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A couple of my latest. The Nina and Pinta replicas on the Mississippi.

 

Leica IIIa, Jupiter 8, Ilford FP4

 

 

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The great American pastime, baseball.

 

Leica IIIa, Elmar 5.0cm

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Edited by mikemgb
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Hey there...if one was going to develop at home, what are you thoughts on something like this or something equivalent?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOBO-CPE2-Film-Processor-w-CPE2-Lift-Extra-tanks-spare-parts-etc-/142113758217?hash=item2116a3dc09:g:~TUAAOSwvzRX1H68

 

Thanks!

Tony  Marc it's an auction , he will win big the guy :)

In France we can have almost new state CPE for 300-400 E

Meanwhile I turned by hand and I finished my developments

It tooks me a few days to develop all

H.

Edited by Doc Henry
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Marc, I finished my developments by hand to day and I'm glad , no roll is damaging

by scan airport security gates with anti X Rays Domke bag.

 

Here is the result of Kodak Portra 160 , colors are beautiful for me

and is better than on my 2 M digital in comparison , more vivid color

and more consistent ,  no synthesis picture effect  !!!
Superiority of the film !


 

I will give the title to this photo : "The little girl and the balloon seller" :)
It is remarkable this seller, he shapes balloons depending what the girl asks :)

Full of people look at him 

 

Hoi An street photos

5 pm

 

KP 160-Leica M7-Summilux 35 Asph

 

 

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Rg

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Hi Philip,

 

I've been using the FH-869G which can do 3 6x6 frames at once or 2 6x7s.  I believe the GR allows only one frame.  I've found that if your negatives are flat, Newton Rings tend not to be a problem with this tray.  Also, did you try using the various masks that are suggested to eliminate the rings?  My workflow is the following:

 

1) I wear a pair of nylon based, non cotton gloves.  Makes everything a lot easier for me (no finger prints on negatives or glass)

2) I take a look through the tray and make sure the glass is clean on all sides 

3) I then have the the tray sitting open, ready to accept the negative

4) I grab the negative a brush it off with a dust removal brush

5) I then give it a quick wipe with a dust removal cloth

6) I then blow off the negative with a Giottos Rocket Blaster

7) Then take the Rocket Blaster and quickly blast both sides of the inside glass of the tray

8) Quickly insert the negative and close the tray

9) Blast the outside glass of the tray

10) Insert tray into the coolscan 9000

 

I tend to get good dust free results.  

 

 

 

 

Hi Philip - I really appreciate the insights.   Thanks very much for taking the time to share.  I use the glass film tray, I think it is the FH-869GR.  Seems to work ok and is a big improvement from the tray with no glass (and also this tray with the after-market glass, which didn't work for me).  But I am constantly looking for ways to optimize further.  Thanks again and I will study what you have shared.

 

 

My pleasure, Adam. If you decide to go this route let me know and I'll explain the various trix one can employ a bit further. Btw, I also tried that glass (Focal Point, I think it is) and found that the frosty glass doesn't remove Newton rings. It was increadibly frustrating so I ditched it. With wet mounting there's sometimes minor marks, for instance from air bubbles or dust that has been IR'd away, but they're very easy to remove in post. Not so with Newton rings which simply ruin a good scan. I have on occasion used the thin normal (non-frosty) glass to keep negs flat but the time outlay of wet mounting is worth it, particularly with b&w, because dust is virtually always hidden by the fluid. 

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Do you think a CPE is worth the investment?  It seems to help make the process easier to execute. I think they also make a TBE which keeps the temp but no auto agitation .

 

 

 

Tony  Marc it's an auction , he will win big the guy :)

In France we can have almost new state CPE for 300-400 E

Meanwhile I turned by hand and I finished my developments
It tooks me a few days to develop all

H.

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Ektachrome Elite 100 ASA nominal.

 

Paul

 

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Do you think a CPE is worth the investment?  It seems to help make the process easier to execute. I think they also make a TBE which keeps the temp but no auto agitation .

 

Marc yes  if you love film color (and you're right) and shoot a lot

If you guy here has this machine, can you intervene to help Marc ? :)

 

One question I want to ask : how much volume should be put in for the film to be developed ?

500 ml , 1 liter, more

My installation water bath costs me 180 Euros !

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Ektachrome 100 ASA nominal.

 

Paul

 

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Hi Henry,

 

The 1500 series tank can process 2-35mm or 2-120mm per session.  It says that a Minimum solution amount 270ml for rotary and 270ml for inversion agitation for 1-35mm film reel.

 

Marc yes  if you love film color (and you're right) and shoot a lot

If you guy here has this machine, can you intervene to help Marc ? :)
 

One question I want to ask : how much volume should be put in for the film to be developed ?
500 ml , 1 liter, more ? 

My installation water bath costs me 180 Euros !

Best

Henry

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Shy; still caught on Ektachrome 100.

 

Paul

 

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I recently found in a box this twenty-year old Ektachrome 100 slide. It's a non-Leica shot (I think it was taken with a Nikon F-801S and a 50mm f1.4 Nikkor lens), otherwise I would have posted it as a "How about a thread full of trees?" image. It would compare favourably to an analogous tree photograph, shown and commented in http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/262589-previsualisation-sic//

 

I'm sure you see what I mean.

 

Paul

 

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I recently found in a box this twenty-year old Ektachrome 100 slide. It's a non-Leica shot (I think it was taken with a Nikon F-801S and a 50mm f1.4 Nikkor lens), otherwise I would have posted it as a "How about a thread full of trees?" image. It would compare favourably to an analogous tree photograph, shown and commented in http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/262589-previsualisation-sic//

 

I'm sure you see what I mean.

 

Paul

 

attachicon.gifscan0310b.jpg

 

 

I get it :)

 

As boats seem to go well in this thread, here is another take on that theme - seen in Norsminde/Denmarkl:

 

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Mamiya 645 1000s - Konica Centuria 100 (long expired)

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And once again a slice of Baltic Sea;

 

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Same setup as above

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It's really nice Christoph

Superb image like a painting impressionist manner :)

Thanks for posting

Have you more ?

Best

Henry

Henry,

 

Of course I have more pictures from the Provence, (most of them are sharp however - no more impressionism),

I'll post some for you in the near future :)

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

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