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Low light shooting techniques


Deliberate1

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Friends, I would be interested to hear what your strategies are for shooting the 006, or even the S2 and 007, in hand-held low-light circumstances. Coming from the M9, I was well aware of the inherent limitations posed by ISO settings that are best left below 800, unless, perhaps if the images will be monochrome. With the M9, and as I am learning with the S, one can set the ISO to the fastest acceptable level, say 800, then set the shutter speed so as to reflect hand-held shooting and set aperture to maximum. Images are likely to be underexposed, and substantially so. But given the quality and flexibility of S files, in particular, I find that I can push them in PP at least two stops, and sometimes more. That said, the effectiveness of this technique depends greatly on the nature of the image. I find that shadow detail will likely be non-existent or present with significant noise, which may be acceptable and even favored for B&W images.

Any other suggestions?

Cheers.

David

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I have nothing to add concerning technique, but I find that low light images look better dark, and I prefer leaving the shadows black, because thats how it looked! The "show all 15 steps of dynamic range" pictures look bizarre except in certain special circumstances. I regularly shoot at ISO 1600 in color with the (006). For example

 

35051250226_3cb53043d2_b.jpg

 

--Matt

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I usually go no higher than ISO 400 in camera. If necessary, I increase exposure in Lightroom. I also use two second delay to enable slower shutter speed. Of course, this will not work with moving subjects.

Jesse

 

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I happily use ISO 1.200 with my S2 no problem with current LR. 

 

S2 Contax 35mm f3.5 -  ISO 1200 f3.5  f3.5 1/60

 

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Depending on the subject and following up on Jesse's suggestion, I have to say that in low light situation I don't mind using my "landscape" setting, which besides being all manual it has a 2 sec delay and mirror lock up. In that way, I am able to shoot at 1/30sec with the S. The first time I did accidentally as I forgot to change the pre-settings, though I realized afterwards that by not having the mirror slamming I can use slower speeds. 

 

The viewfinder is darkened during those two seconds and a lot of things can happen in the meantime, but in those rare occasions that I am shooting at night with no tripod and no flash there are subjects that don't move much anyway (..buildings, citiscapes, etc.) and others that move too quickly anyway (people blinking eyes, changing expression, etc.). 

 

cheers,

lorenzo 

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Jesse, I assume this means you use a two second timer to give you that amount of time to brace/stabilize?

Good suggestion.

David

Yes. I am in Iceland, and will try to post an example when I return.

Jesse

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The 006 has a linear iso gain... meaning:

 

Shooting 1/125 ISO 100 F2.5 pushing 4 stops in Lightroom.

 

has the same effect as

 

Shooting 1/125 ISO 1600 F2.5 not pushing at all in Lightroom. 

 

Just don't forget that Lightroom increases noise reduction automatically for S006 files when higher ISO's are set, if you match these settings there is literally no difference between the two files.

 

Unlike the Leica M8/M9 that are better shot at ISO 160 and then pushed in Lightroom, the S006 files pushing in camera or in post production have the exact same effect. 

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Yes. I am in Iceland, and will try to post an example when I return.

Jesse

 

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S 006, 30mm

ISO 400, 1/30 second exposure

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