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focusing


davidecossu

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Unless covering sports, most situations can be handled by a WA and a short Telephoto. Anything 24 mm or less makes focusing not as important for most shots and it actually improves your ability to get close to individuals and direct them. I have a 35mm Summilux ASph but my next WA will be the 21mm Asph as the depth of filed on the 35mm requires focusing. For the short tele I prefer my 75 Asph over my 90mm Asph but one must focus precisely which is a skill that can only be learned by practise as already suggested.-Dick

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A pale or green face is a common phenomenon amongst rep and doc photographers.

Don't worry Davide, it's happened to all of us in the beginning.

Perhaps, to assist us in answering your question more to the point you could reveal more precisely what went wrong.

Did you practice in advance in focusing, were your "subjects" running all over the place, was there little light so you had to use fully open aperture and couldn't work with sufficient DOF.

Were you nervous because someone expected you to come back with killer pix?

Wedding, social misfits, butchers annual BBQ, kiting on the beach, 100 iso or 400?

Let us know!

Being green as a photographer isn't a shame, were here to help.

 

 

Fr.

 

 

I was just wandering around hide park, speakers corner and a concert with a good even light, i guess about 125/f8 at 400 iso. Lots of pictures are completely out of focus, maybe i didn't have good reflexes because i was "chasing" my subjects and not waiting for them.

I thought that with a 35mm lens shouldn't be too diffilcult to focus.

Thanks,

Davide

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I was just wandering around hide park, speakers corner and a concert with a good even light, i guess about 125/f8 at 400 iso. Lots of pictures are completely out of focus, maybe i didn't have good reflexes because i was "chasing" my subjects and not waiting for them.

I thought that with a 35mm lens shouldn't be too diffilcult to focus.

Thanks,

Davide

With 1/125s and f8 they ought to be sharp and in focus. I guess You just shaked the camera while taking the pictures.

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Davide, I do not know what your expectations are considering exact focus and motion blur.

This picture anyhow is what I get at f1.4 @ 1/15 or 8.

The pic has not been sharpened, only colour corrected.

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O, by the way, chasing and running while doing photography is a guaranty for "problems".

Don't try this unless you are fully accustomed with your camera and even then do not expect every picture to be in focus and forget about avoiding motion blur.

Use it, love it, practice it!

 

Girl waiting for the bus: 21mm f 2.8 / 1 sec

Fast and wet dog: 32 mm ( dx sensor / Nikon d200 20-35 2.8 ) f 5.6 / 1/45 sec

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24 mm or less makes focusing not as important

 

Not quite sure I agree. I have an R24 and I find focus critical. The M24 should knock htre socks off the R24 so the issues are probably only going to be worse. Inside ten feet requires a lot of focus ring rotation. Outside fifteen feet yes you are right, markings get close together, depth of field sorts out a lot of problems in focus. Inside that I find depth of field doesnt save poor focus.

 

The following is not mine and maybe not a good example since it is a on someones m8 with sensor factor and all that, and also it was probably the photographers intention to limit the depth of field. But it does illustrate how specific focus is / can be, on the 24. So in a crowd...

 

Regards

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/people/29103-little-horsing-around.html

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Something you might find helpful, Dudak's Depth-of-Field Calculator Wont get into the nitty of circles of confusion and whether depth of field calcs are precise lens to lens, but it is worth looking at trends and the big things that affect of depth of field. You will find in practice, the most substantial factor governing depth of field for a given lens is not f stop, but focus distance.

 

Its a cool table this guy has created. Worth a squiz I reckon. Hope it helps.

 

Regards.

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