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Using SL with just M lenses?


rafikiphoto

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It's very easy, so no special text needed.

Buy the original  M to L adapter - it will handle 6bit codes automatically for you.

 

After attaching the adapter plus lens, the camera automatically offers you A mode. And with the joystick you can switch to zoom mode (press it once).

Then start taking pictures.    :)     

 

To give you a better feeling, read (again) the field report of Jono Slack.  (http://www.slack.co.uk/2015/The_Leica_SL.html)

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It's very easy, so no special text needed.

Buy the original  M to L adapter - it will handle 6bit codes automatically for you.

 

After attaching the adapter plus lens, the camera automatically offers you A mode. And with the joystick you can switch to zoom mode (press it once).

Then start taking pictures.    :)     

 

To give you a better feeling, read (again) the field report of Jono Slack.  (http://www.slack.co.uk/2015/The_Leica_SL.html)

Hi!

I agree 100% with "SteppenWolf"!

I am very happy with M Apo 50 f2 with my gear Leica SL 061 & SL 24-90 ASPH!

Have a nice day!

Thanks!

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It will simply take the photo and you will see the result. (no warning)

You can see the shutter speed in the finder. And you can use exposure preview to get an idea what you will get.

With M glass it works (exactly) like the M240/246 .

 

When autoISO is on you can enter a limit to the shutter speed (e.g. 1/focal length or 1/2x focal length, or a fixed value like e.g. 1/30th) It will then ramp up ISO to avoid getting over this limit. This is maybe what you are looking for. I do not know if there is a warning if it reaches the top. You can also choose a top ISO value. e.g. 6400.

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With a Noctilux will it warn you if your shutter speed is to slow

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

It will simply take the photo and you will see the result. (no warning)

You can see the shutter speed in the finder. And you can use exposure preview to get an idea what you will get.

With M glass it works (exactly) like the M240/246 .

 

When autoISO is on you can enter a limit to the shutter speed (e.g. 1/focal length or 1/2x focal length, or a fixed value like e.g. 1/30th) It will then ramp up ISO to avoid getting over this limit. This is maybe what you are looking for. I do not know if there is a warning if it reaches the top. You can also choose a top ISO value. e.g. 6400.

 

 

With fixed ISO and aperture priority exposure, the 'warning' you have is to keep an eye on the shutter time readout. You up the ISO setting to compensate, or open up the aperture, etc. 

 

With AutoISO and aperture priority exposure, there is no warning if the maximum time setting in your AutoISO configuration is reached, it's reached the upper limit of the ISO range, and the resulting setting will create an underexposure capture: the SL will simply make the capture and underexpose it. The EVF will not reflect the underexposure until it is WAY WAY under due to its compensation capability.

 

This latter behavior is one of the few SL annoyances to me—most other cameras either do something about warning you "I'm about to underexpose this photo!" or auto-extend the shutter time to compensate (often with an option to enable/disable the 'long exposure' override behavior). I have lost many photos to this behavior because I have found that I can often hand-hold the camera just a stop or two longer than the usual rule of thumb would permit, and the only way to do that is with fixed ISO rather than AutoISO. This cuts down on the usability of AutoISO by a lot, for me; I tend to operate the camera in fixed ISO mode most of the time as a result.

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Marren

I was really meaning if on a bright sunny day and you are shooting wide open with ISO at say 50 will it warn you to stop down all there is to much light.........sorry my initial post doesn't explain that correctly.

 

Neil

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The fastest shutter speed is 1/16000 . So you do not need to stop down very often at ISO50, because of too much light.

With aperture 1.0 (to make it simpler) you need EV14 for 1/16000 of a second - I think it is at ISO 100.

So EV15 needed for ISO 50. (Maybe I am wrong, so correct me if it is not true.)

Where I live (Switzerland) we encounter that only in the mountains in bright white snow (really fresh clean snow) at noon and with full sunshine.

If you take many pictures at the beach (white sand) or photos of white bleached houses at noon you are likely to get higher EVs.

But not on many other occasions.

 

That's one more reason why the SL is made for the Noctilux (or vice versa).

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

The fastest shutter speed is 1/16000 . So you do not need to stop down very often at ISO50, because of too much light.

With aperture 1.0 (to make it simpler) you need EV14 for 1/16000 of a second - I think it is at ISO 100.

So EV15 needed for ISO 50. (Maybe I am wrong, so correct me if it is not true.)

Where I live (Switzerland) we encounter that only in the mountains in bright white snow (really fresh clean snow) at noon and with full sunshine.

If you take many pictures at the beach (white sand) or photos of white bleached houses at noon you are likely to get higher EVs.

But not on many other occasions.

 

That's one more reason why the SL is made for the Noctilux (or vice versa).

 

Thanks Stephen........

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