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My approach (there are other valid approaches, maybe some better) would be to make a test with a 0 filter looking and assessing only at the highlights. Ignore the shadows – they will come later – and get the best time to retain some detail in your highlights. If you have two exposures that look good, lean towards the lighter one. Lets say it is 20 sec.

 

Next make a test for the contrast/shadows. Put your test paper in the easel, and expose through the 0 filter for 20 sec. Then makes exposures at various times through the 5 filter. Develop and see which time gives you best shadow detail, rich blacks and contrast. Lets say 42 sec. My experience is that the 5 filter exposure is usually much longer than the 0 filter exposure.

 

Make notes and save your tests, at least until you are satisfied.

 

Then make a full working print with 1) 20 sec through the 0 filter and 2) 42 sec through the 5 filter.

 

If you are still not rip-your-clothes-off ecstatic, you could increase contrast by reducing the 0 filter time and increasing the 5 filter time – try 10%. Or you could change the 0 filter for a .5 or 1 or 1.5 filter (probably the same 20 sec time). Decrease contrast by increasing the 0 filter time, and reducing the 5 filter time. This is now in the realm of organized play. Make careful notes so you learn something permanent.

 

This approach builds knowledge step by step, saves time and paper, and will generate a pretty good print.

 

Apropos developing of the print – as a basic rule of thumb, note the time for the image to emerge in the developer, and keep the print in the developer for 10x that time. So if the image emerges in 15 sec, develop for 150 sec (i.e. 2.5 minutes). My experience is that the common advice of 2 minutes is not enough to produce the maximum black the paper will give (normally one of my requirements).

The way I do a split grade print is to make a test strip 2 inches wide by exposing the whole strip for 2 seconds with the 0 grade, then cover the strip leaving 1 inch expose for another 2 seconds and repeat across the strip until you get to the last inch, so the last inch has been exposed for 2 seconds next inch 4 seconds and so on, repeat withe grade 5 then pick an exposure that is not too dense on each. Then expose the 0 grade and then 5 grade and hopefully you will have a nice print

I hope this makes sense I'm not great at explaining in words

 

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The way I do a split grade print is to make a test strip 2 inches wide by exposing the whole strip for 2 seconds with the 0 grade, then cover the strip leaving 1 inch expose for another 2 seconds and repeat across the strip until you get to the last inch, so the last inch has been exposed for 2 seconds next inch 4 seconds and so on, repeat withe grade 5 then pick an exposure that is not too dense on each. Then expose the 0 grade and then 5 grade and hopefully you will have a nice print

I hope this makes sense I'm not great at explaining in words

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

If you want an easy workflow printing b&w you could look at getting something like a Heiland splitgrade system (http://heilandelectronic.de/splitgrade/lang:en). In my experience it works excellent for all normal negatives. (It may have difficulties with staining developers, but I have not seen anyone on this forum using those).

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

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A gelato place in my hometown by night.

M6, 35/2 asph, Trix400.

Ciao. Antonio.

 

7791f98af27ae581f4cfe0521720a9f9.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Picture taken in difficult light condition and looking very nice Montez

Thank you.

 

I have a couple of rolls of Pan F that I want to test ( a 35mm and a 120mm). The problem is I am not sure what to use them for ... portraits, landscapes, long exposure ...

 

You can go ... if you like , the aspect is a bit different in comparison with Kodak TX400 or TMAX100

Best

Henry

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I love this one, Henry. It has a timeless quality about it.

 

Best,

 

Wayne

Thank you Wayne. I know Regine since 1980. A good lady so she asks me

to photograph the preparation of the wedding of her son at her house

Not valid for professional photographer .

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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If you want an easy workflow printing b&w you could look at getting something like a Heiland splitgrade system (http://heilandelectronic.de/splitgrade/lang:en). In my experience it works excellent for all normal negatives. (It may have difficulties with staining developers, but I have not seen anyone on this forum using those).

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

I was taught by Dave Butcher Ilford master printer

 

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I have a new batch of developed films and scans to sort through. 

 

Early Purple Orchid on a verge at Martin Down, Hampshire last month. 29 Summaron-M and Portra 400.

 

34728717160_11b92490e1_b.jpg

Ian it looks great the first picture of your batch :)

 

Not sure we allow that kind of thing this side of the channel, Henry.  :D

 

Have you taste Veuve Cliquot Champagne Ian ?  :) 

I recommand !

Rg

Henry

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Henry, both are beautiful pictures. I prefer the film one, the digital one is too clean.

 

I like very much these comparisons between film and digital. Not to say which one better, but to see the differencies and character attributes of both.

 

I agree Stefan .

 

If you don't do the comparison , all pictures you watch are nice , even pictures coming from your iPhone  :)

 

The quality of the image is observed , when you have points of comparison !

The problem is that the majority of people who photograph in digital do not have points of comparison  !

Best

Henry

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50 shades of green:

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Minilux - Cinestill 800T

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If you want an easy workflow printing b&w you could look at getting something like a Heiland splitgrade system (http://heilandelectronic.de/splitgrade/lang:en). In my experience it works excellent for all normal negatives. (It may have difficulties with staining developers, but I have not seen anyone on this forum using those).

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

Bit pricey, here;s one that i stand developed the negative HP5 @iso800 then enlarged my split grade way

 

print20-XL.jpg

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Bit pricey, here;s one that i stand developed the negative HP5 @iso800 then enlarged my split grade way

 

print20-XL.jpg

Nice doggy.

Pricey? Maybe, but it's a choice: spend a bit of money or a lot of time? :)

 

Rgds

 

C.

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Just found some from an afternoon at Eyam where most of the villagers died of the plague which was brought in on a carpet from London

M4P, 21mmF4, HP5

 

Eyam hall shot through the bars of the gate

 

098-XL.jpg

 

095-XL.jpg

 

I dismissed this shot but just looed at it again and really like the shadows of the gate

 

104-XL.jpg

Edited by gsgary
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@ Adam: The Velvia is more flashy /pop art like. I like both - it depends on what one is looking for.

@ Henry : I do not plan at all selling  :o  :o  :o  these cameras - how could I ? I need them all the time...

Here's a pic from January 2017. Leica IIIf / Kodak Tri-X 400

Scan from negative, not from a print. I know, it would be better without the ground that can be seen on the left. But it is the entire photo this way.

Jean-Marie

 

 

 

 

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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