I like film...(open thread)

[Ratzfatz]

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M7-50 Planar-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

 

 

More Rollei RPX 400:

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

Edward,

I am sorry, yesterday I was not able to response to your Photos. The two photos above are very impressive ...

And I think I should test the RPX, you results looks very nice.

 

Best

Gregor

[edwardkaraa]

Edward,

I am sorry, yesterday I was not able to response to your Photos. The two photos above are very impressive ...

And I think I should test the RPX, you results looks very nice.

 

Best

Gregor

Thank you very much, Gregor, for your nice comments! Greatly appreciated!

[edwardkaraa]

One more set:

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

[Steve Ricoh]

Thank you gnuyork! It's my current favorite.

I'm a new (old) user of film, so bare with me please. I'm interested in different brands and would like to know how Rollei Rpx 400 compares with Tmax 400 and HP5+ ? I tend to 'oscillate' between these.

[Steve Ricoh]

Barn spying.

 

Likely a contemporary of the camera used.

 

img777 by W P_, on Flickr

 

Minox B, Complan 15mm 3.5, Ilford Delta 400...........Hand-rolled

So good, that's the film look I want to produce. Not silky smooth, I want to 'smell' film when I look at an image.

Can you spill the beans, what's the process to get this look?

[SilentShutter]

Push, overexpose and develop longer and you get grain like Ayers Rock !

[Wayne]

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So good, that's the film look I want to produce. Not silky smooth, I want to 'smell' film when I look at an image.

Can you spill the beans, what's the process to get this look?

Thanks for asking.  A while back I purchased, on Ebay, a simple slitter that allows you to cut one roll of 24 exposure, 35mm film into two strips of Minox sub-miniature width film. These strips are then each cut in half to form two 36 exposure length strips of film, for a total of four 36 exposure films. The Minox film cassettes can be disassembled with no special tools, allowing manual reloading, in total darkness, by simply rolling the film, taping one end of the film to the tiny take-up spool,  placing film roll and take-up spool into the appropriate film chambers, and snapping the two caps into place. As the Minox sub miniature cameras have a constant aperture of 3.5, it is best to use film rated at 200 ISO, or less. I did use Ilford Delta 400 for this shot, but had to expose the entire roll indoors; shooting in daylight, even under overcast sky, was impossible. 

 

This photograph was processed using a vintage, Minox brand daylight developing tank. Loading the tank is a fairly easy process and requires simply clipping the end of the roll to a rotating element that forms part of the tank lid assembly, fitting the film cartridge to a molded chamber (also in the tank lid,) installing the lid onto the tank, and then rotating the element to draw the film from the cartridge and into the developing tank. It is a quite ingenious set-up, is much easier than loading standard 35mm film rolls onto reels, and requires no dark bag. Once the film is rolled into the tank, processing chemstry is simply poured into the top opening until overflow is seen in a small sink that extends from the side of of the tank ( the sink sits above the chamber where the film cartridge resides.) It is my experience that the tank accepts  only 50 or 60 ML of chemistry  before overflow is seen in the sink. I used a 1/50 dilution of Rodinal....IOW, I used slightly more than 1ML of Rodinal to develop the entire roll.

 

Problems associated use of the tank reside in the fact that there is no good way to agitate. The overflow opening, as well as the fact that there is no cap for opening through which chemistry is poured, make it impossible to invert the tank during processing. Minox instructions state that simply placing the thermometer (supplied with tank) in the top hole and vigorously lifting and lowering the thermometer throughout the process time will provide adequate agitation in the developing chamber. It is my experience that this is not true, as I have had some trouble with even development of all images on the roll: the 7 to 10 images at the top of the tank ( the last to be withdrawn from the cartridge- the first images taken) are underdeveloped. I assume this is because agitation of chemistry in the top of the tank is inadequate.

 

I am presently trying out a second method, seen on WWW, whereby you cut a 6cm wide strip of thin plastic, roll the plastic sheet into a stainless steel 120 film reel, and then tape the minox film strip (emulsion side out) onto the plastic. The film must be taped at both ends with electrical tape and wound around the plastic strip at an angle because the length of the film encircles the plastic slightly more than two times. So far, I am having some difficulty as the film strip will move, allowing some portions of the film to overlap during the process. Overlapping does not allow proper processing. I suppose I need to use greater tension as I wind the film around the plastic. This second process does require a dark bag.

 

I am having a bunch of fun with this, even though there has been some disappointment related to difficulty in processing the film. I am confident I will somehow overcome.  It is unbelievable how stealthy the Minox is. Frequently I have pointed the camera right at folks, with the result that they did not even recognize the fact that it is a camera.

[edwardkaraa]

I'm a new (old) user of film, so bare with me please. I'm interested in different brands and would like to know how Rollei Rpx 400 compares with Tmax 400 and HP5+ ? I tend to 'oscillate' between these.

 

RPX 400 is the resurrected old Agfa APX 400, manufactored at the original Agfa-Gevaert factory in Belgium. The current Agfa of the same name is just a rebranded Kentmere. The old APX was a very well liked film due to its high silver content and rich tonality. Due to its classic grain structure, it is more comparable to Tri-X 400 and HP5+. I'm not sure how these three compare in rendering but I feel the Tri-X is a bit more contrasty, and has a narrower tonality.

[A miller]

Thanks, Edward.  It is indeed very fun to see the finished product and know that it will give a family enjoyment for many years.  After all, there is so much more to our photography than mere web sharing!!

I love the simplicity, high contrast and the deep warm colors of this one, Adam.

And the prints are gorgeous! It must be very satisfying to see one's work materialized into a real palpable piece of art.

 

Many thanks, Richard.  Yes, these mounted prints have been sold and are on their way to the new proud owners as I write.  I sell one or two every couple of months, mostly from my website.  I have been extremely lazy at targeting the gallery circuit here in NYC but every time I venture to SOHO and walk in a gallery and can't help but kick myself - HARD.

 

Btw, I love the second one you shared today, and the juxtaposition of the bottom and top half of the frame

 

 

Great to see these finished products and, presumably, you selling prints as well, Adam?

Richly deserved and no small effort involved on your part after many super early starts/tripod expeditions etc. Great stuff!

 

I've only just started cutting my own mats and mounting little 5x7 enlargements but really really enjoying the end-to-end nature of the process.

 

I can't quote every image but I've tried to 'like' as well and continue to enjoy the massive variety of everything. Film... is it.

 

A couple of street scenes with Rolleiflex and Delta 100 this time, still only up to April.

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Gregor.  I rec'd a lot of helpful comments on these here.  I appreciate that.

Fantastic ... I remember your great autumn photos. I can imagine that the big Flexi prints are very impressive ...

Congratulations

Best

Gregor

 

Edward - the negative space in this one is particularly effective, and works very well in B&W!

One more set:

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

 

M7-35 Distagon-Rollei RPX 400 by edward karaa, on Flickr

[AntonioF]

Downtown Vancouver

M6, Summicron 35 asph and Tri-X

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Steve Ricoh]

RPX 400 is the resurrected old Agfa APX 400, manufactored at the original Agfa-Gevaert factory in Belgium. The current Agfa of the same name is just a rebranded Kentmere. The old APX was a very well liked film due to its high silver content and rich tonality. Due to its classic grain structure, it is more comparable to Tri-X 400 and HP5+. I'm not sure how these three compare in rendering but I feel the Tri-X is a bit more contrasty, and has a narrower tonality.

Thank you, since I like my contrast I think I should stick with Tri X.

[Steve Ricoh]

Push, overexpose and develop longer and you get grain like Ayers Rock !

Right, next roll here we come!

[Steve Ricoh]

Thanks for asking.  A while back I purchased, on Ebay, a simple slitter that allows you to cut one roll of 24 exposure, 35mm film into two strips of Minox sub-miniature width film. These strips are then each cut in half to form two 36 exposure length strips of film, for a total of four 36 exposure films. The Minox film cassettes can be disassembled with no special tools, allowing manual reloading, in total darkness, by simply rolling the film, taping one end of the film to the tiny take-up spool,  placing film roll and take-up spool into the appropriate film chambers, and snapping the two caps into place. As the Minox sub miniature cameras have a constant aperture of 3.5, it is best to use film rated at 200 ISO, or less. I did use Ilford Delta 400 for this shot, but had to expose the entire roll indoors; shooting in daylight, even under overcast sky, was impossible. 

 

This photograph was processed using a vintage, Minox brand daylight developing tank. Loading the tank is a fairly easy process and requires simply clipping the end of the roll to a rotating element that forms part of the tank lid assembly, fitting the film cartridge to a molded chamber (also in the tank lid,) installing the lid onto the tank, and then rotating the element to draw the film from the cartridge and into the developing tank. It is a quite ingenious set-up, is much easier than loading standard 35mm film rolls onto reels, and requires no dark bag. Once the film is rolled into the tank, processing chemstry is simply poured into the top opening until overflow is seen in a small sink that extends from the side of of the tank ( the sink sits above the chamber where the film cartridge resides.) It is my experience that the tank accepts  only 50 or 60 ML of chemistry  before overflow is seen in the sink. I used a 1/50 dilution of Rodinal....IOW, I used slightly more than 1ML of Rodinal to develop the entire roll.

 

Problems associated use of the tank reside in the fact that there is no good way to agitate. The overflow opening, as well as the fact that there is no cap for opening through which chemistry is poured, make it impossible to invert the tank during processing. Minox instructions state that simply placing the thermometer (supplied with tank) in the top hole and vigorously lifting and lowering the thermometer throughout the process time will provide adequate agitation in the developing chamber. It is my experience that this is not true, as I have had some trouble with even development of all images on the roll: the 7 to 10 images at the top of the tank ( the last to be withdrawn from the cartridge- the first images taken) are underdeveloped. I assume this is because agitation of chemistry in the top of the tank is inadequate.

 

I am presently trying out a second method, seen on WWW, whereby you cut a 6cm wide strip of thin plastic, roll the plastic sheet into a stainless steel 120 film reel, and then tape the minox film strip (emulsion side out) onto the plastic. The film must be taped at both ends with electrical tape and wound around the plastic strip at an angle because the length of the film encircles the plastic slightly more than two times. So far, I am having some difficulty as the film strip will move, allowing some portions of the film to overlap during the process. Overlapping does not allow proper processing. I suppose I need to use greater tension as I wind the film around the plastic. This second process does require a dark bag.

 

I am having a bunch of fun with this, even though there has been some disappointment related to difficulty in processing the film. I am confident I will somehow overcome.  It is unbelievable how stealthy the Minox is. Frequently I have pointed the camera right at folks, with the result that they did not even recognize the fact that it is a camera.

Thanks for the excellent description, what you're doing certainly adds an extra dimension or two to photography, I'm amazed!

I'd like to get (and I hope I don't offend you by my choice of word) that 'rough' look in my film images (I don't want my film images looking remotely like digital, if I did I'd stick with digital) but I want the effect using 35mm. I think SilentShutter has given me help here.

[edwardkaraa]

Thank you, since I like my contrast I think I should stick with Tri X.

 

My next few rolls will be Tri-X, so I'm looking forward to checking out the differences in rendering.

[edwardkaraa]

Thanks, Edward.  It is indeed very fun to see the finished product and know that it will give a family enjoyment for many years.  After all, there is so much more to our photography than mere web sharing!!

 

 

Edward - the negative space in this one is particularly effective, and works very well in B&W!

 

Thanks Adam!

[Doug A]

So good, that's the film look I want to produce. Not silky smooth, I want to 'smell' film when I look at an image.

Can you spill the beans, what's the process to get this look?

 

I suspect the tiny (8mm by 11mm) negative has a lot to do with it 

Edited September 14, 2017 by Doug A

[Guest JMF]

Whiskeyyyy ....

 

COL_Bogota+Subachoque_R1_SFX200_04Listo.jpg

Hasselblad 500cm, Ilford SFX200, Epson 700 with ANR glas

 

Was this shot in Bogota?!

[Wayne]

Thanks for the excellent description, what you're doing certainly adds an extra dimension or two to photography, I'm amazed!

I'd like to get (and I hope I don't offend you by my choice of word) that 'rough' look in my film images (I don't want my film images looking remotely like digital, if I did I'd stick with digital) but I want the effect using 35mm. I think SilentShutter has given me help here.

As Silent Shutter stated, it is possible to get the grainy look by pushing exposure in process. Rodinal seems excellent for this purpose. I believe the Minox sub-miniature cameras take to an extra level by virtue of very small negative: when the image is enlarged to viewing size, the grain is just larger....much larger. I have recently shot about four rolls of hand-rolled Delta 100. I should be able to post a couple in not-to-distant future. I expect they will not be quite as grainy as the 400 images. I share your sentiments on film grain. The Minox just takes it to a new level.

[Steve Ricoh]

As Silent Shutter stated, it is possible to get the grainy look by pushing exposure in process. Rodinal seems excellent for this purpose. I believe the Minox sub-miniature cameras take to an extra level by virtue of very small negative: when the image is enlarged to viewing size, the grain is just larger....much larger. I have recently shot about four rolls of hand-rolled Delta 100. I should be able to post a couple in not-to-distant future. I expect they will not be quite as grainy as the 400 images. I share your sentiments on film grain. The Minox just takes it to a new level.

Thanks to you and the fabulous image you posted earlier, I have finally found what I want out of film. Perhaps I'm strange, but I don't mind seeing the odd scratch (not too big mind you) or dust, and I definitely like to see the film gate in the image, and being able to read the film type. I think it adds to the visual treat.

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[MaDeVa]

Hello my friends,

after shooting for many years 35mm it was the right time to go large.

So I got this lady!

I hope to share with you some photos very soon (I don't have. A scanner for medium format).

Cheers

Massimo

 

 

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