Leica SF24D Flash

[rramesh]

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After a long time eschewing a flash, I finally purchased a Leica SF24D. This in spite of having an Olympus FL36 which I rarely used.

 

Since this is a TTL flash, I wanted to try it out on my M9-P but the manual seems rather antiquated as it predates digital Ms.

 

Question is this. If I set the flash to TTL, do I set the camera to 1/180 (flash symbol), to Auto, or does it really matter, as shouldn't it read the camera settings (it detects ISO on A setting) and measure ambient light TTL?

 

Is there an updated instruction somewhere in this forum for use of this flash on digital Ms, as I can't seem to find it?

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[pico]

Set the M9 to 1/180, and the SF 24D to TTL, select your preferred aperture and shoot away to get a feel for how it works. And it does work. It will tell you if the aperture will not work.

 

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[Richardgb]

I leave the M9 on A - no need to set 1/180.

 

Beware that TTL metering can be fooled by back-lit scenes (it underexposes the shadows you're trying to light). In these circumstances, 'A' is more reliable.

 

I've had 2 SF24s, the first was faulty (cause not revealed by Leica, but I suspect faulty sliding M/A/TTL selector). The second works fine, though it's now more used as back-up or alternative for SF58 when travelling light.

[menos I M6]

After a short while trying to get the SF24D to do what you want you will learn that it's TTL mode with the M is abysmal compared to how fast it works in A mode.

 

When you will have learned this, you will quickly find that the Olympus FL36 is a much more versatile flash on the M than the little 24.

 

I never use the TTL with my 24D as it's pre flash to flash interval is sooooo long, you could change lenses in between if you find you have the wrong one on the camera after pressing the shutter button.

 

I found that people simply blink when they are prepared to get a picture taken of them with this flash in TTL as they react on the pre-flash, perfectly captured in the actual exposure, while A works as it should.

 

Be careful with the shutter speed selected and the camera shooting in rear curtain flash mode.

For some reason digital M bodies do not sync @ 1/180 when shooting in rear curtain mode. This was not documented in the manuals when I last looked.

You simply have to shoot at slower speeds or disable rear curtain sync in the camera's menu.

 

Additional benefit from shooting this flash in A mode:

compensating flash output on the fly is super easy with just a adjusting the aperture when wanting to balance flash output instead of fiddling in the flash menu to correct exposures.

[pico]

After a short while trying to get the SF24D to do what you want you will learn that it's TTL mode with the M is abysmal compared to how fast it works in A mode.

 

 

 

When you will have learned this, you will quickly find that the Olympus FL36 is a much more versatile flash on the M than the little 24.

 

 

 

I never use the TTL with my 24D as it's pre flash to flash interval is sooooo long, you could change lenses in between if you find you have the wrong one on the camera after pressing the shutter button.

 

 

 

I found that people simply blink when they are prepared to get a picture taken of them with this flash in TTL as they react on the pre-flash, perfectly captured in the actual exposure, while A works as it should.

 

 

Those who take the advice to shoot with a flash set in A-mode can save a lot of money by not buying a Leica flash.