Inspired by Ken Rockwell

[Brenton C]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hello again Gentlemen,

 

I just want to post up that my M-3 with Summicron 50mm arrived yesterday, and to my added delight, it is almost as pristine as a brand new camera. Holding it in my hands, it is solid and heftier than I imagined. The moving things that I moved on lens and body were smooth and sure.

 

I can hardly wait to get out and run a test roll through it!

 

First I'll need a light meter, and also a lens cap.

 

If any have filter recommendations, I'd be eager to hear what I should do. I've read mixed reviews about skylight filters.

 

I anticipate most of what I'll be doing is out doors, colour, (though later , B& W), landscapes and some portraiture.

 

I understand Neutral Density filters (several?) are a good idea to retain access to more apertures.

 

Thanks for any comments here.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[xalo]

Hi Brenton,

 

Thanks for the feedback, great your M3 and Summicron are in so fine condition.

To get going, don't wait for a lightmeter. Take any 400 iso negative film, for colour e.g. Kodak Portra 400; or chromogenic (developed as colour) b&w film, Ilford XP2 or Kodak 400CN, and use the "sunny 16" rule. Documentation in many places on the web on this. If you have one of the pocket computers once known as "phone", you can also download free or inexpensive software to turn it into an (approximate) lightmeter.

I'll barely scratch the surface of the potentially *huge* filter (and hood) issue. You can dig the forum here and web for much much more. Based on my experience, as a start, I'd try to:

- find a lens hood, if there is none, which helps against flare and mechanically protects the front element. A Leica original bayonet hood (ideally a vented one, #12585) is great, but not cheap; vented screw-in (conical shape, 39mm for a 50 summicron) from China (e.g. see the famous auction place) can do well.

- Find a good UV filter, can be used, either Leica, Heliopan or B&W; it's not indispensable, but a protection, against dust, rain etc. Cleaning it is less dangerous than touching the front lens, especially the older ones with their softer coatings. If possible, remove the filter when taking pictures in flare prone situations, outside against the sun or a strongly reflecting surface, inside with strong light sources pointing at the lens etc. In those conditions, they all tend to generate ghost images or reflections to various degrees.

Optional:

- For black and white film, most used filters are yellow and orange, to enhance overall contrast, darken skies in contrast to clouds etc. A green filter can lighten foliage, some use it in portraiture. In short, they are add-ons which you may not need right away. Also, beware, they absorb light to varying degrees and you will need to adjust exposure for this.

- I'd forget ND filters for now, use slower film instead when you plan to use the lens wide open in bright light or slower speed to blur motion.

 

And most importantly, try not to think too much about the gear. Just attach *any* strap, take the combo out as is, play around with the controls to get used and take pictures. Even the mistakes are fun. Great results will come along. Enjoy all.

 

Cheers,

 

Alexander

[Brenton C]

Hi Alexander,

 

Thanks for these great tips. That helps me to relax, and not have to be nagged by that so-common worry that I have to "know everything" before I do anything.

 

Thank you, also, for the film recommendations.

 

Now, I'm going to pretend to get some work done, and see if I can't duck out of this work a little early . . . I mean, take a long lunch, in order to take a few pictures.

 

Have a good weekend!

[tobey bilek]

Black and white is is easily home processed and is available mail order as is color film. I use B&H in New York. A very reputable company. There are others, Adorama, Calumet, etc.

 

Home processing of color is somewhat more difficult and the local labs are all shutting down. Home processing is not being difficult, has the problem chemicals are increasingly difficult to find in smaller sizes. Check out Freestyle in California. They specialize in film, chemicals, & paper.

 

Film is not dead, but has one foot in the grave.

 

Digital is cool. No waiting to finish a roll, no processing, shoot . load the computer, send off to printer.

 

I very strongly recommend Adobe DNG profile editor so that when the file opens in the supported raw converters, it is ready to go as in nearly finished. Then learn soft proofing so that files you send out are printed as you want. Or you can do a inkjet profiled and color corrected.

 

UNDERSTAND WITH FILM OR DIGITAL YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE A TOTAL COMMITMENT IN GOOD EQUIPMENT TO GET TOP QUALITY . There are no shortcuts. Shortcuts include a non calibrated monitor.

 

Stay away from consumer film like Kodak Gold. Kodak Portra is good as is Ektar id you want more saturation/contrast.

 

 

 

I need to add, stay away from consumer quality film. Kodak Portra is good.

 

Any digital camera with 10/12 MP and a APS-C sensor is capable of decent 11x14 prints. Brand does not matter. Naturally we all appreciate Leica, but my Nikons are also good.

[Brenton C]

Hi Tobey,

 

Thanks for your input on this.

 

It's looking like a popular and convenient thing to do is scan, or have film scanned at the time of developing, so you get film plus computer convenience.

 

I dont know if I should be botnered by this or not, but all the labs I've looked at on line appear to use some form of digital enlargement. I'm sure I won't mind that for snaps, but for pictures i might want to enlarge for framing and displaying, is there still an advantage to traditional enlargement?

 

I'll check the lab you recommend to see what they do.

[D Spohn]

Brenton,

 

When I shoot film with my Hasselblad I have the local lab make proof scans. This allows me to decide which images are worth spending the money for drum scans, which I get done at West Coast Imaging in California. They're expensive but several times per year run specials of 25 percent off. This is still 60 USD per scan but the quality is incredible.

 

Check out their website West Coast Imaging

 

You'll be able to get superb 20x30 inch prints from your Leica gear if your technique is good.

 

And, no, I don't think there is any advantage to darkroom printing in the 21st century. Quite the opposite, actually.

[Brenton C]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

D Spohn,

 

Thanks for this information. This is reassuring as well as helpful.