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Tmax 400, pushed to 800, Summilux 50

best regards

Marc

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Are you allowed tripods at the top of the Freedom Towers and are you enclosed in glass etc ? It doesn't look like it ! Lovely colours.

Are these buildings known as 'Brown Stones' or is that for the more exclusive buildings in Manhattan ?

 

Hi David - funny you should ask.  Tripods are not allowed but I was able to get away with using mine in a somewhat discrete fashion (I stayed crouched for the 3 hours and didn't extend any of the legs).  And apparently Lenskirts are not allowed either bu the security officer was nice enough to inform me of this about 10 minutes before we were going to leave.  The buildings in the distant background are not "brownstones" per se.  They are just brown-looking buildings :)  

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From the Brooklyn Bridge, looking at the Manhattan Bridge...

M3, 135mm Tele-Elmar, TMax 400

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Edited by A miller
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24756122535_b8b3fb7cf5_b.jpgWeggis - Ilford Delta 100 by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

And now for something completely different...

 

My wife and I stayed at a small hotel on the Luzern lake (place called Weggis) and on the Sunday morning the weather was howling and 'orrible. So I popped out for a couple of hours with my M6 and an ND 10x filter (tripod , remote release, the usual). Anyways, Ilford Delta 100 and about four minutes of exposure, and this is one of the pickies that came out.

 

I've experimented with long exposures before, but made a few reciprocity failure mistakes. So now feeling like I'm at least getting to grips with the technique...

 

Ric

 

great start, Ric.  The composition lends itself well to the high contrast. 

 

The delta 100 is great, but for more manageable reciprocity failure you might also try Kodak Tmax 100, which doesn't really "fail" that much until you get over 1 minute.  

 

Tri-X and Ilford HP5 also don't perform well with long exposures.

 

Too long of exposure of B&W will lead to at least two potential consequences that should be kept in mind:

 

1.  Lack of sharpness.  Even with the best tripods, images can suffer from even slightly movement from wind and ground shake (e.g., if you are on a bridge or road with large cars/trucks passing).  Seems like your tripod is quite nifty and practical, which is great and will I'm sure serve you well.  I have one of those too for my Hasselblad and I have had some undesirable results, admittedly in some tough weather conditions and with a camera that it outside of the ideal weight for the tripod.  I find it a good rule of thumb to try to get what I want out of the long exposure and then close the shutter as soon as possible!

2.  Expanded contrast.  The longer you leave the shutter open when exposing B&W film, the more that you will expand the range of exposure zones, and the expansion will not be even and thus the lighter zones will expand much more than the darker zones.  So with a perfect exposure setting, which, for example, puts the darkest area that you want detail in zone 3 and the brightest area that you was detail at zone 7, the extra long exposure (and I mean more than a minute) will achieve the zone 3 with the dark area (as you wanted) but will likely put the brightest area in zone 8 or 9 rather than zone 7.  This is why with long exposures and B&W film one needs to find the right balance.  And It is also why those B&W films with good reciprocity failure characteristics can come in handy in these situations.  Having said all of this, in some situations the "expansion" of the tonal range can be an effective artistic tool.  Your photo is an example of this.

 

Congrats again on the great image and I'm looking forward to seeing more along these lines!

 

Best,

Adam

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I like this hread :) ,
we form a small community between friendly and nice gentlemen
and for nothing,  I'll post my photos elsewhere except for Robert
Thank you All  to make live this thread :)

 

Another picture of the peak of Europa

 

 

Kodak Elite Chrome 100

MP - 90 Cron

 

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Best

Henry

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Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Another trees in contre-jour :)

 

MP-50 LA-Ilford HP5

Nikon Coolscan 5000

 

Best

Henry

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To keep (somewhat) with the current theme: Trees of a different kind, at night, in Dijon.

 

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M6ttl, HP5, D76

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

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Palermo, Italy

M7, Summilux 50 v2, Fuji Superia X-Tra 400

 

Yes Massimo SUPERB at the right moment

I agree with Adam  :)

Best

Henry

 
Massimo, you said you do b&w with the MM and color with the M7

Have you done a test between the 2 types of images in b&w ?

More sensual and more artistic in film , IMHO

https://translate.google.fr/translate?sl=fr&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=fr&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.summilux.net%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D10%26t%3D51356&edit-text=

 

The original link (in french) for Massimo if he wishes to look at the links inside the text

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=51356

Edited by Doc Henry
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Some color now to forget cloudy and cold days of winter in Europa  :)

 

a friendly and smiling hello from Ninh Binh (VN) as we found everywhere in these countries :)

 

Fuji Velvia 50

M7-50 Lux A

 

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Vivid color from Fuji Velvia , also a great film and with Leica a great combo :)

Opinion of Adam ?

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Yes Massimo SUPERB at the right moment

I agree with Adam :)

Best

Henry

 

 

Massimo, you said you do b&w with the MM and color with the M7

Have you done a test between the 2 types of images in b&w ?

More sensual and more artistic in film , IMHO

https://translate.google.fr/translate?sl=fr&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=fr&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.summilux.net%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D10%26t%3D51356&edit-text=

Ciao Henry,

I do also B&W with the M7, I was use to do much more B&W in film when I had the M-E, but now when I'm in vacation I shot the M7 in color to make my wife happy :-) (but I like too a lot).

Apart the joke, the film is still my preferred way to shot both in B&W and Color, but I must admit that the MM makes an terrific B&W, very very similar to film (and in some situation superior). But it is not just the result, it is the way you use it, the MM must be used as an analog camera, with color filters etc.... it is the first digital camera that I really love.

Next time I load the M7 with a Tri-X I will make a 1to1 comparison with the MM and I will post here for you.

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Ciao Henry,

I do also B&W with the M7, I was use to do much more B&W in film when I had the M-E, but now when I'm in vacation I shot the M7 in color to make my wife happy :-) (but I like too a lot).

Apart the joke, the film is still my preferred way to shot both in B&W and Color, but I must admit that the MM makes an terrific B&W, very very similar to film (and in some situation superior). But it is not just the result, it is the way you use it, the MM must be used as an analog camera, with color filters etc.... it is the first digital camera that I really love.

Next time I load the M7 with a Tri-X I will make a 1to1 comparison with the MM and I will post here for you.

 

Hi Massimo, thanks for your reply and your offer . :)

 

The price in second hand of MM1 CCD sensor almost in new condition becomes interesting (around 3500-4000 A) : http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=74916

I also thought buying one  but ultimately I like the sensual side of the photo (seen in the photos of this pretty woman in the link), there is something more subtle , that only the eye can make the difference

That said MM1 is a great tool and very practical , I admit, but that can give some stress with dust on the sensor :D

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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M7, Summilux 50 v2, Fuji Superia X-Tra 400

9fb3ace7b6a4a663541c5f2e1ecb017a.jpg

Beautiful profile and well done Massimo

A  little blur side ,  which gives its charm to the picture

Only the film can do it with the background and bokeh a little soft and grainy :)

You have said "sensual" ? :)

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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