Deliberate1 Posted January 21, 2017 Share #1 Posted January 21, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Friends, I have been shooting with my beloved S 006 for about 14 months now and have developed a shooting a technique that has worked well for me. But it is time that I expand the creative envelope by accessing the various exposure functions that remain a bit of a mystery to me. So what I typically do is to start with aperture priority. I will use the lens close to wide open if I am walking about and have in mind to isolate subjects, and maximize separation and freeze action with corresponding fast shutter speeds. And then I will adjust in M mode to taste. If I am shooting on a tripod, I will again start with aperture priority and then adjust the shutter speed in M as desired. I would appreciate any help on how you use the P or T settings and when. One thing I find odd and find inexplicable (to me) the apparent lack of equilibrium as I move the aperture wheel. For example, in A mode, at f2.5, the auto shutter speed reads 1/3s. It would make sense that as I stop down, the corresponding shutter speeds would increase to compensate for the reduction of light. But they don't. In A mode at f6.8 the corresponding shutter speed is 1/16s. At f13 it is 1/60s - all with static light. I must be missing something, but can not wrap my mind around it. And since I again only use the A settings as a "proof" and then move to M mode, I have never spent time pondering this. I appreciate any help, gents. Best, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 Hi Deliberate1, Take a look here M, A, T, P settings?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
pop Posted January 21, 2017 Share #2 Posted January 21, 2017 1/16 and 1/60 could be rounded to the closest entry on the scale. Are those the actual exposure times as stored in the EXIF or the proposed times shown in the camera display? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deliberate1 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share #3 Posted January 22, 2017 1/16 and 1/60 could be rounded to the closest entry on the scale. Are those the actual exposure times as stored in the EXIF or the proposed times shown in the camera display? Those are the data on the display. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted January 22, 2017 Share #4 Posted January 22, 2017 In that case I recommend looking at the actual EXIF data in an image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardC Posted January 22, 2017 Share #5 Posted January 22, 2017 In A mode at f6.8 the corresponding shutter speed is 1/16s. At f13 it is 1/60s That is correct. The difference between 6.8 and 13 is two stops. The difference between 1/16 and 1/60 is also two stops. These numbers are rounded for historical reasons. 1/60 is half of 1/30. 1/30th is considered half of 1/16 (which most cameras show as 1/15), which is half of 1/8. The aperture sequence progresses by the square root of 2 (rounded to 1.4), so multiplying by 2 is equal to two stops, not one. This may seem arbitrary, but it's based on geometry. The aperture is the ratio of the focal length (70mm for your Summarit) divided by the optical diameter of the lens (28mm in this case). Increasing the diameter by 1.4 times doubles the aperture area, doubling the amount of light going through the lens. That's why the aperture sequence goes 1.0, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, etc. Each number is 1.4 times the previous one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted January 22, 2017 Share #6 Posted January 22, 2017 I would avoid using P as it is just a calculated balance between speed and lens aperture that does not take into account the overall picture situation (ie. isolated face in crowd vs. all sharp landscape.) I think that you would benefit from a few lessons with a pro or attend ICP tutorials so as to refine your skills.. You have an incredible camera that has unlimited potential/ T is interesting but again I use it sparingly. I spend most of my time in A or M. Albert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Posted January 22, 2017 Share #7 Posted January 22, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Also keep in mind that moving one f/stop does not exactly match a movement of one full shutter speed in terms of light reaching the image plane because of lens vignetting, so the reciprocity relationship may not always hold. For example, if you set your exposure with the lens wide open, then close the lens down one stop, the meter will often recommend changing your shutter speed by less than a full stop. This is because lenses have less vignetting as you move away from maximum aperture. It's not an indication of a problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deliberate1 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share #8 Posted January 22, 2017 Thanks gents. I spent a bit more time this morning playing with the settings. I believe I now have a pretty good grasp on the T (shutter) priority setting. Go to P and then move the shutter speed dial which puts you in shutter priority. With each move, the aperture setting changes automatically to compensate for what the meter thinks is the right setting with a static shutter speed. Naturally, that is only a matter of electronic opinion. But I am still confused over the P setting that shows a small s below In that setting. As I move the aperture wheel, the readout shows a compensatory change in shutter speed. How is this different than shooting in A priority? It looks to me to be the same until you redirect the camera to another point of light intensity, at which point the "brain" takes over and reverts to some algorithm that tries to restore an exposure status adjusting both aperture and shutter speed independent of the aperture opening you designated, unlike A priority which changes only the shutter speed. As I wrap my mind around this, I guess that Ps is the full auto setting to shoot, but you can divert it by moving the aperture wheel. True? Obliged. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardC Posted January 22, 2017 Share #9 Posted January 22, 2017 David, Ps is program shift. The camera chooses both the aperture and shutter speed in Program. If you rotate the aperture wheel you can then shift the settings towards a higher speed and larger aperture in one direction, or a slower speed and smaller (higher number) aperture in the other direction. For instance, if the camera selects 1/250 at 5.6, and you want a higher speed to freeze subject movement, you can shift the program to 1/500 and 4.0. Going in the other direction will shift to 1/125 and 8.0, which will give you more depth of focus. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted January 22, 2017 Share #10 Posted January 22, 2017 Again, I encourage you to avoid P.... Albert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deliberate1 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share #11 Posted January 23, 2017 Again, I encourage you to avoid P.... Albert And I agree, now that I know what and why. Cheers. D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted January 23, 2017 Share #12 Posted January 23, 2017 Enjoy your camera! Albert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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