dkCambridgeshire Posted January 16, 2016 Share #1 Posted January 16, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/255668-the-young-stargazer/?p=2969773 Note 'focusing in total darkness' comment. Also use the same technique with the X Vario … http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/228552-leica-xv-tool-camera/?hl=tool+camera … but the X1 and X2 are more pocketable and their faster lens helps … but the XV's better high ISO capability compensates for its slower lens. dunk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 16, 2016 Posted January 16, 2016 Hi dkCambridgeshire, Take a look here Leica X2 and XV - 'Tool cameras'. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
JOM51 Posted January 17, 2016 Share #2 Posted January 17, 2016 in total darkness I always use manual focus, easy to use and very effective. In the old days we always had to manual focus!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkCambridgeshire Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted January 17, 2016 in total darkness I always use manual focus, easy to use and very effective. In the old days we always had to manual focus!!! I am photographing in a field in almost absolute darkness. Very little is visible because astronomers work in total darkness apart from their small red torches. Regular 'night photographers' do not photograph in total darkness - they usually have illuminated subjects to focus on and compose with e.g. street lights, illuminated signs, floodlit buildings or car headlights / tail lights … all illuminated subjects enabling good composition. I have tried manual focus for photographing astronomers in action using my Leica T and a 35mm Summicron R - plus the red flash. Some good results were obtained with preset focus - but with the X1 and X2 and XV, the 'hit rate' where focus and composition was 'nailed' was much better. With the 35/2 R lens it was impossible to focus in the camera's Viso or on the monitor because there is almost NIL ambient light. At a star party where there is hardly any ambient light everything is much more difficult as regards composition. At star parties composition can be very 'hit and miss' and we cannot use regular flash or continuous artificial light - doing so would compromise observers' night vision. I can only use a relatively dim red filtered flash with the camera set to high ISO and B&W mode. The X1 / XV's red focus assist beam is the only illumination I can use to assist composition - unless I employ an assistant with a red torch. Few people really appreciate how dark it is at astro star parties - it's very different from night-time street photography where there is usually some artificial lighting /ambient light. Star parties are arranged in dark fields - we seldom observe in moonlight because even moonlight upsets observers' night vision and compromises views of the stars and nebulae. Sometimes we observe and photograph the moon but when we do we use filters - partly because the moon is too bright. In theory I might be able to take photographs at ultra-high ISO without using the red flash - if I used a Leica Q or a Leica SL - but whether such high ISO would be sufficient to enable fast enough shutter speeds to freeze any action i.e. observers walking around / adjusting their 'scopes is doubtful. If and when I decide to acquire or borrow an SL I will find out; I have no plans to buy a Q. dunk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOM51 Posted February 26, 2016 Share #4 Posted February 26, 2016 What I meant by using manual focus on the X1 or X2 is estimating the distance to the subject and setting the focus manually to that distance (using the green bar moving under the distance scale). That is what we did before we had rangefinders. It works in total darkness, and I use an optical viewfinder for composition, all very old-fashioned but it works in total darkness. I also use the same technique on the Xvario, it works perfectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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