21mm vs 24mm Summilux subject isolation

[mdg1371]

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I am currently on the fence about which of these lenses to add to my lineup-- trying to decide which lens might better suit a 3 lens low light/ minimal DOF set.

 

I tend to divide my lenses into groups-- travel kit, smallest possible kit, highest resolution kit, etc., generally 3 lenses, a 50, a short tele, and a 21mm (ish).

 

For low light/minimal DOF, Ive been shooting with a Noctilux f0.95 and an adapted Canon 85mm f1.2 FD lens.

 

My thought process for the wide angle lens is leaning toward emphasizing greater subject isolation over wider field of view-- (I dont think I would be shooting much architecture at f1.4, and I feel a bit like the 24mm doesnt stretch subjects at the edges), but I'm not sure how significant the difference between the 21mm and 24mm in terms of subject isolation are in real world shooting. You can check DOF tables all you want, but it doesnt really paint a picture.

 

I have the 35mm Summilux ASPH FLE, but that does not feel wide enough

 

Any thoughts from users of either or both lenses?

 

Anything I may not be considering?

[Rick]

There isn't as much difference in subject isolation between 21mm and 24mm at 1.4 as there is perspective differences between the FL of those lenses.  I would chose which of the two FL interests you most. 

 

Speaking for myself, wider FL lenses are more about unique perspective and creating interest in the subjects (objects) placement within the frame, and less about isolation.  For this reason I rarely, if ever, shoot below 5.6.  

 

Rick

[NB23]

Subject isolation? Composition: composition: composition!

 

Compodition wins every time.

 

Wide angle lenses do not offer shallow dof anyway.

[Winedemonium]

I have tested the 24, and I own the 21 Lux.

 

My experience with it is that I need a LOT more practice to get good results from it. The lens is fine, and for a human subject in 0.7~1m range, separation from background can be quite pronounced at f/1.4, and is one of the unique properties of this lens. But if your subject is moving, and you are busy trying to get the plane of focus at 1.4 just right, getting composition right at the same time is a challenge. So many more elements have to be relevant for inclusion and arrangement in the frame, and perspective distortion can be dramatic even with a small tilt of the camera up, down, left, right. In my case I have not yet succeeded to get all of these considerations right all at once in the same shot. Significantly easier at 24mm.

 

Where 21mm and 1.4 becomes interesting I think is still life or landscape, where you have time to get composition right, and narrow DOF can enhance a feeling with a good framing of elements.

 

But for a human subject, even at 0.7m you will have a lot of other stuff in the frame to consider, and 1.4 will only help so far.