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ICE or no ICE


rob_x2004

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If your negs are clean or there is only minor spotting from dust from the environment, what are your thoughts on leaving ICE off.

 

The scans without ICE seem a little more alive to me, though it isnt something that greatly transfers through to an edited or a resampled and resized web posted image.

 

Not being a mathamatical genius I dont know the algorithms used to handle the feature but I figure if some evil little thing is put there to pick up exptreme contrast changes to the flat highlights of dust specs, then some transitional areas of contrast in the remainder of the undusty parts of the neg must be affected.

 

Anyone come up with anything round the traps other than just the blurb?

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Guest Metroman

Rob I go without. The Nikon Coolscan came with Nikon Scan 4 and it took me awhile to realise that Ice was enabled by default. It also comes with ROC, GEM and Digital DEE :confused: WIll probably make sarnies and tea if I could find the button.

 

I am scanning and archiving my fathers colour slides and negs from the 50's and 60's and someone recommended Vuescan and to just get a good scan for your needs and sort any probs in PS etc.

 

I keep it simple working on the theory that too much interference from software takes away my control of the process and makes things too complicated.

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when I first got my 8000ED I did quite a bit of back to back comparisons and decided that I couldnt see much difference with/without ICE.

That was a few years ago, and maybe with the benefit of experience I would draw a different conclusion today, but it doesnt take much dust to make the whole scanning experience so painful that I stick to using ICE anyway.

I just had a spate of using B&W film, and spotting the scans is getting v.boring...

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Im still a bit am pm about vuescan and silverfast. I figure the scanner scans and that is it. I'm sure after market programs make the first step simpler for some and point you in a general direction and maybe they sit well in peoples workflow. I always get a laugh out of the comparisons on their sites, scan images from one software to the other. You can usually make one look like the other pretty quickly. It isnt till you use something for a while and get the hang of it that you find out what something is worth. I think I would like to use silverfast, but it might be a grass is always greener thing.

 

With regard to the quick fixes Ive got [ATTACH]38046[/ATTACH] in addition to curves contrast saturation brightness and heavens knows what. I have only ever had trouble with one frame where the default doesnt seem to be all that flash, while the corner store print slayed it.

 

My question was more along the lines of what these things do to the native scan file. I reckon I can see the difference with the thing switched on but I might also be dreaming. Dont know if anyone has info on what changes are imparted across the frame when you use these things.

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Practice the spot healing brush. err thanks, but I prefer not to need to :p

 

rob, if your not sure you can spot the difference, doesnt that tell you all you need to know about how much difference there is?

 

the link posted above says a bit about how ICE works, but I cant tell if whats going on is more or less invasive that spotting yourself in post, and since it saves loads of time and the detrimental effect is not so easy to quantify I'll continue to take the lazy option

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Ah well actually, to be concise, yes I can see the difference. Does it matter? I can turn a silverfast look alike into a vuescan lookalike into a kodachrome look into a fuji look so no I figure it doesnt matter. Pragmatic, I use ice when I need to, and sometimes I leave it off. I wonder what the John Meads think?

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I always use ICE with my 8000 for colour work and will continue to do so for the saving in spotting time. I find I can't see a big enough difference in quality to turn it off. Maybe, if I ever got an image worthy of it I'd go back to basics and do the spotting.

 

B&W is different and the images have to be spotted and whilst generally using the healing brush, I often use the Rubber stamp to secure 'real' pixels I can see, instead of using the healing brush algorithm.

 

As for scanner software, I use the Nikon software on the 8000 and Silverfast on my Epson. Silverfast is nice but is too expensive for the 8000. I've tried a Vuescan demo, but the interface seems somewhat primitive to me and the results were no better so I didn't continue with it. I've no idea why the Nikon software is out of favour with some, so perhaps someone could enlighten us?

 

Rolo

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A quick mask of what I want and a CTRL-C CTRL-V CTRL-v CTRL-R usually does it for me rather than someones idea of what heals. Other than that a pixel picker then the paint brush at round about 60% at one pixel. You quickly learn to identify colour casts and generally use slightly darker pixel to start with. I know its a long haul if you are stuck with photoshop but....I guess that is why they have to have plug ins.

 

Still not sure on the scanning software. No one seems to acknowlege the importance of printing software so I reckon gerneally we (can I use we generalisation) arent very switched on and I wonder what is being missed. Probably if you had the whole silverfast suite, then sure, scanning, printing...gee it costs but:(.

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Guest stnami

This is why the idle:) are using digital all the way, too hard basket for them. Then they waste thieir time trying to get a film look, mind you it's not too hard but requires thinking and doing stuff in a sequence just as with film. It takes time a bit more than pressing a couple of buttons called hope

Printing is a different ball game, but if you do it by trial and error it will probably cost as much as buying the software in the first place.............. still in the woods with this

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Rob, I don't use ICE unless I have scratched negs or slides. It seems to work best on old slides which have been sliding around in boxes for decades. There also appears to be a minute detrimental effect (when viewed with a magnifying glass) on sharpness.

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