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I like film...(open thread)

Doc Henry

By Doc Henry
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Michael Hiles
Michael Hiles

Bonjour Henri,   I still prefer black and white film (I use almost no colour). The advantages of digital don’t mean much to me. Seeing instant results is not so useful, since what comes out of a cam

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Kodak Ultramax & 35:1.4v2 , MP 

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This photo is from a series from some of my crazy, extreme photo adventures I  had photographing Mountains "Alpinists " and rock climbers. This is Alpes mountain range which is called   "Le Massive du

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So many exotic locations and great photographs, very awesome!

Film in all four corners of the globe and from the highest peaks to the bottom of the Dead Sea too, fantastic.

 

 

A couple of less exotic (to me at least) had-to-be-done vanishing point pictures with the SWC/M and Delta 400.

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Reeray

Reeray

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I think it looks very nice on it's own, but it's not the typical tri-x rendering, probably because it was scanned with a digital camera. I personally like these shots. Very nice!

Thanks Edward. I'm not yet sure what the "typical Tri-X" looks like, so some more experimenting to do. I figure that in reality I need to dev at home for this experiment. The labs, of course, will use use a one mix for all film process which may, or may not work. It's been 30 years since I did home dev, should be fun!

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AntonioF

AntonioF

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A couple more with Tri-X and the M3 to see if I'm on the right track

 

Thanks for any advise

 

 

 

 

 

Really sharp! This weekend I should be able to try a digital camera scan with a Componon lens I found in England. I'm waiting for the last adapter. I'm really curious! I'll try with a tripod and if it works I'll have to build a diy/macgyver beoon copy stand! 

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Doc Henry

Doc Henry

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This is masterful colour photography! I've been looking at some colour landscapes done in digital on another thread - then when you see what is achieved in extremely talented hands with great eyes and alert minds on film - there really is (for me at least) no comparison. Film has a life, vitality and presence that is all its own.

 

First JM wonderful color in these pictures no equivalent elsewhere (even M10) and I agree with Phil

 

Only film can have this rendering , this deep and soft color in the same time, this relief , this

"no-aggressiveness" when watching with these "soft" lines and edges not hypersharp  (and don't forget

obligatory scanner step of digitalization , if not , it will be better)

Thanks for posting JM

 

and as said JM "Que Viva Velvia"

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Doc Henry

Doc Henry

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Really sharp! This weekend I should be able to try a digital camera scan with a Componon lens I found in England. I'm waiting for the last adapter. I'm really curious! I'll try with a tripod and if it works I'll have to build a diy/macgyver beoon copy stand! 

 

Antonio, I am not a fan for beoon scan ... it's like you shoot in digital

Sorry to be frank ! we use "film" and as said Phil above to escape this

system and we fall again in !

... but it's better you make a comparison between beoon and scanner

to see and if you can , please post here the result

Best regards

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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AntonioF

AntonioF

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Antonio, I am not a fan for beoon scan ... it's like you shoot in digital

Sorry to be frank ! we use "film" and as said Phil above to escape this

system and we fall again in !

... but it's better you make a comparison between beoon and scanner

to see and if you can , please post here the result

Best regards

Henry

Henry,

I understand your point but the flatbed scanner I have (Epson V600) does not seem to perform well for 35mm. If the unsharp setting is on, it oversharpens everything. If the setting is off, the scan is really soft and must be sharpened via software. I have been using this second option with this workflow:

1 scan at 2400/3200 dpi with no sharpening

2 save to tiff

3 correction/cleaning in Lightroom

4 export to JPG

5 sharpening in Photoshop with high pass filter (I have automated this last step so I can sharpen all the photos together)

 

Unfortunately there's a lot of digital also in this process.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Doc Henry

Doc Henry

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Henry,

I understand your point but the flatbed scanner I have (Epson V600) does not seem to perform well for 35mm. If the unsharp setting is on, it oversharpens everything. If the setting is off, the scan is really soft and must be sharpened via software. I have been using this second option with this workflow:

1 scan at 2400/3200 dpi with no sharpening

2 save to tiff

3 correction/cleaning in Lightroom

4 export to JPG

5 sharpening in Photoshop with high pass filter (I have automated this last step so I can sharpen all the photos together)

 

Unfortunately there's a lot of digital also in this process.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Antonio as I said to Jakob (TMx) with his V600, buy Epson V700 or V750 second hand better than V600

at a reasonable price around 200-250 Euros. In addition take "ANR Glass of betterscanning"  to increase

the rendering.

I admit with you that when you scan you digitalize. Better is print through your enlarger !

Thanks for your reply

Best

Henry

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Reeray

Reeray

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@ Henry, I have exactly the flatbed setup you recommend, I.e. Epsom V750, Betterscan ANR adapter etc.

It's total rubbish with 35mm.

Looks good at web size, but that's all. It's fine with MF but in all aspects it's really just a compromise to a dedicated scanner or a high res digitised scan.

I wouldn't recommend a flatbed for 35mm. The Beoon which you dislike leaves it way behind and Digitised scans can be manipulated to accentuate sharpness or otherwise. Just as we did years back with soft effect filters or indeed development processes to adjust to taste.

What is interesting however is flatbed scanning a print. This produces some lovely tones (don't know how).

 

I've posted this image previously but it's a good example of a flatbed scanned print, which it is.

 

17816320080_910e7a8528_b.jpg

Edited by Reeray
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edwardkaraa

edwardkaraa

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@ Henry, I have exactly the flatbed setup you recommend, I.e. Epsom V750, Betterscan ANR adapter etc.

 

It's total rubbish with 35mm.

 

Looks good at web size, but that's all. It's fine with MF but in all aspects it's really just a compromise to a dedicated scanner or a high res digitised scan.

 

I wouldn't recommend a flatbed for 35mm. The Beoon which you dislike leaves it way behind and Digitised scans can be manipulated to accentuate sharpness or otherwise. Just as we did years back with soft effect filters or indeed development processes to adjust to taste.

 

What is interesting however is flatbed scanning a print. This produces some lovely tones (don't know how).

 

I've posted this image previously but it's a good example of a flatbed scanned print, which it is.

 

 

Curiously, I think it is an excellent scan and I really like the tonality. This is much better than the previous post in my humble opinion. Film scans get softer with size, so it's very normal that scans look soft at large scanning resolutions. If you inspect film grain at high magnification with microscope or high magnification loupe, all you see is clouds :)

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Steve Ricoh

Steve Ricoh

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Thanks Edward. I'm not yet sure what the "typical Tri-X" looks like, so some more experimenting to do. I figure that in reality I need to dev at home for this experiment. The labs, of course, will use use a one mix for all film process which may, or may not work. It's been 30 years since I did home dev, should be fun!

Ray, from discussions we've had elsewhere, you use a BEOON plus enlarger lens (I'm heading in the same direction). What digital camera did you use and how much or little post processing did you give, inversion of course, a bit with curves or did you push the contrast slider?

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Reeray

Reeray

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Ray, from discussions we've had elsewhere, you use a BEOON plus enlarger lens (I'm heading in the same direction). What digital camera did you use and how much or little post processing did you give, inversion of course, a bit with curves or did you push the contrast slider?

 

I use a Fuji XT-1, simply because that camera has live view and my other digital cameras don't. It was a PITA getting the correct tubes as neither combination of Beoon tubes works. In the end I got a set of Ebay. 

 

PP is minimal. I digitise for a flat full range, import straight into Photoshop, invert and then over to Niks SEFX. I have a few pre-sets that I use involving curves, contrast, etc. I'd say 5 minutes per image.

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Steve Ricoh

Steve Ricoh

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I use a Fuji XT-1, simply because that camera has live view and my other digital cameras don't. It was a PITA getting the correct tubes as neither combination of Beoon tubes works. In the end I got a set of Ebay. 

 

PP is minimal. I digitise for a flat full range, import straight into Photoshop, invert and then over to Niks SEFX. I have a few pre-sets that I use involving curves, contrast, etc. I'd say 5 minutes per image.

My time is soon here, delivery today :)

I'll be using my M240 with 50mm Summilux initially, will move to enlarger lens no doubt (El-Nikkor plentiful). I have LR, PS (CS6) and Nik suite to play with, but lightly.

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