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Should I get M8 - and what WA lens?


NZDavid

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I realize there's some really useful info already on this site and elsewhere, so apologies if these issues have been discussed already, but I would greatly appreciate additional input. I'm heartened by the fact that others seem to agonize for months before buying! And the M8 is surely a significant investment for most people.

 

I'm a happy Leica M film user. I'm consider M8 only because, 1) for professional use, it would save money, and 2) one magazine still demands MF, and if not, then digital.

 

I was wondering about Ricoh's GRD for interiors, but that's too limiting for other work, and I'm not too sure about final file output. Technical quality is the key factor here!

 

I also quite liked the look of an Olympus SLR plus the 7 to 14 mm lens. But I really am a fan of the whole Leica rangefinder approach, especially its simplicity and straightforward operation. I'm hoping most early V1 issues have been resolved. I have only had a chance to look at one very briefly so far. My impressions: It seems fatter but lighter than the film M. LCD seems easy to smudge with your nose, especially held vertically (I tend to use to elbows next to body for stability, and release shutter with my thumb, but could tilt it the other way...not sure which is best.)

 

The big question is wide angle lenses: I have a 24 ASPH, a superb lens, which would become a 32. Sending it away to get digitized (I'm in New Zealand) would take a month or more, a real nuisance. Basic question: what happens if you use an uncoded lens?

 

But I'd need something wider. WATE versus Voigtländer 12 or 15. Does Voigtländer need to be coded? Would it be worth using with an ND filter to avoid vignetting? Just how much better is the WATE? It may be subjective, but I really do like Leica sparkle and clarity. "Zoom" may be a bonus, but changing lenses is not that taxing. Important: is there any barrel distortion with the WATE. I realize this can be corrected post-processing, but I'd far prefer to start with the best image possible, rather than relying on software; I just don't have that much time on fiddling with images onscreen.

 

Thank you for your patience and consideration.

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David, you mention interiors. Do you specialize in interior design photography? You also mention other work. In what other work do specialize? Question: Is most of your work hand-held or mounted on a tripod? If the latter, you have the option of extending your angle of view by stitching together multiple shots. There's some lateral thinking for you.

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Thanks Timothy. Yes, I do do some interior work and write about houses and architecture for magazines. (see my website, http://www.davidkillick.co.nz). I also do other stuff (landscapes, journalism) which keeps me pretty busy. I did a test of "simple" compact cameras for a real estate magazine. Kodak dual lens model has an in-camera stitching program which is quite cool. And some of the other stitching programs do seem quite nifty. I am not totally adverse to post-processing (essential for some shots) but, like I say, I would really prefer to minimize this. Thanks for the link.

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Here is what I have found so far: My M8 is working like a charm. Output quality is great. Handling is ... well, M handling. The stripped-down digital buttonery is well thought-out and covers all reasonable needs.

 

Coding is unnecessary (pace Leica) at focal lengths of 35mm and up. From 28mm down it does make a difference. I fail to see any significant difference in pictures taken with Leica-branded or B+W IR-cut filters. There may exist discernible differences under more or less laboratory conditions, but they keep within reasonable limits; there is no absolute truth in colour, as long as our own quirky and subjective perceptual system is part of it (colour constancy and all that).

 

If your lens recognition menu (under firmware v. 1.10) is set to 'on with IR cut filter' and you mount an uncoded lens, nothing untoward happens. The vignetting and colour corner correction software is simply not activated, but if it is a wide angle then you will have cyan cornering (see above) if you are using an IR-cut filter. And 'standard' (35mm) and longer lenses do not need them.

 

If your widest present lens is 24mm, then your 'wider' alternative should be either the 16 and 18mm settings of the WATE, if you can stomach Leica's finder offerings, or Cosina/Voigtländer's 15mm Super-Wide Helia if you cannot. This last is my choice. The lens is amazingly good both on the full format and on the M8. With the M8 you use it with a 21mm finder. As delivered, the lens has no filter thread and it is a screw-thread lens with a factory bayonet adapter which cannot be coded. But John Milich has developed a self-codeable bayonet adapter and a 39mm filter adapter (US$ 150 each) which I have on order. The alternative is to use the lens as is, which is fine as long as you do not have lots of black synthetic fabrics in the image – they can turn into a glorious ecclesiastical purple.

 

Take the plunge! The old man from the Age of the M3

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David, until the IR issue appeared, the lens coding looked strictly optional because the camera handles the sensor vignetting quite well without it. As soon as you put an IR filter on a 35mm and wider (50mm if you're picky), you will get some cyan which needs to be removed in camera using a coded lens or else Sandy's Cornerfix program.

 

The CV is exceptional value for money but if you want to code it, you will need one of John's adapters and a filter which will add more than 50% to the cost. The WATE is a fine lens and I have not found distortion a problem. It would be worth you looking at Sean Reid's site where he has a comparative review.

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Thanks Lars and Mark, links to Sandy's Cornerfix and John Milich's adapter would be helpful. Sean Reid's review might be worth checking out, too.

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Thanks Lars and Mark, links to Sandy's Cornerfix and John Milich's adapter would be helpful.

Corner Fix and JLM filter holder for CV15

 

I have the JLM screw adapter and it works faultlessly. The quality is excellent. Email him and he'll let you know about about pricing and availability for both the filter holder and screw adapter.

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......If your widest present lens is 24mm, then your 'wider' alternative should be either the 16 and 18mm settings of the WATE......

 

Or the Zeiss 18 mm; available soon - you will need a '24 mm' finder to use it.

 

.............Chris

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