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Scanning workflow questions


sergiofigliolia

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Hi all,

I bought a Plaubel Makina 67 a while ago as I decided I want to shoot some medium format shots.

I then recently bought a Epson V750 Pro-M scanner and since I also have an M7 tried to scan both 35mm and 120 films.

I have my films(both colour and B&W) processed in a lab.

To keep the story short I wanted to know what is the best workflow to scan those.

The real question is what are the best values of dpi for both?

Going to the maximum values of the scanner for each format I had a medium format file of 1.5GB(!!!) and 500MB for the 35mm film.

I have saved them in TIFF with EpsonScan and then resaved as DNG with Lightroom 4 (300DPI, 30x45cm for the 35mm).

Once they get to DNG they were half the size of the corresponding TIFF files.

Obviously I don't think it is the right approach and this is why I'm here.

Which workflow do you use? I need precise values to get the best out of my film without compromises or if it leads to huge file sizes I might have a separate workflow the the shots I plan to print.

Also is it worth trying the wet scanning, anti-newton glass, adjustable height mount?

I don't see my shots so sharp once scanned....

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Hi all,

I bought a Plaubel Makina 67 a while ago as I decided I want to shoot some medium format shots.

I then recently bought a Epson V750 Pro-M scanner and since I also have an M7 tried to scan both 35mm and 120 films.

I have my films(both colour and B&W) processed in a lab.

To keep the story short I wanted to know what is the best workflow to scan those.

The real question is what are the best values of dpi for both?

Going to the maximum values of the scanner for each format I had a medium format file of 1.5GB(!!!) and 500MB for the 35mm film.

I have saved them in TIFF with EpsonScan and then resaved as DNG with Lightroom 4 (300DPI, 30x45cm for the 35mm).

Once they get to DNG they were half the size of the corresponding TIFF files.

Obviously I don't think it is the right approach and this is why I'm here.

Which workflow do you use? I need precise values to get the best out of my film without compromises or if it leads to huge file sizes I might have a separate workflow the the shots I plan to print.

Also is it worth trying the wet scanning, anti-newton glass, adjustable height mount?

I don't see my shots so sharp once scanned....

 

Maybe this link will help. Most certainly the BetterScan holders and anti-newton glass will improve the overall scan.

 

EPSON V700 review

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Hi Sergio

 

The answer to your question "what is the best values of dpi" for 35 and 120 is that it depends on what you will use the scans for.

 

If you will print very large (say A3 or bigger), then go for max resolution (and accept the very large file size). But if the images are for internet use or for printing smaller, say 10x15cm, prints, then scan at a lower resolution. I typically scan at Vuescan's "Print" setting which results in TIFFs that are 1800x1200 300dpi and between 5-10MB. There's no use in wasting time and storage space on images that won't need to be printed large or used at high magnification on a screen. I've compared "Print"-setting scans and "Archive"-setting scans (which result in max resolution from my Nikon V scanner) and I see little improvement between these scans when they are both viewed at 1800x1200.

 

For me the aim is to get as "flat" a scan as possible. This means that the image will look dull and lifeless but - ironically - also that the most image information will have been captured which is great for the editing stage. I believe that any image editing should be done in an image editing programme, which is why I have Vuescan set up so that it doesn't give me contrasty, punchy or "good out of the scanner" images.

 

For my negative colour I use the ColorPerfect Photoshop plugin to "develop" them and make colour corrections. Though the plugin itself has a bit of a quirky interface, I find that it works very well (though I also know that one can do the same in Photoshop itself) and am very pleased with the results.

 

As for wet mounting, from what I understand it will give better results than dry scanning in terms of colour fidelity and lack of dust. I have yet to try this, however.

 

Cheers

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I do agree in what you say about getting a flat scan. It is exactly the same thing I try to achieve out of camera raw for digital.

Also regarding values of DPIs after having looked at the results for a while I must say quality is improved more by flatness of the negative in scanning than pushing on DPIs.

I think I might go on scanning at lower res and only afterwards if I'm to print images at big sizes rescan or even have them scanned with a pro drum scanner if it needs be...

 

As for wet mounting, from what I understand it will give better results than dry scanning in terms of colour fidelity and lack of dust. I have yet to try this, however.

...and also it should keep the negative flat so you can get improved sharpness throughout the frame especially for medium and large format negatives isn't it?

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Sergio, I echo the sentiments regarding scanning as flat (neutral) as possible to be able to use any & all details while building the image in layers. I own & use the Epson V700. I had a Nikon for 35mm, but the scans have way to much contrast & destroy too much information in the scans. I shoot a lot of film with my Blads and the better holders area must for 110 films.

 

I NEVER save my scans as a DNG. NEVER. Just scan at 600 dpi and save the file as a tiff. With B&W films (I prefer TriX 400, because I love that grain), there many ways use the tiff files that allow very sophisticated processing. I usually process B&W scans in the LAB color space because it allows you calibrate & replicate exotic tones, using numerical values.

 

Good luck. Ben

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