I like film...(open thread)

[fotomas]

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Looking for some advice here, does this camera have light leaks or did I just really screw up the developing?

 

Olympus XA2, Ilford XP2, one roll developed in 300ml of HC-110 E (1:47) for 10 minutes. I did 10 inversions to start, then 4 every minute. Every frame exhibits the same flat tone, grain and sprocket hole shadows.

 

This is the first time I have developed XP2 in black and white chemicals so I figure the lack of tone and grain are something I did wrong, I'm hoping the sprocket hole shadows are also bad developing but I am going to run a roll of TMax 400 in the next couple of days to see if I get the same marks.

 

What do you think?

Could be that it is not properly fixed. If the fix was to weak or to short you could probably see a fine milky haze in parts that should be clear. Normally this has a slightly orange to red tint, but may be hard to detect on a XP2 since the whole film looks milky if wet.

[Wayne]

Could be that it is not properly fixed. If the fix was to weak or to short you could probably see a fine milky haze in parts that should be clear. Normally this has a slightly orange to red tint, but may be hard to detect on a XP2 since the whole film looks milky if wet.

I thought I had a "weak fixer" problem once. I heard/read that you could re fix finished negatives. As the shots were not that important to me, I geve it a try. I worked. It turns out that the problem was weak fixer. Unfortunately, I do not remember exactly what the negatives looked like, but do remember that the photos had very weak contrast and appeared hazy.

 

Best,

 

Wayne

 

P.S. I have also heard that TMax film is very tough on fixer, i.e. a batch of fixer will weaken faster when used on TMax.

[fotomas]

P.S. I have also heard that TMax film is very tough on fixer, i.e. a batch of fixer will weaken faster when used on TMax.

This is true. But on TMax it is a good indicator that the fixer gets weak if the film stays magenta.

Normally double the time it needs the film to become transparent is the proper time for fixing. But for TMax better triple that time.

[philipus]

That should be strong enough for one roll so unless you reused the HC-110 the developer should not be the reason.

 

For dilution E at 10 mins I guess you used 20 C as temperature? And did you have the fixer and stop at similar temp? And how old is the fixer? And did you expose the film at 400 or push it?

 

I believe bromide drag is fixed by slightly more agitation. That said, I typically use about the same amount as you did and usually don't get bromide drag.

 

 

Looking for some advice here, does this camera have light leaks or did I just really screw up the developing?

 

Olympus XA2, Ilford XP2, one roll developed in 300ml of HC-110 E (1:47) for 10 minutes. I did 10 inversions to start, then 4 every minute. Every frame exhibits the same flat tone, grain and sprocket hole shadows.

 

This is the first time I have developed XP2 in black and white chemicals so I figure the lack of tone and grain are something I did wrong, I'm hoping the sprocket hole shadows are also bad developing but I am going to run a roll of TMax 400 in the next couple of days to see if I get the same marks.

 

What do you think?

 

Sheet066_004.jpg

 

Sheet066_006.jpg

 

Sheet066_012.jpg

[chrism]

I don't think a light leak in the camera is involved: why would it mark the film from each sprocket hole? Those marks are due to a difference in the development of the film adjacent to the sprocket holes, which usually means turbulent flow through the hole is increasing the effective agitation in that area alone. I've seen it when plunging a loaded reel into developer, or when adding developer too slowly to a reel already in a tank. It used to happen with the monobath I experimented with until I figured out an answer. Were you agitating by inverting the tank? If so, was it a single reel tank, or a bigger one? I'm wondering about , say, a half-full two reel tank causing a lot of sloshing of the solution. I doubt the use of 1+47 made any difference - I just use 1+49 as the arithmetic is easier.

[philipus]

It's not even sharp but I like it. I'm amazed that people allow themselves to walk, drive or even cycle while using their phones. 

 

Nice

 

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50/1.4A Fuji Pro 160S

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

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This is true. But on TMax it is a good indicator that the fixer gets weak if the film stays magenta.

Normally double the time it needs the film to become transparent is the proper time for fixing. But for TMax better triple that time.

I've stopped using Trix320 and Tmax. I am now using ilford HP5+ and that clears beautifully after 5 minutes fixing 

 

Neil

[Wayne]

I realize I am pushing the boundaries on "image quality". There is, of course, a story.

 

I was taking photographs in Cincinnati on Saturday morning. While there, I took a few shots of some pretty impressive "wall art." On my way home I decided to swing through a small Indiana town, Aurora, that is not too far from my home. My intention was to finish off the roll of Adox Color Implosion I had slit and loaded into Minox B camera. Well, I shot a few things, got in my car and headed out of town via a different route........Fortunately I had two frames left in the Minox. Well, just before hitting the main road to home, I spied a couple guys putting the finishing touches on a pretty spectacular piece of wall art depicting an old, horse-drawn fire engine. I had to meet them. Turns out, they are responsible for most of the art I had been admiring that morning in Cincinnati. Of course, they agreed to take part in my Minox/Color Implosion experiment.

 

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[Wayne]

I took the liberty of changing the temperature a bit (Lightroom) for the second shot.

 

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Minox B, Adox Color Implosion

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Salt Lick

M6ttl HP5 Scanned with Epson V850 and Epson software

Neil

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[mikemgb]

Could be that it is not properly fixed. If the fix was to weak or to short you could probably see a fine milky haze in parts that should be clear. Normally this has a slightly orange to red tint, but may be hard to detect on a XP2 since the whole film looks milky if wet.

 

 

That should be strong enough for one roll so unless you reused the HC-110 the developer should not be the reason.

 

For dilution E at 10 mins I guess you used 20 C as temperature? And did you have the fixer and stop at similar temp? And how old is the fixer? And did you expose the film at 400 or push it?

 

I believe bromide drag is fixed by slightly more agitation. That said, I typically use about the same amount as you did and usually don't get bromide drag.

 

 

Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

All the chemicals were at 20c. It was a two reel tank with an empty reel on top to keep everything in place. I did agitate by inversion.

 

The fix is three moths old. It worked fine on the other two films that evening but the XP2 was last. I'm going to try re-fixing this evening to see if that makes a difference.

[Steve Ricoh]

I realize I am pushing the boundaries on "image quality". There is, of course, a story.I was taking photographs in Cincinnati on Saturday morning. While there, I took a few shots of some pretty impressive "wall art." On my way home I decided to swing through a small Indiana town, Aurora, that is not too far from my home. My intention was to finish off the roll of Adox Color Implosion I had slit and loaded into Minox B camera. Well, I shot a few things, got in my car and headed out of town via a different route........Fortunately I had two frames left in the Minox. Well, just before hitting the main road to home, I spied a couple guys putting the finishing touches on a pretty spectacular piece of wall art depicting an old, horse-drawn fire engine. I had to meet them. Turns out, they are responsible for most of the art I had been admiring that morning in Cincinnati. Of course, they agreed to take part in my Minox/Color Implosion experiment.img407.JPG

Interesting story behind your image making, ...just got to love the shot (I much prefer the warmer version, incidentally). Just imagining you slitting the film in complete darkness (or possibly in a changing bag) indicates a labour of love, for art sake. Your images are, I believe, truly unique.

[chrism]

Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

All the chemicals were at 20c. It was a two reel tank with an empty reel on top to keep everything in place. I did agitate by inversion.

 

The fix is three moths old. It worked fine on the other two films that evening but the XP2 was last. I'm going to try re-fixing this evening to see if that makes a difference.

 

If the tank only had enough chemical in it to cover the bottom reel that could be the answer.

[A miller]

I realize I am pushing the boundaries on "image quality". There is, of course, a story.

 

I was taking photographs in Cincinnati on Saturday morning. While there, I took a few shots of some pretty impressive "wall art." On my way home I decided to swing through a small Indiana town, Aurora, that is not too far from my home. My intention was to finish off the roll of Adox Color Implosion I had slit and loaded into Minox B camera. Well, I shot a few things, got in my car and headed out of town via a different route........Fortunately I had two frames left in the Minox. Well, just before hitting the main road to home, I spied a couple guys putting the finishing touches on a pretty spectacular piece of wall art depicting an old, horse-drawn fire engine. I had to meet them. Turns out, they are responsible for most of the art I had been admiring that morning in Cincinnati. Of course, they agreed to take part in my Minox/Color Implosion experiment.

 

img407.JPG

 

 

I took the liberty of changing the temperature a bit (Lightroom) for the second shot.

 

img411.JPG

 

Minox B, Adox Color Implosion

 

wow, these are really unique, Wayne!  

[A miller]

Under the Millennium Bridge in London.

SWC, Ektar

 

 

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[mikemgb]

If the tank only had enough chemical in it to cover the bottom reel that could be the answer.

 

I wondered about that too. I do that a lot with other films but maybe XP2 is more picky?

 

Anyway, I'm not giving up, I've seen your results, I just have to figure out what I did wrong!

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

A couple of 135 shots taken with mt M6ttl (going to keep that camera now)

I am using my Epson V850 scanner to scan the negs and LC29 to develop the Hp5 film

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[Bateleur]

For Doc Henry and his love of the mountains - Vercors Massif - July 2017

 

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Leica MP - 25mm Biogon - Ilford Delta 100 - Rodinal

[chrism]

Under the Millennium Bridge in London.

SWC, Ektar

 

 

Ooh - converting colour film to B&W! If that doesn't draw Henry out of his lair I don't know what will. Lovely pic though.

 

On a whim this afternoon I decided to run an XP2 through at ASA 1600, but lacking a (willing) subject I decided to use 120 film as there would be fewer frames to expose. Then my motorised Rondinax died just as I was about to add the developer (which takes 18 minutes at this speed). My poor, pulseless right arm (I was daft enough to thrombose my brachial artery) is a bit sore after twiddling the Rondinax knob for 18 minutes of development, one minute of stop bath, five minutes of fixer and then ten minutes of washing. Fortunately, I was able to take apart the motor and its gear train and clean and lubricate everything so it works again. Maybe something to post later.

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Hallo,

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[Robert M Poole]

Dal Lake by Robert Michael Poole, on Flickr