DirkR440 Posted October 19, 2015 Share #1 Posted October 19, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I recently bought my Leica MP and I'm very happy with it. Does anybody have some experience about how to use the Leica MP (or any other Film M) with a flash? I quiet new to film photography so I'm just wondering what would be the best way for that? Currently I have a SF58 flash. Dirk Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 19, 2015 Posted October 19, 2015 Hi DirkR440, Take a look here Leica MP with flash?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Steve Ash Posted October 19, 2015 Share #2 Posted October 19, 2015 The best film M for flash is the M7as you can utilize HSS. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M9reno Posted October 19, 2015 Share #3 Posted October 19, 2015 Your MP will work fine with the SF58, as long as you are happy with full-manual operation. Keep sync-speeds at 50 or lower, and calculate your aperture by dividing the guide number of the flash (58 at ISO 100) by the distance to your target. Or just read the aperture suggested on the flash display. Depending on how strong a flash effect you want, or ambient light, play around with opening a little more or less. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
madNbad Posted October 20, 2015 Share #4 Posted October 20, 2015 MP X sync is 1/50th (the lighting bolt), pick an aperture then set the flash on Auto to correspond with the selected f stop. A test roll would be in order before embarking on any serious work. Nice flash, have fun with it. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted October 20, 2015 Share #5 Posted October 20, 2015 I usually bounce the flash off the ceiling, opening my diaphragm 1-2 stops for more even distribution and softness of light. Actually you can use almost any flash unit made in the last 60 yrs or so. I prefer ones with the thyrister auto function...it takes the bounce into account automatically. I keep a shoe mounted flash handy, but much prefer a Metz hammerhead. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
piblondin Posted October 22, 2015 Share #6 Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) What settings should be used with the SF-20 indoors with ISO 400 film? E.g. does one need to meter? Edited October 22, 2015 by piblondin Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted October 22, 2015 Share #7 Posted October 22, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) What settings should be used with the SF-20 indoors with ISO 400 film? E.g. does one need to meter? Not as such if you use the flash in auto-mode. However, you still need to bear in mind the 'metering' area of the flash (which will be wider than the fat-spot metering of the MP that you may be used to) and limitations such as the minimum output level of the flash. The latter you may run into with ISO 400 film if you get too close to your subject. You should also consider the balance of ambient light exposure and the flash light exposure to avoid too much of a "flash" look. For the latter, remember that the ambient exposure is controlled by the shutter speed and the flash exposure is controlled by the aperture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR440 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted November 29, 2015 Hi, is there any change to use some gear to put the flash on the side of the MP, like it is possible with SCA adapter set for the M 240? http://us.leica-camera.com/Photography/Leica-M/Technical-Equipment/Flash-Units/SCA-adapter-set-for-mulitfunctional-handgrip-M Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotoklaus Posted November 29, 2015 Share #9 Posted November 29, 2015 Due to the fact, that the MP doesn't have TTL-flash-metering and you have to set the flash in Auto-Mode anyway, you can use any flash-bracket and use a PC-Sync-cable. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
semi-ambivalent Posted November 29, 2015 Share #10 Posted November 29, 2015 Actually you can use almost any flash unit made in the last 60 yrs or so. This almost is very important. The trigger voltage of, e.g., a Vivitar 283 (which are still everywhere) can be on the order of 500 volts. The M3 grew up in that era and should be fine with that because the amps are low. I'd test right now but don't have that corny adapter the M3 requires. In modern times I believe those thyrister circuits fixed all that. s-a Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR440 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted November 29, 2015 Due to the fact, that the MP doesn't have TTL-flash-metering and you have to set the flash in Auto-Mode anyway, you can use any flash-bracket and use a PC-Sync-cable. Do you have any recommendation for one that looks like the SCA Adapter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotoklaus Posted November 30, 2015 Share #12 Posted November 30, 2015 Anything like this: http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/de/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=1000 And a PC-Sync-Cable with an Hotshoe- Adaptor http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/de/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=1301 Or just a PC- Sync- Cable, if your flash has a PC- Socket. Then you don´t need the hotshoe adaptor, of course 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR440 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted November 30, 2015 Anything like this: http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/de/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=1000 And a PC-Sync-Cable with an Hotshoe- Adaptor http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/de/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=1301 Or just a PC- Sync- Cable, if your flash has a PC- Socket. Then you don´t need the hotshoe adaptor, of course Thank a lot! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted November 30, 2015 Share #14 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) I'd suggest (since this isn't digital and you don't get 20 test shots to decide) that you spend $150.00 and buy a hand held incident meter. That will allow you to know instantly what your flash should be set on (be it on camera or off) and what you can or want to set your camera settings on.For digital I'd recommend it, for film? It's a must...most certainly a really valuable investment.Beyond that, your camera will do a great job with on camera flash or triggers and off camera flash. As other folks have said, set the shutter speed to the lightning bolt and go for it. I never shoot on-camera flash directly at the subject..it looks horrible. Either bounce it to the side from the hot shoe or put the flash in a modifier and get it off camera. Edited November 30, 2015 by rpavich Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR440 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted November 30, 2015 I did some testing recently with the SP58 flash in auto mode on top of the MP. The flash was in a 45 degree through the ceiling. The results are kind of ok (see example below), but I'm really looking forward how it will look like with the flash on the side. Me on film by Dirk Raffel, auf Flickr Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted November 30, 2015 Share #16 Posted November 30, 2015 I did some testing recently with the SP58 flash in auto mode on top of the MP. The flash was in a 45 degree through the ceiling. The results are kind of ok (see example below), but I'm really looking forward how it will look like with the flash on the side. Me on film by Dirk Raffel, auf Flickr You're right, it's "ok" which is to say it could be improved. Would you mind if I made a suggestion? Meter for the ambient light and figure out what that is. Then drop the exposure about 1.5 to 2 stops. That will give the "shadow side" exposure. Then when you flash, it should be the key/dominant light that's 1.5 stops brighter than the shadow side. Folks just look better with a nice shadow/highlight transition instead of a single amount of light; it's flat that way. Anyway...no it's not bad or anything but it could be improved. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotoklaus Posted December 1, 2015 Share #17 Posted December 1, 2015 What should be different, if the flash sits 10 cenimeters on the left and not 10 centimeters on top? Then you will need a huge flash-bracket to mount the flash about 30 centimeters on the side or on top to see a difference. And if you want perfect lit images, you have to buy two additional flashes and rfelectors/ softboxes and trigger them by radiocontrol. But then I´ll go for a medium-format camera to get negs worth the afford. Leica M is always compact and handy to go everywhere for me. So If i ever use a flash with an M, I take a small one, put it on the hotshoe and thats ist. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted December 1, 2015 Share #18 Posted December 1, 2015 Hand-held, using a cord is a fairly cheap, simple, and effective way of getting off-camera flash to see if it is what you want. I use radio triggers (Canon, Pocket Wizard, and Yongnuo triggers) on my other cameras, but the simplicity of the M is something I treasure, and haven't required flash with them so far. Not that there's anything wrong with it - just not required in my current usage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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