I like film...(open thread)

[edwardkaraa]

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Chinese temple - Bangkok

 

M7 ZM 50/2 Portra 400

 

 

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[edwardkaraa]

Wat Pho - Bangkok

 

M7 ZM 50/2 Delta 400

 

 

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[Doc Henry]

FM3a... and so on

 

FM3A_Maerz_36.jpg

 

Data like before

 

FM3A_2_Maerz_31.jpg

 

Very fine as color , very refreshing for me whan watching

This pink color is really nice

Thanks Klaus

Henry

[Doc Henry]

 

I love the threads about film and film camera's, i watch/read on the forum what i like and i skip the rest. I don't think that there is an anti digital attitude in the film/film camera related topics. I'm grateful to Henry and all other participants in the threads, you all motivate and stimulate me. 

 

Beautiful quote from New York photographer David Spielman:

 

"Why film i'm asked? It's just a matter of preference. Some people play a Steinway, others play an electric keyboard. Both have 88 keys, 56 white, 32 black. One isn’t right and the other wrong, they are just different, different ways of recording what you are feeling and seeing."

 

 

Paul , thanks for your post and your link

 

.... many years ago I have already spoke and compare sound and image

I said High Fidelity of Image and High Fidelity of sound ,  same fight

Analog against digital !

It's still valid to day in 2017 !

Here we have a new contributor 3ooB who believes also to this . I think she will

intervene soon

 

 

For you picture comparing tube and film camera both for the quality of what you listen and

what you watch

 

Sound and image in his pureness 

 

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Best

Henry

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[Doc Henry]

Chinatown - Bangkok

 

M7 ZM 35/2.8 Delta 400

 

Wat Pho - Bangkok

 

M7 ZM 50/2 Delta 400

 

I like your manner of shooting street photos.

I think the M7 is enough "fast"  for this kind of shot  and it's a case as said Raymond Depardon

"the faster of all M cameras"

Nice b&w tone

Thanks for posting Edward

Best

Henry

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[Doc Henry]

Wrong time of year for blossom here, so a frond is all I can throw at you.

Gary

 

Gary wow what nice green

Wonderful green

Is't Kodak film ?

Thanks

Henry

[Doc Henry]

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Just before sunrise from Mevagissey, Cornwall. Mackerel sky with HP5+, 50mm Summilux III probably.

 

And the fine colour of Fuji Pro400H at Tintagel, same lens.

 

I just realised that second shot is from 107 rolls of film ago! I have a bit of catching up to do..

 

Coog very nice landscape pictures , restful  for me when watching

Nice color and b&w

Thanks for posting 

Henry

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[Doc Henry]

Grain 

 

Fuji Pro400H

 

 

Chris your sand is in relief 3D on my Eizo screen

Very nice effect

Thanks for posting

Henry

[Doc Henry]

Data like before

 

FM3A_2_Maerz_31.jpg

 

Very nice contrast in color blue and pink

Nice composition and framing Klaus

Thanks

Henry

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

How important is it to have the stop and fixer at 20 deg

I know the Dev needs to be but??

[Doc Henry]

To go along with Eoin's tree fascination.

500C/M

80 Planar

HP5

Gary

 

Wow Gary very nice relief and I think Eoin will be glad

Also nice tone in b&w

He'll stop now to look for trees after watching your picture

Best

Henry

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[Doc Henry]

How important is it to have the stop and fixer at 20 deg

I know the Dev needs to be but??

 

You need only for developer (20-22°C) , not for fixer

In winter water here is at 15°C

Henry

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

You need only for developer (20-22°C) , not for fixer

In winter water here is at 15°C

Henry

cheers mate. Away to devolop 9 sheets of 4x5

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

You need only for developer (20-22°C) , not for fixer

In winter water here is at 15°C

Henry

cheers mate. Away to devolop 9 sheets of 4x5

[Doc Henry]

cheers mate. Away to devolop 9 sheets of 4x5 :)

 

Neil you mean develop film negative or paper silver print ?

If print , It's better you don't have water too much cold that's all

My reply above is for film

H

 

If it's for negative , I continue

for stop with acetic acid or white vinegar 8-10% bought in super market

I think it's better  you keep the same temperature between all the steps of dev.

 

When I dev color negative , dev. - acetic ac.and fixer must be at the same

temperture

(38°C or 30°C).

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[chris_livsey]

Chris your sand is in relief 3D on my Eizo screen

Very nice effect

Thanks for posting

Henry

[Fotoklaus]

How important is it to have the stop and fixer at 20 deg

I know the Dev needs to be but??

It´s not that important, but i won´t push up the difference too much. But if the stop- or the fixing bath is at 22 or 23°C, I won´t care about.

[Doc Henry]

You take me back to 1983 when I used to take my K1000 into the dermatology clinic where I was working to take photos of curious rashes. It was my ambition then to capture the strangely beautiful fluorescence of a fungal rash under Wood's Light (UV). I never succeeded!

 

C.

 

Yes Chris it's  another richness of photography, take pictures of all these diseases

specially in dermatology. At this time, digital doesn't exist  and film is available

I don't regret to take pictures of my patients and after to teach my students

Very nice fluorescence when you see Fungus disease under UV light

I must have some pictures in one file

Best

Henry

Edited April 27, 2017 by Doc Henry

[EoinC]

How important is it to have the stop and fixer at 20 deg

I know the Dev needs to be but??

I would say not at all important, Neil. I don't worry about the temperature. The stop is just neutralizing the developer, and preventing further development. If I'm concerned about the fixer, I test an off-cut of the same film type, and see how long it takes to turn clear (or as clear as it's going to get). I then use 2 - 2.5 times that time on the exposed film. Over-fixing is not usually a problem. Under-fixing can be.

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Hallo,

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[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

I would say not at all important, Neil. I don't worry about the temperature. The stop is just neutralizing the developer, and preventing further development. If I'm concerned about the fixer, I test an off-cut of the same film type, and see how long it takes to turn clear (or as clear as it's going to get). I then use 2 - 2.5 times that time on the exposed film. Over-fixing is not usually a problem. Under-fixing can be.

 

Cheers mate

Thats me just finished developing the 9 sheets of 4 x 5 , 7 of the negs look great two look a little dark (light on the neg) which might account for the bellows extension that I didn't account for.........I thought about it then went just leave it alone................I will know tomorrow when I scan them.

I had a lot of fun today shooting this film, I'm loving that 360mm Nikor that I bought off of eBay, I just love the whole ambulance of shooting with this 4 x 5, I'm not sure Nuk thinks the same, but I think she would rather put up with my BS rather than me taking out young models for a photo shoot....I wonder why :)