Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1481 Posted September 13, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Chris,this second series is beautiful in color. I recognize the Ektar 100 Thank you. Chris I work at 30 ° C with Tetenal ! Regards Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 13, 2014 Posted September 13, 2014 Hi Doc Henry, Take a look here I like film...(open thread). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1482 Posted September 13, 2014 For Chris ... sequence glider in our region, Kodak Ektar 100 and M7 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2668878'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1483 Posted September 13, 2014 How to launch the glider ? An "engine" (bottom of the photo) that pulls a very strong cable that launches the glider at full speed ! very impressive and silent mechanism ! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Kodak Ektar 100 M7 50LA Henry 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Kodak Ektar 100 M7 50LA Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2668890'>More sharing options...
chrism Posted September 13, 2014 Share #1484 Posted September 13, 2014 I noticed earlier in the thread, Henry, that you posted photos of a K13 - my very first glider flight was in a K13 in the late 1960's at South Marston. Do you use the standard times for C41 when processing at 30ºC - I imagine you would have to lengthen them? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted September 13, 2014 Share #1485 Posted September 13, 2014 I went back to a couple of my last roll of Ektar to see if I have learnt anything about using the Flexcolor software that drives the X1. Original scan, then new scan: I think it's a bit closer to the actual scene. Chris 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 13, 2014 Share #1486 Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) Chris thank you for your answer. I develop myself also color (C41) and I work with a water bath at 30 ° C like Fred in a French friend forum (do google translation to read in English) Le Pirate • Voir le sujet - Le Traitement C41 à domicile My pictures of London posted previously is developed home Regards Henry Dear Henri, I'm asking from ignorance about this particular subject and hoping for a helpful answer. Is there an advantage for a film shooter (and non-scanner ) like me, who works down-town, to process C41 at home? Can you push it? Can you influence contrast? Do faulty results arrive from the still existing NON-professional labs? (Only once did I receive a roll witj a scratch all through all the pictures.) My last question: since those non-professional labs might be VERY cost-conscious due to their economic situation today: Does a rinsing by me at home of my processed films after receiving them back make sense? It is not a problem to not have the films cut, if I write it big on the bags. I practice this for all, because I also use 18X24 Olympus Pen (for 1600 ASA). (Roll-films - 50-200ASA in my case - have to go to a pro lab). Cordialement Simon-Peter Edited September 13, 2014 by tri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1487 Posted September 13, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I noticed earlier in the thread, Henry, that you posted photos of a K13 - my very first glider flight was in a K13 in the late 1960's at South Marston. Do you use the standard times for C41 when processing at 30ºC - I imagine you would have to lengthen them? Chris Chris , when processing at 30°C +/- 0.5 ,development time is 5 mns. Please look at the link (Chris , do Google translation French-English) I try it for you : https://translate.google.fr/translate?sl=fr&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=fr&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pirate-photo.fr%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D655&edit-text= Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1488 Posted September 13, 2014 I went back to a couple of my last roll of Ektar to see if I have learnt anything about using the Flexcolor software that drives the X1. Original scan, then new scan: I think it's a bit closer to the actual scene. Chris It's better Chris ! Regards Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1489 Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) Dear Henri, I'm asking from ignorance about this particular subject and hoping for a helpful answer. Is there an advantage for a film shooter (and non-scanner ) like me, who works down-town, to process C41 at home? Can you push it? Can you influence contrast? Do faulty results arrive from the still existing NON-professional labs? (Only once did I receive a roll witj a scratch all through all the pictures.) My last question: since those non-professional labs might be VERY cost-conscious due to their economic situation today: Does a rinsing by me at home of my processed films after receiving them back make sense? It is not a problem to not have the films cut, if I write it big on the bags. I practice this for all, because I also use 18X24 Olympus Pen (for 1600 ASA). (Roll-films - 50-200ASA in my case - have to go to a pro lab). Cordialement Simon-Peter Simon is very easy if you usually develop b&w film. It's the same thing except that here it is absolutely necessary to maintain a constant temperature. You have to buy a water bath to heat the water to 30° C (measured with a thermometer) If this constant temperature is maintained for 5 minutes the colors will be impeccable but if the temperature varies (per ex. down) colors will change. The development step is the most important. I have two bath with a thermostat. Resistance aquarium (for fish) is also good.Buy a small aquarium on which you put the resistance to heat water. No scratches on film if done at home Send me a MP if you need some more information. Best Henry Once scanned your film, you can process your Tiff with photo software (LR,PS,CO). In general, I do not use software for film but for photos from my M8 / M9 sometimes I do . Edited September 13, 2014 by Doc Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1490 Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) For Chris ... sequence glider in our region, Kodak Ektar 100 and M7 [ATTACH]457123[/ATTACH] Best Henry I noticed earlier in the thread, Henry, that you posted photos of a K13 - my very first glider flight was in a K13 in the late 1960's at South Marston. Do you use the standard times for C41 when processing at 30ºC - I imagine you would have to lengthen them? Chris Chris, it seems to me it's a K21 for training no ? .... and in b&w posted above, this is indeed a K13, you're right Best Henry Edited September 13, 2014 by Doc Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1491 Posted September 13, 2014 Cliff "Cap Blanc Nez" near Calais (151 m) ... in the mist Film Fuji A100 M7 35 Summilux Asph Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2669104'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share #1492 Posted September 13, 2014 The ability of the film to support "contre-jour" (against the light) is remarkable (dynamic of the film) The digital can not because the picture will be underexposed ! Here are two pictures taken in "contre-jour", we see all the detail in the shadows and colors are always present motoglider Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Kodak Ektar 100 + M7 Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Kodak Ektar 100 + M7 Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2669138'>More sharing options...
chrism Posted September 13, 2014 Share #1493 Posted September 13, 2014 I might try a colour film at 30ºC - my chemicals are from Unicolor rather than Tetenal, but C-41 is standardised and it shouldn't matter. But today I felt the need to enjoy some real blacks! I walked long the disused railway line in the opposite direction to yesterday's walk, and took the M7, Lux35FLE, Acros 100 @80, a yellow filter. Film was developed in Rodinal 1:50 and scanned on the X1. Very contrasty negatives - I will shorten the development time if I use this combination again. The old train station (now a restaurant and hotel): A grain elevator at the old creamery: More in part 2... Chris 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted September 13, 2014 Share #1494 Posted September 13, 2014 A few more... A box girder railway bridge This boat won't float Back to "civilisation" Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 14, 2014 Share #1495 Posted September 14, 2014 ... Best Henry Once scanned your film, you can process your Tiff... Once retired I shall do this. It is still far away but not very far It is evident, that it will be "the impossible challenge" to best your wonderful photographs, which I always have an eye for. Many thanks and kind regards, Simon P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share #1496 Posted September 14, 2014 I might try a colour film at 30ºC - my chemicals are from Unicolor rather than Tetenal, but C-41 is standardised and it shouldn't matter. But today I felt the need to enjoy some real blacks! I walked long the disused railway line in the opposite direction to yesterday's walk, and took the M7, Lux35FLE, Acros 100 @80, a yellow filter. Film was developed in Rodinal 1:50 and scanned on the X1. Very contrasty negatives - I will shorten the development time if I use this combination again.The old train station (now a restaurant and hotel): A grain elevator at the old creamery: More in part 2... Chris Very nice b&w series ot this nice place ! Practical question for me : - what is the development time of Acros 100 ? you plan to further reduce this time ? - when you write: "Acros 100 @80" it means that it has developed at 80 Isos ? Thanks Chris Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share #1497 Posted September 14, 2014 Once retired I shall do this. It is still far away but not very far It is evident, that it will be "the impossible challenge" to best your wonderful photographs, which I always have an eye for. Many thanks and kind regards, Simon P Simon, I am not a fan of using the software for correcting my pictures because I am not competent . In medicine yes ! For this reason I correct very little and not at all my photos Best Henry Please post your pictures here. You are welcome. Thanks for your comment Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share #1498 Posted September 14, 2014 Very wet this year, harvest earlier than other years I like the grain of film picture and you ? not like pictures coming from my M8 or M9 ! M7 35 Summilux Asph Fuji A100 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2669406'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share #1499 Posted September 14, 2014 ... in our region, the harvest of the grapes begin earlier (global warming ) Fuji Superia 100 Pro M7 50 LA Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! and in macrophoto (uncropped) 90 MacroElmar no "smooth" edge Thanks for looking and commenting Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! and in macrophoto (uncropped) 90 MacroElmar no "smooth" edge Thanks for looking and commenting Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2669427'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share #1500 Posted September 14, 2014 .... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Henry 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2669431'>More sharing options...
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