Guess what came in the mail today? :)

[satya]

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My new Leica M8. In excellent shape.

 

Unfortunately the 40mm Summicron I ordered has still not come. So I just have my vintage shinny 90mm Summicron. Should have got black as when I use it- people often come to see the shinny chrome and ask about it.

 

I realize the 40mm is probably the best with the 1.33 crop factor. Any other lens that people can recommend I use? Someone said the Nokton 40mm is good- but i already have the 40mm cron- so was looking at the 35mm Summilux. There is one used one at a good price.

 

I need a M 50mm lenses. I have only a R 50mm that I cant use. I understand that I cant use the collapsable vintage 50s with the M8.

 

Any advise on what are the best camera settings to use?. Its on standard now. Wish the LCD screen was better as hard to see how picture quality is until I view on a PC. Have to learn to avoid camera shake with this lens- its top heavy.

 

Would the High settings show alot of camera motion? Im getting a soft release to help.

 

Would shooting in DNG and fine JPG slow down writing? Mainly doing street and portraits- so dont need speed. But would like quality images to use. JPG fine is pretty fast, havent shot in DNG yet.

 

Sorry for all the questions- ive only used a Leica R4 and an old M6 sometime back. Film was easier!

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[satya]

I saw some lovely chrome M8s on this forum. Now I should get another chrome M8 for my chrome lens!

 

Been looking for Black M lenses and it seems that most of the older lenses are all chrome!

 

Anyone use the Takumar SMC 50 on a M8? Been told its as good or similar (dont shoot me) to the Leica Summicron. Not the same- but supposed to have a certain look. Saw one with a M Bayonet mount.

[Philinflash]

Lens choices tend to be fairly personal and dependent on what and when you are shooting. These is a great deal written in this forum on lens choices; I suggest you read and decide for yourself. But if you have a 40, do you really need a 50?

 

"Any advise on what are the best camera settings to use?. Its on standard now." "Best" for what purposes? FWIW, I usually shoot with the EV @ -1/3 because I prefer a slightly darker image than the "standard" provides and sometimes the extra 1/3 stop is useful when hand-held (most of the time for me).

 

" Have to learn to avoid camera shake with this lens- its top heavy." Top-heavy or front-heavy? Generally speaking, the heavier the camera, the less camera shake no matter where the center of gravity is. Perhaps you are just nervous with a new-to-you camera.

 

"Would the High settings show alot of camera motion?" I do not know what you mean by "high settings". Faster shutter=less camera blur.

 

"Would shooting in DNG and fine JPG slow down writing?" Yes. Also, takes up more space on the memory card. Shooting both is not generally a good idea unless you have a specific need for both. For instance, photojournalists frequently must send unprocessed JPGs to editors for comment and direction without waiting for the full finally produced image that you would get after post production of DNG files. That can be done with the JPGs straight off the card. If you are doing anything at all with the images in Photoshop, you will probably want to starts with DNGs rather than the already-partially-processed and compressed JPGs. When you have finished your PS mods and want to send out the images is when you convert to JPG. If you want quality, you probably want DNGs out of the camera.

 

Good luck and good shooting with your new hardware.

[NJH]

FWIW I have learned not be overly bothered if looking at an image on the rear screen makes it look overexposed a bit with a some bits burned out (I have red blinkies turned on). Once the DNG has been loaded into ACR a whole other world emerges. The rear screen is I find though just about good enough to judge focus.

 

Have fun with it I am still very much in love with mine.

[Philinflash]

Yes, the LCD screen on the back has limited utility.

 

I use it most as a way of checking composition and to assure I got everything in the frame I wanted, given the vagueness of viewfinder frame lines. Second, I use it as a reality check on exposures but only in the grossest possible terms. Third and very occasionally, I will use it as a focus check by zooming in on critical parts of the image.

[satya]

L But if you have a 40, do you really need a 50?

 

Hi Phil,

 

Thanks for your response.

 

True. But eventually I would like to move to a full frame and then thought a 50 would be ideal. I used the R Summicron 50 alot and loved it. I shoot mainly portraits and people.

 

"Any advise on what are the best camera settings to use?. Its on standard now." "Best" for what purposes? FWIW, I usually shoot with the EV @ -1/3 because I prefer a slightly darker image than the "standard" provides and sometimes the extra 1/3 stop is useful when hand-held (most of the time for me).

 

I meant the picture settings. I had it on reset mode and was experimenting with the other settings. I also have to look at EV settings. Thanks for your experience. I like more contrast too- so darker would help. I am trying to have one profile for natural outdoor, indoor- evening and one for maybe black and white- high contrast.

 

" Have to learn to avoid camera shake with this lens- its top heavy." Top-heavy or front-heavy? ..

 

Lol- my present M lens is a vintage 90mm Summicron- i meant front heavy. But now problem solved with a thumbs up that I installed yesterday. Now easier to use. The ebay seller who i paid for the 40mm Summicron is not responding to me. sigh. Probably on holiday. Could have gotten a lens for 100 Euro more at Leica shop yesterday. There was also a Vo'lander 40 as well.

 

"Would the High settings show alot of camera motion?" I do not know what you mean by "high settings". Faster shutter=less camera blur.

I meant high picture setting. I was trying to figure out if it is more sensitive to movement?

 

"Would shooting in DNG and fine JPG slow down writing?" Yes. Also, takes up more space on the memory card. Shooting both is not generally a good idea unless you have a specific need for both. For instance, photojournalists frequently must send unprocessed JPGs to editors for comment and direction without waiting for the full finally produced image that you would get after post production of DNG files. That can be done with the JPGs straight off the card. If you are doing anything at all with the images in Photoshop, you will probably want to starts with DNGs rather than the already-partially-processed and compressed JPGs. When you have finished your PS mods and want to send out the images is when you convert to JPG. If you want quality, you probably want DNGs out of the camera.

 

I'm trying to have a show later- and get some portrait assingments now and then- so was doing both. But I have switched to just DNG except when I need JPGs to send without any editing. I try to minimize PP work and prefer natural straight from camera. Hence I need to experiment with the settings more. On the RF Forum someone gave some ideas for 3 ranges to save- so trying that.

 

Good luck and good shooting with your new hardware.[/QUOTE]

 

Thanks. Now getting new strap- choices choices! Finally decided on a barton braided strap thats easy to wrap on wrist. Now wavering between black and the brown. sigh...

[satya]

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Got the Silk cord strap by Artisan & Artist instead. and new Leica battery.

 

Light, compact and different.

 

Now to wait for my 40 summicron in the post.

[Philinflash]

...I am trying to have one profile for natural outdoor, indoor- evening and one for maybe black and white- high contrast....

Probably a good idea.

...I try to minimize PP work and prefer natural straight from camera. ...

One of the great payoffs of digital photography is the PP potential for elevating the straight capture to a higher plane. I cannot remember the last time I had an image I liked that couldn't benefit from some, or a lot, of PP. I simply do not feel the process of making a photograph stops when I press the shutter release.

[bjornthun]

Got the Silk cord strap by Artisan & Artist instead. and new Leica battery.

 

Light, compact and different.

 

Now to wait for my 40 summicron in the post.

 

You have something to look forward to with the 40 Summicron. It has very good quality an makes the camera + lens combo very unobtrusive

[satya]

Yes the silver chrome 90mm 'cron is not too discrete. a few people come over to look at the lens. Maybe should have gotten a silver M8

 

Now if I can find a 24mm - I got all aspects covered.