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Alt. 11.000 m - speed 1100 Km/h - < 54°C temp outside

Airbus A350

 

 

Sunset on Asia :)

 

 

Kodak Portra 160

(home dev Tetenal C41) 

Uncorrected

M7-35 Summilux Asph

 

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Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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I get it :)

 

As boats seem to go well in this thread, here is another take on that theme - seen in Norsminde/Denmarkl:

 

attachicon.gifBild-1-399.jpg

Mamiya 645 1000s - Konica Centuria 100 (long expired)

 

 

And once again a slice of Baltic Sea;

 

attachicon.gifBild-2-21.jpg

Same setup as above

Love these, James.  Beautiful airy feeling and the blues, aquas and greens are really lovely.

 

Alt. 11.000 m - speed 1100 Km/h - < 54°C temp outside

Airbus A350

 

 

Sunset on Asia :)

 

 

Kodak Portra 160

(home dev Tetenal C41) 

Uncorrected

M7-35 Summilux Asph

 

attachicon.gifImage11vnesunsetkp160lfht+++600.jpg

 

Best

Henry

Very nice, Henry.  But wait a minute - is that artificial vignetting that you have added to your otherwise organically pure film photo?? :)

 

More Tri-X:

 

29650905456_4546824933_c.jpg

Rushton's Creek by chrism229, on Flickr

 

Chris

 

Love that Tri-X...

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A break from the water of the Dead Sea and a quick pivot a little inland...

 

Sand Dunes leading to Masada (which is at the top of the mountain on the far upper left with the zigzag bright lines leading up the mountain)

Israel

SWC, Velvia 50

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Edited by A miller
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HI Henry....It's Marc.....what are your thoughts on a system like this for home developing? 

Marc,

Not sure if anyone has actually given you their full thoughts on your question.

 

I've home processed for years 50 or so years. But only B&W. I've never tried C41 or E6, never.

 

The auction you linked to is what I'd say the ultimate DIY kit would include, and if the seller is close to you (don't know, but NY?) then I'd say even if you pay a bit more than ordinarily you would expect, it would be worth it.

 

Do you need it? That's the question. It's equivalent to a fair bit of over the counter developing though, cost wise. BUT......... as the Doc will always tell you, nobody does it better than yourself. Only you can decide that.

 

In essence, any processing can be done with a bare minimum of actual gear, simple tank, some graduates, and a decent thermometer, plus the chemicals of course. Just depends on whether you want THE best, or are happy to just process with a simple gear.

 

Either way, only you can decide.

Gary

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Hi Henry,

 

The 1500 series tank can process 2-35mm or 2-120mm per session.  It says that a Minimum solution amount 270ml for rotary and 270ml for inversion agitation for 1-35mm film reel.

Thank you Marc so you know the CPE.

If you find a good price, buy it !

Best

Henry

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Adam to reply about vignetting , I think it's may be a "porthole" effect
and also effect of WA especially the 35 or mostly 28 vignette much :)

 

Another picture with less vignetting for you :)

here I stuck the lens on the window

 

Sunset at minus 54°C and at 11.000 m

 

 

M7-35 Lux Asph-Kodak Portra 160

no correction including vignetting :)

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Another sunset for Adam :)  but on earth

 

 

Quang Nam beach 5 am early in the morning.

 

 

Kodak TMax100 (dev in D76 pure)

MP-50 Summilux Asph

 

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Henry

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Phu Ninh mountain range

 

 

Kodak Ektar 100

(dev home Tetenal C41)

Leica M7-35 Summilux Asph

 

 

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Rg

Henry

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Hi Marc

 

Thanks for describing your workflow. It is impressively meticulous. I always find it interesting to learn how other photographers work.

 

I have both the G and GR trays. As you say the GR only allows one frame but does have ANR glass and permits rotating the neg a few degrees to straighten images. I have had Newton rings also with this tray and the rotating function isn't of much use since I've devised a way to straighten 6x6 images using some nifty Photoshop-Fu involving inverse selections and black Hasselblad frames that can be applied to a straightened image. 

 

I think I tried using the masks early on but I'll give that another try to check the results. Thank you for reminding me of this.

 

The G tray which I upgraded with the Focal Point ANR glass didn't really help much with the Newton rings. The irritating thing is that such rings don't always appear so it's hit or miss, which is frustrating due to loss of time. I guess with more careful handling on my part with respect to dust I could use the G tray and only the "ordinary" glass to get a flat scan but wet mounting isn't much of a hassle actually and it allows me to scan quite fast because I preview each frame at the scan DPI (in my case always 2000 which I think is a good time-quality balance) so there is only one pass.

 

br

Philip

 

 

Hi Philip,

 

I've been using the FH-869G which can do 3 6x6 frames at once or 2 6x7s.  I believe the GR allows only one frame.  I've found that if your negatives are flat, Newton Rings tend not to be a problem with this tray.  Also, did you try using the various masks that are suggested to eliminate the rings?  My workflow is the following:

 

1) I wear a pair of nylon based, non cotton gloves.  Makes everything a lot easier for me (no finger prints on negatives or glass)

2) I take a look through the tray and make sure the glass is clean on all sides 

3) I then have the the tray sitting open, ready to accept the negative

4) I grab the negative a brush it off with a dust removal brush

5) I then give it a quick wipe with a dust removal cloth

6) I then blow off the negative with a Giottos Rocket Blaster

7) Then take the Rocket Blaster and quickly blast both sides of the inside glass of the tray

8) Quickly insert the negative and close the tray

9) Blast the outside glass of the tray

10) Insert tray into the coolscan 9000

 

I tend to get good dust free results.  

 

 

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Perhaps I can burden the thread with this, three photos of the same motif. Which one don't you like and why (more interesting to ask than which one you like and why :) )?

 

They differ a bit in terms of post-processing, sorry about that, but I'm more curious here about preferences regarding composition.

 

Thanks for your thoughts

 

 

TTL 50 Summicron (11817) Rollei Retro 80S in Diafine

 

29348931050_0df8392baf_b.jpg

Flickr

 

29657677476_f2bbba6ea5_b.jpg

Flickr

 

29015466433_034ec2f216_b.jpg

Flickr

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Philip,

You asked, otherwise I would not be critical.

My favourite is the middle/darker of the three. Which means my least liked is split between the other two. Mainly because I feel the two are foggy looking. I like the more defined darker tone.

Gary

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