
  10. Using hobby enamel paint, code the lens by filling the pits with white/black paint as needed. A small toothpick can be used to paint the code. Allow it to thoroughly dry and shave off the excess with a razor blade or X-acto knife.
  11. Mount the lens and happy shooting!

 

The FOV of this lens on and M8 is 53mm, but the 35mm framelines are a more accurate representation in the viewfinder.

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