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Noctilux f/1.0 with the M240 - some observations


Herr Barnack

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Interesting article overall, but his experiences with the Noctilux f/1.0 on the M240 do not exactly mirror mine.  Perhaps this is due to different ways of using the Noctilux?  Or different styles of shooting? 

 

I'm wondering how the experiences of others who use the f/1.0 Noctilux on the M240 compare to Messr. Ashley's experiences...

 

 

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...What is and isn't acceptable for colour shooting will vary from photographer to photographer but for me, if I want acceptable colour accuracy from the lens, F5.6 or F8 is required...

I have not encountered this with my particular copy of the f/1 Noctilux.  I do not think that variations in individual taste is an explanation; my intent is and always has been color fidelity.

 

 

...The shots also show the extent of the vignetting, which again does not clear until F8 and which has a characteristic sharp edge, making it hard to correct...

The vignetting that my lens produces is gone by f/4.5; to use neutral density terminology to describe it, I would call it a soft step vignetting rather than a hard step vignetting which the author seems to be describing.

 

 

...1.  F4 and F5.6 appear superficially to have tightened up but closer examination shows that there is still notable midfield weakness. This is still visible to the careful eye even at F8...

I do not see this midfield weakness with my copy at f/4 to f/8 as does the author.  I have to wonder if he is seeing this at extreme magnification or at normal viewing magnification.  I am not given to pixel peeping, so that may account for the difference.

 

 

...F8 is the first aperture at which the lens should be considered capable of a more 'technical' performance but the midfield weakness doesn't really clean up to my standards until F11...

My copy cleans up noticeably by f/4.5; that having been said, it may be that the author is attempting to measure the Noctilux by the same yardstick one would apply to the 50 Summilux ASPH.  From where I sit, that is along the lines of comparing apples to oranges. 

 

The author also addresses focus shift at close range, which the f/1 Noctilux is more or less known for.  I cannot comment on this issue, as the majority of my shooting with my lens seems to happen at middle distances rather than close up.  I recall reading in one of Erwin Puts' commentaries on the f/1 Noctilux that distances of 2-6 meters are where the lens excels;  given the subject matter and the environments that I work most with, I would say that the majority of my work with the Noctilux seems to fall within this sweet spot.

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Carlos, I pretty much agree with you.

I am afraid Tim is a bit too picky, or he got a lemon.

 

The obvious defects of the lens are strong vignetting, focus-shift, coma and bluish longitudinal CA wide open, and some visible lateral CA that is easily corrected with Lightroom.

I can see a really faint color-shift only comparing his shots at different apertures on the grey card. Anyways, that is not a defect of the lens, but of the M240 sensor. I don't understand why he needs "color accuracy", and in any case there are much better lenses than the Noctilux for color accuracy (not only talking about color-vignetting here).

 

To evaluate sharpness, you need to display the image at 1:1 pxel magnification.

My copy is surprisingly good at f/1 in the center (have seen much worse copies), very good at f/2.8, and quite sharp overall at f/5.6. But I have not checked for mid-field weakness because I don't use the Noctilux for landscapes (though I wouldn't hesitate if it was the only lens in the bag).

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I can't understand why, but it seems to be a crap shoot with the f/1 Noctilux, especially on the M240 cameras.  I have read of people having fits with back focus but for some reason, my M-P and f/1 work together like they were made for each other.  I am very fortunate in that regard.

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I have read of people having fits with back focus but for some reason, my M-P and f/1 work together like they were made for each other.

 

The f/1 has a strong back-focus by design. It is not a problem of individual copies.

The important thing is to perfectly calibrate for the RF to nail focus wide open, otherwise the lens is quite unusable.

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