spydrxx Posted September 15, 2014 Share #21 Posted September 15, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I used D-76 for most of my life, but about 2 years ago got a large unopened bottle of Rodinal about the time I ran out of D-76. I didn't like the Rodinal results using normal development times (mostly Plus-X and Tri-X), so eventually decided to try stand developing, and am pleased with the results for a variety of reasons. My freezer has lots of different B&W films in it which I've either bought or people have given to me and I don't relish experimenting with and potentially wasting rolls of each one. Using a standard Rodinal stand development mix and technique, I no longer worry about how the film is going to come out, have too much grain, etc....my results are just fine for scanning purposes (I no longer do my own printing). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 15, 2014 Posted September 15, 2014 Hi spydrxx, Take a look here Stand developing HP5+ in either rodinal or D76. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gsgary Posted September 30, 2014 Share #22 Posted September 30, 2014 This is HP5 stand developed in the fridge for 1 hour, Rodinal 1+100 starting at 17 degrees then put in the fridge and left Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_parker Posted October 7, 2014 Share #23 Posted October 7, 2014 A fascinating set of ideas and information - I wonder what would happen if you tried this with a contrasty film that would normally be highly sensitive to development times - I'm thinking of something like Adox CMS 20 - would it be guaranteed to become unusably contrasty, or would the principle of exhaustion of the developer prevent that if you got the dilution right ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted October 8, 2014 Share #24 Posted October 8, 2014 I find that stand development is good for high contrast scenes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 8, 2014 Share #25 Posted October 8, 2014 I find that stand development is good for high contrast scenes It is very good in that respect, and I have used it very often. Let us consider why film manufacturers never give specifications for stand development. What's with is with with with with that? Some kind of ANSI thing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_parker Posted October 9, 2014 Share #26 Posted October 9, 2014 I find that stand development is good for high contrast scenes I'm interested if there is a difference in how the technique accommodates to high contrast films (i.e. films that have a natural chemical tendency to become contrasty unless carefully developed) as well as the scenes themselves - it will be interesting to find out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted October 9, 2014 Share #27 Posted October 9, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I don't think it gets much more contrasty than Kodalith Ortho, stand developed in Rodinal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_parker Posted October 9, 2014 Share #28 Posted October 9, 2014 Thanks Gary - that's just what I wanted to know I'll try some CMS20 in Rodinal 1:100 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 11, 2014 Share #29 Posted October 11, 2014 Stand development in R09/Rodinal gives always a risk of uneven development. Further the sharpness will be less then a regular 1+100 R09/Rodinal development with minimum agitation. Both systems can work and a high diluted R09/Rodinal will work as low contrast type developer. The fact that in R09/Rodinal is no Bromide but para-Amino Phenol the risk for an uneven development like D76 is less but still possible. It also depends on the type of film you are using. Filme entwickeln - Die richtige Bewegung A more interesting scientific article (yes I know it is in German language). Conclusion: Die alten Hasen haben es ja schon immer gewusst: SW-Filme fühlen sich dann am wohlsten, wenn sie im Entwickler gekippt werden. Beim Rotieren bleibt das Korn zwar fein, die Schärfe dürfte aber besser sein. Die langen Standentwicklungszeiten missfallen dem Film und die Bilder werden unscharf und grobkörnig. Also besser: Kipp cool. B&W films primary do best in inverse processing. In rotary the grain is still small but sharpness could be better. In stand development you will have less sharpness and grain will be bigger. I can only agree with this conclusion. But in sharpness it depends which type developer you are using. Indeed all high acutance type developers like R09/Rodinal, Neofin Blue, Beutler, FX-1 I would prefer in a inverse processing. However ultra fine grain type developers like CG-512/Rollei Low Speed, Perceptol, Microdol-X you can do without any hesitation in rotary development. In between, D76/ID11, Xtol, HC-110 which difference is neglectible which method you are using. My example of R09/Rodinal with minimum agitation but inverse processing. Fuji Acros 100, E.I. 80. M7+Summarit F/2,5-75mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 11, 2014 Share #30 Posted October 11, 2014 I'll try some CMS20 in Rodinal 1:100 That is not enough to have a reasonable result. CMS20 is an ortho micro film from Agfa Gevaert. These micro films need a special low contrast type developer. The same story with Rollei ATP1,1 also a type of micro film from Agfa Gevaert but with extended Red sensitivity like Kodak Technical Pan was. In low contrast light situations you can use R09/Rodinal 1+150 (or even more) for these films but with reduced speed. E.I. 6 for CMS20 and E.I. 15 for ATP1,1 Here an example of ATP1,1 in R09/Rodinal 1+150 on iso 15. But better is to use it in the ATP-DC developer (made by SPUR for Rollei). ATP1,1 E.I. 25 in ATP-DC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dikaiosune01 Posted November 4, 2014 Share #31 Posted November 4, 2014 I read in this write-up about stand development using Rodinal that it would be possible to expose one and the same roll at different EI and get ok results. Has anyone tried this? I would like to thank you for sharing that article. Very helpful in bettering my understanding of stand development. I've been meaning to try it for a while but have had too many questions. The weather is finally reaching 23 ish degrees Celsius (as opposed to the 35 last week) making it more environmentally feasible to finally give stand development a try. So if you'd indulge me and let me hijack this 'stand development' thread with my own questions. (1) If I have a development tank large enough. that can hold over 1 liter of chemicals; can i develop 2 rolls of 35mm film. 7 ml solution and 700 ml of water? 1 hour. inversions every 10 seconds for the first minute. Stand 30 minutes, one slow inversion, stand 30 minutes. (2) Can anyone elaborate more on the temperature control for stand development? Highest and lowest temperatures you've tried? (3) Am I wrong in assuming that one roll of 135 film the equivalent to one roll of 120 film and equivalent to one 4x5 sheet film? (it kind of seemed to work for me while I was souping HC110 and HP5). Does the same rationale apply to stand development? (4) I want to try stand development with sheet film (4x5 sheet film) in a 1 liter Patterson tank and the Mod 45 holders. Because of this, I do need one liter of fluids to ensure the sheet is immersed. At the same time I should only use 3.5 ml of rodinal. (1) Do I need to have 350 ml of water for every 3.5ml of developer? What do I need to do to get that 1 liter of solution that I need? thank you thank you thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted November 4, 2014 Share #32 Posted November 4, 2014 I want to try stand development with sheet film (4x5 sheet film) in a 1 liter Patterson tank and the Mod 45 holders. Because of this, I do need one liter of fluids to ensure the sheet is immersed. At the same time I should only use 3.5 ml of rodinal. (1) Do I need to have 350 ml of water for every 3.5ml of developer? What do I need to do to get that 1 liter of solution that I need? Just dilute 1:100 (Rodinal:Water) to make one liter. It works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted November 4, 2014 Share #33 Posted November 4, 2014 Most measuring 1 liter vials, graduates can take a bit more than 1 liter. Do 1:100 and be happy, I will add my usual caveat: stand development is not a cure for difficult ranges of exposure, micro contrast is not good. Best of luck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.