Jobo CPP-2 Agitation for E6 Slide Films. Help!!!

[ron110n]

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Hello film E6 Gurus... Help!!!

 

I haven't been around E6 processing for Slide Films for a looong time.

Last time I did this was from a Fish Tank and "the mess was not fun".

 

I finally bought a Jobo CPP-2 Processor / CPA-2 Lift and this is my first time on a Rotary Tank.

 

Question, what is the proper agitation on a CPP-2 Rotary Processor for E6.

I turn the tank once every 30 sec.for 6 seconds on a fish tank. With Rotary??? Beats me...

 

38C / 105F

 

CPP-2 Motor - 0 F 2 3 4 P 6 7

 

1st. Developer???

 

Color Developer???

 

Blix (Bleach / Fixer)???

 

Any recomended time / temp.???

Does Fuji Velvia, Provia need a higher Temperature?

Any special instructions on Ektachrome 100G?

 

I realize that it is best to add hot water since the Jobo takes forever to warm the Processor. Is this advisable?

 

Thanks in advance,

-Ron

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[stunsworth]

Ron, it rotates continuously. If it didn't you would have a major problem as the developer etc. don't cover the entire film all the time. The Jobo website used to have times for e6 and c41, I don't know if that's still the case - or even if the website still exists.

 

I used heated water, but remember what is important is that the chemistry reaches the operating temperature before you use it.

[erl]

Ron,

 

I have the JOBO Autolab 1500 and it processes B/W films @ 24Deg. C and ALL col films @ 38 Deg. C. I am sure yours will be the same. Agitation is continuous for the entire process. As Steve said, get your temp up to operating level before using. Consistency is the critical thing, rather than accuracy, but that does help. In my early days of colour printing (also said to be critcal for temp.) my chemistry suffered a consistent temp drop of 10 Deg. each time I processed. Because it was consistent I was able to achieve predictable results.

 

Now the JOBO allows me to have a coffee or even a meal while it does it's work. So be brave, give it a go. With e transparency films, you WILL need to experiment with th Dev. time a bit to achieve the density you prefer. Most likely, you will need to extend the published dev time by a minute or so.

 

Good luck, and remember, it ain't difficult!

[robsteve]

Ron:

 

You can look it up on the Jobo site here. Make note that the Fuji films take more time than Kodak or Agfa. Also, don't mix the different brands in the same drum.

 

The Kodak times are 6:30, Fuji 7:30, with only astia at 7:00.

 

E-6 Developer Times

[ron110n]

Steve,

Thanks for the tip. You're right about consistency. I can't keep a stable temp. on a fish tank before and my result is too dark. Then i have to add hot water when the temp drops. At times my tank gets too hot. Of course the result was below par.

 

Erl,

Yes, I will experiment to extend the first developer time. That should make it brighter.

I'll start on a 24 exp Fuji Sensia 100. I bought 10 rolls and I will shoot it like my D2.

Geez... I bet you like your Jobo ATL-1500, I always wanted one but that's about four CPP-2 or one M8 plus a few hundred more.

It is compact and you can bring it to trips, with a Nikon 5000ED and a Notebook you're all set in your log cabin at the outback. Maybe one day I'll get a used one.

 

 

Robster,

That was a good link. Thanks!!!

I find it difficult surfing Jobo's website.

I've been looking for the link you sent since Friday night.

 

Thanks guys for your advice!

 

-Ron

[ron110n]

The Kodak times are 6:30, Fuji 7:30, with only astia at 7:00.

 

I missed this part... Thanks Rob.

Party on!!!

 

-Ron

[artur5]

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E6 - 38ºC (FIRST ROLL)

 

FIRST DEVELOPER -6' 50" (+-0,2º)

RINSE -1' 50" (+-1º)

INVERSION BATH. -1' 50" (+1º-3º)

COLOR. DEVELOP. -6' (+1º-3º)

CONDITIONNER BATH -2' (+1º-3º)

BLEACH -7' (+1º-3º)

RINSE -30" (+1º-3º)

FIX -4' (+1º-3º)

FINAL RINSE -3' (+1º-3º)

STABILIZER -1' (30-38º)

 

 

Those are the official times for a classical 6 Bath E6 process

For Jobo Rotative processors CPP series is advisable to use a 20% less

time for the Color developer only ( that is: 5 minutes instead of 6 )

For the first develop. I use same times for Fuji and Ektachrome films but maybe -as said on the post- Fuji requires a bit more ( Velvia 50 specially as is rather a 32-40 ISO instead of 50 )

With 3 Bath E6 process I'm not sure about the color dev.. times because

it uses an integrated inversion-color.developer bath.

The above times are a useful guide but you have to find YOUR times with your method to achieve consistent results. Make sure you get an accurate thermometer. and take the reading on the chemical inside the bottle, not on water. You'll find that when the water is at the correct 38ºC the chemical inside the bottle could be 1 or 2 º less.

Have fun and don't expect perfect results the first time.

[ron110n]

Muchas Gracias Arturo,

 

I will keep in mind the valuable information and tips you shared.

 

Saludos.

-Ron

[robsteve]

Ron:

 

I would go with the times on Jobo's web site. I have developed hundreds of rolls of E6 this way and the times seemed to be fine.

 

Be careful of instructions for larger commercial batched of E6. They are for use where the developer is reused and then replenished rather than use once and throw out. for example, the Kodak 5l E6 kit has a standard develop time of 6min, which is too short for the Jobo processors.

 

If you can find a Agfa Process 44 E6 kit, it is the ideal kit for the Jobo. It is a 500ml kit that uses 4 steps. It only combines the bleach/fix, there is still a separate reversal step. The AGFA order number is BVLE2.

 

Robert

[ron110n]

Thanks Rob, I will also try the Agfa Kit.

I had a kind response from the eBay seller who sold me the CPP-2.

The motor knob speed on F is film Agitation and on P is Print Agitation.

I was wondering before what F and P means in German.

 

Thanks for the generous help Robster!!!

 

-Ron

[Hans Roggen]

Just a quick word of warning: keep your eyes on the tank while it is rotating. I used to have the CPP2 and with bigger tanks it tended to slip every now and then, so the tank would stop rotating and the film would develop unevenly.

 

Hans

[ron110n]

Thanks Hans, I'll keep an eye on it.

 

-Ron