What should I check before buying M6 or M6 ttl

[Minor]

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Is there problem I should check before buy a M6 or M6 ttl

and what is the reasonable price I should looking for?

 

Thanks!

[pinchers of peril]

Some of the M6 and M6 ttl's will show weird corrosion bubbles.  This is due to the fact that the top and bottom plate are not made out of brass like most of the other M bodies.  This is purely cosmetic, but really bothers some people.  Run through the different shutter speeds.  Make sure you hear the little "drop sound" at 1/15 of a second.  Make sure the film advance feels smooth and there is no weird grinding sounds or anything.  Look at the rangefinder patch and make sure it looks clear.  M6 and M6 ttl's are notorious for having "flare" in the range finder patch under certain lighting conditions, but if this really bothers you, you can get the viewfinder switched out to an MP version.  Other than that just make sure there aren't too many weird dings or dents that would indicate hard falls.  If the seller would let you run a test roll of film through it that would be ideal, but that is not always a possibility. Good luck!  Price will depend on condition and if it's a classic or a ttl.  I think I got my classic version for about $1,000.  It was is "minty" condition so I felt like I got a good deal.  The ttl version will probably run you a couple hundred more than the classic version.  

Edited July 9, 2018 by pinchers of peril

[Guest]

...

 

If you already have a digital M or are planning to buy one, you might like the M6TTL better because the shutter speed wheels rotate in the same direction.

With M6 and all older M cameras the shutter speed wheels turn in the opposite direction.

[ckuwajima]

Usually one buys M6 because of built-in photometer, therefore check the everything associated: back metering adjustment wheel, viewfinder LED indicators, shutter button triggering and correct metering at all shutter values.

Battery compartment should be clean.

[Lukas F.]

I'd stay away from the M6 TTL.  If the light meter dies chances are that not even Leica can fix it.

[Minor]

Some of the M6 and M6 ttl's will show weird corrosion bubbles.  This is due to the fact that the top and bottom plate are not made out of brass like most of the other M bodies.  This is purely cosmetic, but really bothers some people.  Run through the different shutter speeds.  Make sure you hear the little "drop sound" at 1/15 of a second.  Make sure the film advance feels smooth and there is no weird grinding sounds or anything.  Look at the rangefinder patch and make sure it looks clear.  M6 and M6 ttl's are notorious for having "flare" in the range finder patch under certain lighting conditions, but if this really bothers you, you can get the viewfinder switched out to an MP version.  Other than that just make sure there aren't too many weird dings or dents that would indicate hard falls.  If the seller would let you run a test roll of film through it that would be ideal, but that is not always a possibility. Good luck!  Price will depend on condition and if it's a classic or a ttl.  I think I got my classic version for about $1,000.  It was is "minty" condition so I felt like I got a good deal.  The ttl version will probably run you a couple hundred more than the classic version.  

 

Thanks for advice 

btw 1000$ was a great deal for mint condition

right now the lowest I saw is around 1800$ I think I should wait for a better deal then

[Minor]

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I'd stay away from the M6 TTL.  If the light meter dies chances are that not even Leica can fix it.

 

I heard that before too. If Leica can't then who can?

Edited July 10, 2018 by Minor

[Mute-on]

I heard that before too. If Leica can't then who can?

Recent threads on this have not identified a solution.

 

Stick with original M6.