F Perdue Posted March 18, 2007 Share #1 Â Posted March 18, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have had film based M's for years and just got the M8. Using a coded 28mm Summicron asph with the 486, I notice significant Cyan shifts on both sides of many images. I also see Cyan shifts on my non-coded 35mm 1.4 asph with 486, but a bit less strong. Â Summarizing all I have read, it seems it is easier to shoot without the 486 filter and use some of the profiles thoughtfully created by LUF "angels"-- Being that the profiles mostly automate in C1 what would take a PhD to do in Photoshop if one tried to correct the Cyan edges through masking. Â At 50mm, I do not see Cyan on the edges- so keep 486's on for 50mm and greater? Or is the image improvement from filtering worth the extra effort to de-cyanize the output? Â Also, is there any idea if and when in April the 1.1 firmware version will appear? Â TIA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 18, 2007 Posted March 18, 2007 Hi F Perdue, Take a look here Newbie Reads about Cyan and 486's. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
stunsworth Posted March 18, 2007 Share #2 Â Posted March 18, 2007 Summarizing all I have read, it seems it is easier to shoot without the 486 filter and use some of the profiles thoughtfully created by LUF "angels"-- Being that the profiles mostly automate in C1 what would take a PhD to do in Photoshop if one tried to correct the Cyan edges through masking No PhD required. Use the PtCorrect filter available free from Panotools. Select 'Radial Luminance' and then the red channel in 'Options'. The value you enter will depend on the strength of the Cyan effect - 5-10% seems reasonable starting point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nryn Posted March 18, 2007 Share #3 Â Posted March 18, 2007 The profiles do not correct the cyan vignette, they correct the magenta cast. Correcting the cyan vignette can be done relatively easily in Photoshop (no PhD needed, not even a high school degree ) by using a large elliptical or rectangular selection, feathered, inverted, then use the color balance tool. Assuming the cyan vignette is constant for all images produced by a single lens, this could easily be taken care of with an action for each lens. I haven't had the opportunity to shoot much lately, unfortunately. Â You'll only get the cyan vignette on wide angle lenses. I barely see it on my 35mm, which is apparently where it starts showing up. Â Sometime in April for 1.1 is all we know at this point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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