menos I M6 Posted February 4, 2010 Share #1461 Posted February 4, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks so much for your replies! Much appreciated. Thanks for the info on the matte black finish, didn't know that! I do love my 50mm with my Nikon, so I imagine I'd feel the same with it on a Leica! What are some other "general purpose" focal lengths to look out for? Maybe a 35mm? Pricewise, It'd be great if I could keep the body alone under $2000... Since I'm going used, this shouldn't be much for a problem. eBay seems to have some nice deals on the M3, M6 and MP. It's the lenses that'll take a big chunk of my change, hence why I can only afford to go with one at the start. What are the main differences between the M3, M6 and MP, from a technical standpoint? Will the quality of images differ greatly from one model to the next? I do appologize for all these silly questions! I'm very excited to dip my feet into film photography seriously. I've got a Nikon F75 for film stuff and an old Ricoh, but I know this is a totally different league- a league which I'm very anxious to start exploring! It's like I'm heading out on a whole new journey Thanks again, folks! The image quality will likely not differ between the cameras (that is the nice thing about old film bodies opposed to digital ;-) ). From a user standpoint these are the big differences: M3: - no internal meter - you have to meter your exposure with your eyes or with an additional light meter - widest frame visible is for a 50mm lens - anything wider needs an external viewfinder or the "goggles of older wide lenses (very cumbersome) M6: - internal meter - angled film rewind - arguable easier to rewind, but also easier to damage with rough handling MP: - same, same but different than the M6 - basically an M6 with the classic style film rewind knob, an upgraded viewfinder (less prone to finder flare in difficult light), nicer made external controls, brass top and bottom and reportedly tighter tolerances in production - 2 − 3 times the cost for a used body, compared to the M6 - exactly the same operation with meter, film advance, shutter speed as M6 There is also the Leica M7, which at the moment is placed in between used M6 and MP prices. It has an electronic shutter, added aperture priority auto exposure program (selects the shutter speed automatically) and goes for about 1200 − 1800 EUR used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 4, 2010 Posted February 4, 2010 Hi menos I M6, Take a look here I love my MP. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Xmas Posted February 4, 2010 Share #1462 Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) The image quality will likely not differ between the cameras (that is the nice thing about old film bodies opposed to digital ;-) ). From a user standpoint these are the big differences: M3: - no internal meter - you have to meter your exposure with your eyes or with an additional light meter - widest frame visible is for a 50mm lens - anything wider needs an external viewfinder or the "goggles of older wide lenses (very cumbersome) - the finder wont flare easily note The M3 has a near 1:1 finder which is easier to use both eyes open if you are right eyed, you still can use both eyes with the lower mangnification finders with practice. M2 - M3 with lower magnification finder but no flare comparable to M7 finder or M3 - 35m finder mask M6: - internal meter - angled film rewind - arguable easier to rewind, but also easier to damage with rough handling MP: - same, same but different than the M6 - basically an M6 with the classic style film rewind knob, an upgraded viewfinder (less prone to finder flare in difficult light), nicer made external controls, brass top and bottom and reportedly tighter tolerances in production - 2 − 3 times the cost for a used body, compared to the M6 - exactly the same operation with meter, film advance, shutter speed as M6 There is also the Leica M7, which at the moment is placed in between used M6 and MP prices. It has an electronic shutter, added aperture priority auto exposure program (selects the shutter speed automatically) and goes for about 1200 − 1800 EUR used. I use M2s most of time, cause it is rare that I don't use a 35mm, cant really use a 5cm, HCB used a 5cm, too hard for me. You can get an add on rewind crank for the MP or older M3, M2, except for the very early M3s, which dont have a location bush. Noel Edited February 4, 2010 by Xmas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdozier Posted February 4, 2010 Share #1463 Posted February 4, 2010 Niandra, The finder in the MP's is a bit better than the original finder on the M6 "classic", you can have the finder upgraded on the M6 easily enough. I got my M6 classic years ago, then later added one MP and then a second MP. FWIW, I still use the M6 right along side either MP and always will. If you can't find an MP within your budget you won't be disappointed with the M6. About the lens, I got a 50 'cron initially and quickly added a 35. If you are headed to Paris and want to shoot street as well as scenic I would recommend a 35. I personally think it's extremely flexible and forgiving with the wider view and I personally love that focal length on a Leica. Having said that, you really can't go wrong with a 50 either; I have and use both. For me there's enough difference between 35 and 50 that I find plenty of uses for both. In short, I don't think there's a wrong decision here. All the best. matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin Posted February 6, 2010 Share #1464 Posted February 6, 2010 ready for the next day Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrewer Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share #1465 Posted February 7, 2010 Ready, steady, Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
housefull Posted February 7, 2010 Share #1466 Posted February 7, 2010 I accept with information:I laughed so hard my daughter walked in the room and asked what was so funny!! Thank you for the smile and for being such a great PM friend to me!! I'm so grateful for all your support and friendship... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedro Posted February 7, 2010 Share #1467 Posted February 7, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_n Posted February 8, 2010 Share #1468 Posted February 8, 2010 Very nice Pedro. Griptac? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dk_samurai Posted February 8, 2010 Share #1469 Posted February 8, 2010 Very nice Pedro. Griptac? Looks like the standard "shark skin" cover, no? /David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedro Posted February 8, 2010 Share #1470 Posted February 8, 2010 It's the standard cover. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digiuser Posted February 8, 2010 Share #1471 Posted February 8, 2010 It's the standard cover. In Germany we call it "Dachpappe" = roofing paper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dk_samurai Posted February 8, 2010 Share #1472 Posted February 8, 2010 Does anybody have experience using both the "shark skin" (aka. roofing paper) and the traditional vulcanite? I'm curious as to which one of the two would provide the best grip surface? I know griptac would be best, but what about between vulcanite and shark skin?? /David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antistatic Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1473 Posted February 9, 2010 Vulcanite > Shark Skin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digiuser Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1474 Posted February 9, 2010 I use both the covers "Dachpappe" and Vulcanite. If new the grip of Dachpappe is better than Vulcanite but becomes a bit slippery after years of use. The grip of Vulcanite stays the same over the years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducttape Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1475 Posted February 9, 2010 I have 3003211. And I love it dearly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_n Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1476 Posted February 9, 2010 It's the standard cover.Oops. My bad. Does anybody have experience using both the "shark skin" (aka. roofing paper) and the traditional vulcanite? I'm curious as to which one of the two would provide the best grip surface? I know griptac would be best, but what about between vulcanite and shark skin??I use an MP3 which has the modern vulcanite and also an MP. IMO the vulcanite had a better grip than the standard MP covering, but I hated the dachpappe and got the MP covered in Griptac. If I ever wear the cover out on the MP3 I'll put Griptac on that too. Leica should seriously consider putting Griptac on their bodies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dk_samurai Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1477 Posted February 9, 2010 Thanks all for your replies reg. the vulcanite vs. shark skin! I'll likely switch ol' sharky to vulcanite the day my MP needs servicing. /David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RITskellar Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1478 Posted February 9, 2010 Thanks all for your replies reg. the vulcanite vs. shark skin! I'll likely switch ol' sharky to vulcanite the day my MP needs servicing. /David Yes, the current Leica vulcanit provides better grip than the standard Leica MP sharkskin, and I happen to think it is far more attractive than either the sharkskin or griptac. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
el.nino Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1479 Posted February 9, 2010 Yes, the current Leica vulcanit provides better grip than the standard Leica MP sharkskin, and I happen to think it is far more attractive than either the sharkskin or griptac. I was about to get my sharkskin replaced with the pseudo-vulcanit, but after a lot of thinking i decided to keep the sharkskin. looks way more elegant. the vulcanit looks kinda dull to me, like shiney black plastic (actually that's what it is). but i like the old original vulcanit which is by far not as shiney. please don't beat me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philippe D. Posted February 9, 2010 Share #1480 Posted February 9, 2010 Please, don't call it "sharkskin". Try first the feeling of the real sharkskin vulcanit on a Leica IIIc, you'll then know the big difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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