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The Fuji X-E1 compared to an M


vikasmg

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on this I agree at higher iso's (1600 and above) I get horrible banding if you try to push shadow detail with the M and have founded that it is better to keep to lower iso's underexpose and then push the file

 

I think I should be fair and qualify that my comment is on experiences pre 2.0 firmware. Have you pushed 2.0 high ISO files? I've just read in the crappy colour thread, (the thread is crappy, not the colour!) that the green cast is gone with 2.0 Not sure if they meant the general WB casts or this high ISO pushed cast we're talking about?

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I switched my M9 for 5 days with a buddys Pro-1. My summary of comparison is that the Pro-1 was excellent in handling, in fact I was quite impressed. The IQ was excellent, although I was not impressed by high ISO performance due to high expectations from reviews and "tests". The no-go for me was that I couldn't handle the focus. For street I had close to zero focus hits however settings I tried. Also the lag from trying to make a photo until something finally happened was a few minutes in subjective-time to long for me. But I can fully understand that people go for this camera, although I must say that the focus and lag seems to be a major limitation?

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Sorry but what lag are you exactly talking about with the X-pro1? With mine and the latest firmware once focus is obtained I find that there is no real shutter lag to speak of. I can certainly focus and take a shot as quickly and if not quicker than I can with my Leica M. It is of course not up to the speed of a DSLR but then I don't expect it to be

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Sorry but what lag are you exactly talking about with the X-pro1? With mine and the latest firmware once focus is obtained I find that there is no real shutter lag to speak of. I can certainly focus and take a shot as quickly and if not quicker than I can with my Leica M. It is of course not up to the speed of a DSLR but then I don't expect it to be

The time from pushing the button until an exposure is made. The "once focus is obtained" can never be as short as with a M unless you use a M or similar lens. Have you really used your X-Pro for street with native lenses?

 

The lag from M9 and M is quite short. I have used M9 to photograph jumping fish without problems. So how do you reduce the focus time to zero, and I mean zero, with the X-pro?This is the current time lag for M for focus since you can pre-focus..

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The time from pushing the button until an exposure is made. The "once focus is obtained" can never be as short as with a M unless you use a M or similar lens. Have you really used your X-Pro for street with native lenses?

 

The lag from M9 and M is quite short. I have used M9 to photograph jumping fish without problems. So how do you reduce the focus time to zero, and I mean zero, with the X-pro?This is the current time lag for M for focus since you can pre-focus..

 

Set the X to manual focus, pre-focus to a certain distance, and fire away...:confused:

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on this I agree at higher iso's (1600 and above) I get horrible banding if you try to push shadow detail with the M and have founded that it is better to keep to lower iso's underexpose and then push the file

 

In all honesty, you can't push a high iso Fuji file without things starting to look crap either. I am fairly certain that the example posted previously in this thread is a base (200) iso file, not a 1600 iso file. The only high iso files that I feel that I can successfully push far while still retaining pleasing image quality is the Monochrom raw files.

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