going mad..

[nerve]

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after Sean Reid's advice, i bought a LTM adapter for my 28 mm. Ultron lens, but still cant do the coding!! i have tried all of these permanent markers, enamel white nail polish, white corrector fluids and all..(we dont have "sharpies" in this part of the world! ..) ,simply doesnt work!

 

Am i missing something?? what kind of paintings or markers should i use for these codings?? do i need a white permanent marker as well??

 

going mad here, any suggestion please??

[wattsy]

Is it the right LTM adaptor for the lens focal length? The M8 apparently uses both the code and lens selection lever position to determine the lens being used.

[carstenw]

Most pens I tried didn't work. You really need a non-reflective one, and this can make all the difference. Do you have access to the Edding 8400?

 

If you have one coded lens, then there is a very accurate way to code: paint little marks on the edge of the coded lens, in the middle of each of the 6 little coded blobs. Put the lens on the camera, and carefully make corresponding marks on the edge of the camera's bayonet. Now put on the uncoded lens, and transfer the marks once more to the edge of the lens. Finally, take the lens off, and transfer the marks from the edge to the bayonet mount of the lens. These should be very accurate now. If there are screwholes in the way, you must fill them completely with whiteout first, and then code on top.

[elansprint72]

 

Am i missing something?

 

 

Yes, you are missing the M8 forum- why not post this query there.

[nerve]

Yes, you are missing the M8 forum- why not post this query there.

 

thanks a lot Pete, couldnt realize!..

[nerve]

Is it the right LTM adaptor for the lens focal length? The M8 apparently uses both the code and lens selection lever position to determine the lens being used.

 

yes, it is 9 cm type i think..i asked for an adapter for my Ultron in the first place!

 

thanks.

[nerve]

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Most pens I tried didn't work. You really need a non-reflective one, and this can make all the difference. Do you have access to the Edding 8400?

 

If you have one coded lens, then there is a very accurate way to code: paint little marks on the edge of the coded lens, in the middle of each of the 6 little coded blobs. Put the lens on the camera, and carefully make corresponding marks on the edge of the camera's bayonet. Now put on the uncoded lens, and transfer the marks once more to the edge of the lens. Finally, take the lens off, and transfer the marks from the edge to the bayonet mount of the lens. These should be very accurate now. If there are screwholes in the way, you must fill them completely with whiteout first, and then code on top.

 

thanks a lot Carsten, i'll try again, LTM adapter is the one thats already drilled with the right holes on it, but maybe wrong, dunno, ill see..

 

best wishes!

[barjohn]

I use black nail polish and white nail polish. The two were hard to find but thank goodness girls are nuts! Another solution would be to go to a hobby shop where they sell model airplanes. You should be able to get a full range of laquer paints including a matte black if needed (shiney works for me).

[nerve]

I use black nail polish and white nail polish. ).

 

which brand is that, can i ask John?

 

thanks and bw.

[pete_g]

after Sean Reid's advice, i bought a LTM adapter for my 28 mm. Ultron lens, but still cant do the coding!! i have tried all of these permanent markers, enamel white nail polish, white corrector fluids and all..(we dont have "sharpies" in this part of the world! ..) ,simply doesnt work!

 

Am i missing something?? what kind of paintings or markers should i use for these codings?? do i need a white permanent marker as well??

 

going mad here, any suggestion please??

 

 

There's nothing special about Sharpies, they're just spirit based black fibre tipped pens, the UK equivalents are Pentels or others, the Sharpie just has a smaller, sharper point.

[woodyspedden]

There's nothing special about Sharpies, they're just spirit based black fibre tipped pens, the UK equivalents are Pentels or others, the Sharpie just has a smaller, sharper point.

 

My experience is to simply use the black nail gloss on those pits which require black. So on the 15 4.5 there is only one pit that is required to be black, all the others remain at the color of the base metal. Voila........no problems. When the camera booted up all it wanted to know was what focal length I wanted to use with the WATE. Picked 16 and off we go. Coulldn't be simpler

 

Woody

[barjohn]

which brand is that, can i ask John?

 

thanks and bw.

 

Here is the brand I found in my local RiteAid drug store:

 

Boundless Color #610 Midnight Magic

Boundless color #500 White Night

 

Enjoy!

[sean_reid]

Just to clarify:

 

1) You're using a 9 cm LT-M8 adapter that brings up the 28/90 frame lines?

2) You're filling the wells with paint (enamel nail polish)?

3) The code you are using is____________?

 

Step us through the details and I imagine we can get you sorted out. If everything is in order, the adapters should work just fine. Perhaps a picture of your painted adapter would be good to post.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

[marknorton]

This is what I use... flat/matt black paint. Micro-Tools is an Aladdin's Cave for this sort of stuff...

 

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=PAI

[nerve]

Here is the brand I found in my local RiteAid drug store:

 

Boundless Color #610 Midnight Magic

Boundless color #500 White Night

 

Enjoy!

 

thank you very much John, much appreciated!

[nerve]

Just to clarify:

 

1) You're using a 9 cm LT-M8 adapter that brings up the 28/90 frame lines?

2) You're filling the wells with paint (enamel nail polish)?

3) The code you are using is____________?

 

Step us through the details and I imagine we can get you sorted out. If everything is in order, the adapters should work just fine. Perhaps a picture of your painted adapter would be good to post.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

 

 

Hi Sean,

 

1.yes, it brings 28/90 frame lines. (i bought the 9 cm one)

2.for the wells, i tried to use permanent markers, couldnt find a black polish yet in New Delhi, ladies dont use black colours here unfortunately!

i used white nail polish with a tootpick for the other wells as white..

3. i am trying to code my Ultron as 28 ASPH Elmarit one,

 

so, do i have to fill them in with enamel paint, is this necessary? sharpie or other type of permanent markers wont work for the these wells?

 

thanks for your help, cheers.

[nerve]

This is what I use... flat/matt black paint. Micro-Tools is an Aladdin's Cave for this sort of stuff...

 

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=PAI

 

 

thank you very much Mark, thats helpful!!

 

best wishes.

[johnfriar]

As far as I can gather, there is no need to mark the white positions. The camera interprets white and silver as the same thing and is only looking for black. I've used a permanent overhead projector marker with some success on a ZM 28 and 50. On the 50, it's one mark that makes it quite simple. On the 28, it's 3 marks but they're consecutive so I simply draw a bar and don't worry about the spaces between the marks.

 

John

[sean_reid]

Hi Sean,

 

1.yes, it brings 28/90 frame lines. (i bought the 9 cm one)

2.for the wells, i tried to use permanent markers, couldnt find a black polish yet in New Delhi, ladies dont use black colours here unfortunately!

i used white nail polish with a tootpick for the other wells as white..

3. i am trying to code my Ultron as 28 ASPH Elmarit one,

 

so, do i have to fill them in with enamel paint, is this necessary? sharpie or other type of permanent markers wont work for the these wells?

 

thanks for your help, cheers.

 

What's worked for me, and I have painted a lot of adapters so far, is the following:

 

1. Use a toothpick to fill the first well with enamel paint (fingernail polish works fine and is what I use). It should be filled completely.

 

2. Use the edge of an old credit card to scrape away any wet paint that may have spilled beyond the well. Sweep from the inside out towards the edge. There should be no paint left outside the wells themselves.

 

3. Repeat this with the second well and so on for all six wells.

 

Using this method, every adapter I've painted has worked perfectly. BTW, Reid Reviews does not recommend any of this - I'm just speaking as Sean Reid, ordinary Joe. Proceed at your own risk, etc.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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Hallo,

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[nerve]

What's worked for me, and I have painted a lot of adapters so far, is the following:

 

1. Use a toothpick to fill the first well with enamel paint (fingernail polish works fine and is what I use). It should be filled completely.

 

2. Use the edge of an old credit card to scrape away any wet paint that may have spilled beyond the well. Sweep from the inside out towards the edge. There should be no paint left outside the wells themselves.

 

3. Repeat this with the second well and so on for all six wells.

 

Using this method, every adapter I've painted has worked perfectly. BTW, Reid Reviews does not recommend any of this - I'm just speaking as Sean Reid, ordinary Joe. Proceed at your own risk, etc.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

 

Thanks, ill try it: as a 28 Elmarit code it goes like white, black,black,black,white,white i guess.. hope i am doing right?!,

 

Yes, i know, this is an ordinary Joe as a person!

but thanks anyway!!

 

cheers.