EVF help

[Guest]

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I have been shooting with the Q2 now for about a month and love it. 

Question: when shooting in a very contrasty scene ( snow top mountains for example) I was having to shoot at sometimes -2 stops to stop blowing out the highlights, but when I looked in the EVF it was super dark and sometimes difficult to get the correct composition. I recall on another EVF that there was a way to stop that but I can’t remember where. 

Neil

[ron777]

Sounds like the same EVF issue that plagues the SL. Exposing manually from a gray card might help but not sure if it will help with the EVF dimness.

Edited May 16, 2019 by ron777

[Leica Guy]

Have you tried setting exposure preview to P-A-S? My EVF is not dark even though the exposure is clearly set to dark. 

[Guest]

7 minutes ago, iQ2 said:

Have you tried setting exposure preview to P-A-S? My EVF is not dark even though the exposure is clearly set to dark. 

My exposure preview was set at PASM. I changed it to PAS and nothing changed when I look through the EVF and turn the exposure compensation either to under or over the EVF gets darker or brighter as I turn the dial. 

Neil

[Leica Guy]

1 hour ago, NW67 said:

My exposure preview was set at PASM. I changed it to PAS and nothing changed when I look through the EVF and turn the exposure compensation either to under or over the EVF gets darker or brighter as I turn the dial. 

Neil

Puzzling. I set ISO to auto. Shutter to A. Set Aperture to A. Then change exposure compensation. Mine does vary brightness in both the EVF and LCD as I change exposure compensation. It does change when I select PAS or PASM.

It works the same if I go out of pure auto settings. Meaning if I choose aperture priority and I’m in PAS or PASM, changing exposure compensation does affect brightness.  Varying the aperture does not. 

If I go full manual and in PASM, brightness does NOT change with exposure compensation. If I go to PAS, it does vary with exposure compensation. 

I’ve not found this operation to be a problem for my kind of subjects. Not as high contrast as yours I’d guess. 

I often use exposure bracketing for high contrast situations to either later choose the exposure I like best or to combine them using HDR. 

Edited May 17, 2019 by iQ2

[4peterse]

From the manual, p. 80:

Zitat

Notes

• Depending on ambient lighting conditions, the brightness of the screen image may differ from that of the actual pictures, despite the settings described above. The screen image will appear considerably darker than the – correctly exposed – picture. That is particularly the case in long-term exposures.

 

[wda]

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Addressing simply exposure for a snow scene, I usually increase exposure by ùp to 2 stops, regardless of framing method. Perhaps your evf was telling you the truth.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, wda said:

Addressing simply exposure for a snow scene, I usually increase exposure by ùp to 2 stops, regardless of framing method. Perhaps your evf was telling you the truth.

Can’t imagine increasing exposure when without exposure compensation the snow on the hills in the background are already blown out

neil

[wda]

Neil, I was not attempting to analyse your method of exposure measurement, just a general statement based on expected adjustment for a picture of a predominantly white landscape.

[Leica Guy]

Exposing to the right 11/2-2 stops is typical for scenes that are mostly snow. The light meters in the camera will assume gray for the scene and underexpose. The snow will look gray until you boost in post if you didn’t do it in camera. I do this with all my cameras when photographing snow. 

[Guest]

14 hours ago, NW67 said:

I have been shooting with the Q2 now for about a month and love it. 

Question: when shooting in a very contrasty scene ( snow top mountains for example) I was having to shoot at sometimes -2 stops to stop blowing out the highlights, but when I looked in the EVF it was super dark and sometimes difficult to get the correct composition. I recall on another EVF that there was a way to stop that but I can’t remember where. 

Neil

Snow top mountains

20 minutes ago, iQ2 said:

Exposing to the right 11/2-2 stops is typical for scenes that are mostly snow. The light meters in the camera will assume gray for the scene and underexpose. The snow will look gray until you boost in post if you didn’t do it in camera. I do this with all my cameras when photographing snow. 

I know how to shoot snow I come from Scotland. The issue is snow top mountain with dark foreground 

neul

[jeff_m]

On 5/16/2019 at 3:58 PM, NW67 said:

I have been shooting with the Q2 now for about a month and love it. 

Question: when shooting in a very contrasty scene ( snow top mountains for example) I was having to shoot at sometimes -2 stops to stop blowing out the highlights, but when I looked in the EVF it was super dark and sometimes difficult to get the correct composition. I recall on another EVF that there was a way to stop that but I can’t remember where. 

Neil

This is just how the Q2 EVF works. If I switch to P-A-S, manual ISO, manual exposure I get normal bright EVF image when adjusting shutter speed or aperture for under exposing and image is darker. As you know in manual exposure mode exposure compensation doesn’t work. 

[Guest]

11 minutes ago, jeff_m said:

This is just how the Q2 EVF works. If I switch to P-A-S, manual ISO, manual exposure I get normal bright EVF image when adjusting shutter speed or aperture for under exposing and image is darker. As you know in manual exposure mode exposure compensation doesn’t work. 

Thanks for this. The only thing I noticed in the mode noted above is that even if your image if going to be very under or over exposed the histogram doesn’t change........ strange 

Neil

[ben446]

As a  manual shooter it would be really helpful to be able to assign a P-A-S / P-A-S-M toggle to the  Zoom/Lock button.  (Although with the Leica thumb grip the ergonomics aren't great) or add the option to the first menu screen. 

[Le Chef]

14 hours ago, ben446 said:

As a  manual shooter it would be really helpful to be able to assign a P-A-S / P-A-S-M toggle to the  Zoom/Lock button.  (Although with the Leica thumb grip the ergonomics aren't great) or add the option to the first menu screen. 

That’s easy to do in “Preferences” and how you assign the use of that button. If you do that then just save it to your profile.

[Pelu2010]

can you provide some pictures so we can see what you shot? 

That would be helpful. 

It's kind of strange writing about a photographic problem without see images. 

I bet we figure out much faster what to suggest. 

just a thought that I had while reading this thread. 

[ben446]

Turns out it is possible to assign Exposure Preview (P-A-S / P-A-S-M) as a toggle to either the FN or the thumbwheel (Right Wheel) button.  

Main Menu screen 3 / Customize Control / FN Button / Turn on only the ones you want to see on a long press of the FN Button

Same thing for thumbwheel (Right Wheel) button.

Save changes to your User Profile so changes stick.

Now a long press of either button brings up the options you selected to be available.

A great explanation from Akademie Instructor Nick Rains's video 

https://youtu.be/H67i83BbO0Q?t=907

Edited September 8, 2021 by ben446

[ben446]

On 9/7/2021 at 6:49 AM, Le Chef said:

That’s easy to do in “Preferences” and how you assign the use of that button. If you do that then just save it to your profile.

Unfortunately, as of firmware 3.1, the Zoom/Lock button cannot be assigned to P-A-S / P-A-S-M or ISO etc.  That would be very useful.

Edited September 8, 2021 by ben446

[ben446]

FWIW, I am finding it's much faster to simply use the shutter speed dial to mimic the P-A-S / P-A-S-M toggle. At least for landscapes.

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Hallo,

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