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Adam .... to delight the eyes and see the beautiful color (without correction with photo software)

 

In these countries the colors are varied and it is a joy to photograph, in addition the people are friendly,kind, helpful and allow themselves to be photographed :)

 

a good test for this great film :)

 

lanterns are one of my favorite photographic subjects because they are always full of color

 

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shopping stalls are stunning with the colors and the clothes are cheap and are the finest

 

 

SE Asia

March 2014

Kodak Portra 400

Leica M7

Summilux 50 Asph

 

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Henry

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Fish remains the basic food with rice !

For technical part, I find these unusual colors for a Westerner like us.

This very special blue color that are found anywhere ... except maybe in London :)

Kodak Portra film captures well enough that particular blue color !

 

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M7

90 Macro-Elmar (very lightweight lens 450g and a great combo for street photos)

Kodak Portra 400

 

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Henry

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Lovely atmospheric images in #2593 & #2594!

 

As to sharpening, what software are you using?

 

Thanks Keith. I have used Apple Aperture for a long time but more recently I've been trying to get the hang of Photoshop and I'm a bit lost with the unsharp mask.

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I do most of my processing in LR5 (Windows 7). The image is then opened up in PS (I have CS4) where I make any final changes and resize for chosen output (mostly for the web). Having flattened the image, I make a background copy then Filter/Other/High Pass. Set the resulting slider to 8.7 then click OK. Picture goes horribly grey but worry not! In the Layers drop down box, change 'Normal' to 'Soft Light' - sanity is restored. Now for the piece-de-resistance.

 

Grab hold of the greyed-out square in the background copy layer and whilst holding down the Alt key, pull it down to the mask icon (the one to the right of 'fx'). This creates a black square alongside the grey one and the high-pass sharpening effects disappear from the image. Click on the paintbrush tool and change to a suitable size. Make sure the foreground colour is white. You can then 'paint-in' the sharpening effect on the desired areas (for example, I avoid sharpening skies, clouds etc). After painting in the effect you can alter the amount of sharpening with the opacity slider. Flatten the image and job done. Works for me!

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I do most of my processing in LR5 (Windows 7). The image is then opened up in PS (I have CS4) where I make any final changes and resize for chosen output (mostly for the web). Having flattened the image, I make a background copy then Filter/Other/High Pass. Set the resulting slider to 8.7 then click OK. Picture goes horribly grey but worry not! In the Layers drop down box, change 'Normal' to 'Soft Light' - sanity is restored. Now for the piece-de-resistance.

 

Grab hold of the greyed-out square in the background copy layer and whilst holding down the Alt key, pull it down to the mask icon (the one to the right of 'fx'). This creates a black square alongside the grey one and the high-pass sharpening effects disappear from the image. Click on the paintbrush tool and change to a suitable size. Make sure the foreground colour is white. You can then 'paint-in' the sharpening effect on the desired areas (for example, I avoid sharpening skies, clouds etc). After painting in the effect you can alter the amount of sharpening with the opacity slider. Flatten the image and job done. Works for me!

 

Thanks for this Keith i'll give it a go. Incidentally whats the best way to resiz for the web?

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James - A fine output. Good exposure. colors as they should be. Red halos a glow. All in sync. Now let's see some more!

 

Thank you for this compliment! As I said before, this film is not that easy for me to handle. I also have to check my light meter, as many pictures on this roll seem to be underexposed. While trying to find the right exposure, I get those blue or magenta hues in the shadows.

 

Anyway, I will buy some more rolls and continue my tests:) Here two more shots:

 

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Both: M4-P - Cron 35 - Cinestill 800T

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Thank you for this compliment! As I said before, this film is not that easy for me to handle. I also have to check my light meter, as many pictures on this roll seem to be underexposed. While trying to find the right exposure, I get those blue or magenta hues in the shadows.

 

Anyway, I will buy some more rolls and continue my tests:) Here two more shots:

 

 

Both: M4-P - Cron 35 - Cinestill 800T[/center]

James , Cinestill 800T gives a vivid color . I am impressed :)

You corrected before posting ?

Thanks for sharing

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Henry

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Thanks James for your reply

It looks good your setting :)

 

 

Some macrophotos now

 

Which you prefer as film ?

 

Bergger 400

 

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or Kodak TX 400

 

 

M7

90 MacroElmar

+ Macroadapter

+ tripod

Uncropped

 

Thanks for commenting and looking :)

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Henry

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Colour this time. Kodak Portra. M6 and Konica Hexanon M 50mm

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Edited by poppers
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M6 zeiss 35 biogon f2. Kodak Portra

 

Morning fog on the beach Normandy.

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I've been trying to get the hang of Photoshop and I'm a bit lost with the unsharp mask.

 

I use USM mainly in two ways. The normal way - with a fairly high %, a low radius (<1 typically) and a low threshold - will sharpen the image evenly and punch up (or exaggerate) grain. This is the sharpening I normally use just before finalising an image (for web or print).

 

The other way is to invert the % and the radius, i.e. set a low % (around 10) and then move radius to very high, around 100. This will give an effect similar to what Clarity does but much more softly. It increases the contrast in the image (though I'm not sure if that's what happens technically; it gives that effect though). I find this type of sharpening useful on some images where a bit more bite is necessary. Other contrast enhancing tools (like Contrast, Levels or Curves to name a few) are not as subtle, in my experience.

 

Philip

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