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MF Grip FINALLY shipping to me Monday


algrove

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Guest WPalank

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One answer for QR needs is to get the RRS MC-L L bracket and then you can position it on the right side of the baseplate with the screw in position #2 (which puts the RF on top-yeah!). I am going to machine mine to remove portions of the lip used for centering so that it fits flush under the MF grip. In this way you can just leave the RRS L bracket on the MF grip and use the MF grips thumb wheel to remove it (together with the attached RRS L bracket) for battery and SD card changes.

 

Please post a picture when you get it configured. I'm a big fan of the RRS plates as well.

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Please post a picture when you get it configured. I'm a big fan of the RRS plates as well.

 

I expect the grip tomorrow and then I will get that positioning lip machined off at various places, spray paint the shaved areas black (I guess) and then post a photo. I hope this is a way to use the grip and have a QR L bracket that can be left on the grip.

 

I must say that the Leica grip has a way better feel than the RRS grip combo which to me has too much of a rounded hand grip which projects my fingers nearly beyond the #3 front button. The Leica grip is way better for me in this area since the curve stops and then shoots straight back to the camera body leaving more finger room in that tight front area around the #3 button. I will post a photo of what I am talking about too so you can see the difference between both grips from the overhead view position.

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I, too have the RRS M240 plate and think it is too much trouble for me to machine off the bracket.

As a result, I purchased and am waiting for a universal L bracket to arrive for me to fit it below my MF Grip and secure a Pocket Wizard Plus III device.

I'm going to try out the Lumo Pro LP180 fully Manual flash (off camera) set up instead of using my SF58 flash (will only use for HSS applications mounting it to MF grip).

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Initial reaction: it works, but the GPS is very slow to sync.

 

The initial sync, in a very open area, took about 10 minutes. It's possible that it was downloading the latest almanac for the constellation, so after it synced, I turned the camera off, and tried again after a couple hours. The next time, it took about 3 minutes, which is better, but hardly in keeping with the expected performance of modern GPS chipsets. And waiting three minutes from boot to get your photos geotagged is, at best, very annoying.

 

Unfortunately, the camera doesn't display much status info beyod the single GPS icon, so you can see which birds it's receiving or where it thinks they are in the sky. This makes it hard to pin down exactly what's going on.

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Initial reaction: it works, but the GPS is very slow to sync.

 

The initial sync, in a very open area, took about 10 minutes. It's possible that it was downloading the latest almanac for the constellation, so after it synced, I turned the camera off, and tried again after a couple hours. The next time, it took about 3 minutes, which is better, but hardly in keeping with the expected performance of modern GPS chipsets. And waiting three minutes from boot to get your photos geotagged is, at best, very annoying.

 

Unfortunately, the camera doesn't display much status info beyod the single GPS icon, so you can see which birds it's receiving or where it thinks they are in the sky. This makes it hard to pin down exactly what's going on.

 

 

Interesting attempt of an explanation: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/2504030-post37.html

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I, too have the RRS M240 plate and think it is too much trouble for me to machine off the bracket.

As a result, I purchased and am waiting for a universal L bracket to arrive for me to fit it below my MF Grip and secure a Pocket Wizard Plus III device.

I'm going to try out the Lumo Pro LP180 fully Manual flash (off camera) set up instead of using my SF58 flash (will only use for HSS applications mounting it to MF grip).

 

Just to be clear, I am talking about machining off some of the centering flange on the RRS MC-L, L bracket not on the RRS M240 plate. The flange interferes with mounting the L bracket flush under the MF grip so that portion will get machined off. That's all. I will post what I have done soon.

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Got the MF grip and just no one feels slighted there are no finger loops included with the grip.

 

Also the warning " the M grip may not be exposed to moisture or rain". Problem if outside.

 

The manual also mentions "The sync socket allows any external flash units to be used, including studio flash systems. This connection transmits the firing pulse, but no control signals. By contrast, connecting the SCA socket- with the SCA adapter set available as an accessory-allows all control signals for fully automatic TTL controlled flash photography to be transmitted…."

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Guest WPalank

Picked up mine today and won't be able to mount it to the M until tomorrow.

 

My biggest surprise is that the Manual (English bit) has less than a paragraph devoted to the GPS function.

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Picked up mine today and won't be able to mount it to the M until tomorrow.

 

My biggest surprise is that the Manual (English bit) has less than a paragraph devoted to the GPS function.

 

Yeah, like one sentence. Hear it's hard to get the first signal-like 15 minutes!

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Ok, so here's my idea before removing some of the MC-L centering flange.

 

M+MF grip+RRS MC-L horizontal

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

M+MF grip+RRS MC-L vertical

 

 

MF grip with RRS MC-L attached to grip for easier battery SD card removal

 

 

RRS Grip and M grip, grip handle comparison

 

 

Trust this helps better explain my idea which was difficult to properly explain in writing. This also puts the RF at the top which makes life easier.

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Just to be clear, I am talking about machining off some of the centering flange on the RRS MC-L, L bracket not on the RRS M240 plate. The flange interferes with mounting the L bracket flush under the MF grip so that portion will get machined off. That's all. I will post what I have done soon.

 

I considered the MC-L bracket for my intended use of mounting the "L" on the rangefinder viewer side of the camera and found the mounting screw position too 'short'.

Therefore I searched for another universal L-bracket from the web. Hopefully it will be a fit, will only know after receiving it.

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Keep in mind the MC-L has 4 positions for mounting on the M. I have used it for many months with the L on the left side of the camera (looking from the rear of camera) with the screw in position #3 counting away from the L side of the bracket. It works and works well and it weighs next to nothing and can be detached for street work.

 

Look the my photo of the grips in vertical position with the MC-L L bracket on the left.

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Guest WPalank
Perhaps I can't tell from this picture but the L bracket seems to fit OK without modification. Have you modified this and painted it to restore the finish?

 

+1

That's what i thought but felt I might have missed something. If not fitting properly would you mind discussing where and why? Thanks so much for any reply algrove.

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Picked up mine today and won't be able to mount it to the M until tomorrow.

 

My biggest surprise is that the Manual (English bit) has less than a paragraph devoted to the GPS function.

 

Hey Mr Palank,

 

Can you please try out tethering at some point and let us know how it goes? I'm eager to find out how quickly the files transfer, and how stable it is, if it works with lightroom, aperture etc.

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+1

That's what i thought but felt I might have missed something. If not fitting properly would you mind discussing where and why? Thanks so much for any reply algrove.

 

William

 

The problem with a flush fit occurs along the front of the grip especially where the grip handle is located because there is a flange on the front side of the L bracket which is maybe a ¼ inch high. This flange is used for centering the L bracket so that it does not spin when tightening it down under normal use.

 

One answer is to machine the entire flange off the L bracket so you get a smooth and flush seat along the entire L bracket. But other approach which I will try at first is to cut the flange away only where it goes under the handle area of the grip handle and anywhere else where it cannot seat up tight on the grip which is likely to be under the thumb wheel. This would still leave the centering flange in place for about 1 ¼ inches between the thumb wheel and the grip handle.

 

If you look very carefully at my photo of the grips in vertical position you can see a slightly shiny area on the right, top side of the L bracket. This is where the flange begins and it run down the entire L bracket nearly to the end of the L bracket.

 

I just noticed on the first photo you can see the flange along the top of the L bracket which prevents it from seating flush against the M grip. On the right side of the L bracket (under the camera and grip) where you see a rise in the L bracket that id the flange I am talking about machining some away so that the entire L bracket would be flat along it surface where the machining is done. You can see that the L bracket is nice and flat on the L portion of the bracket.

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What about the finger loops for the M grips? Any shown up yet? I know grips are getting more and more available, but wondered about the very expensive finger loops. To me, the loop is so inexpensive to produce, it should be included in the price of the grip--just go on line, select your preferred side, and have Leica send it to you.

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