Guest sirvine Posted March 12, 2007 Share #21 Posted March 12, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you're shooting JPEG, then you've got not one, but two white balance variables, right? Every example posted so far looks like a slight yellow push on the WB between one shot and the other, either imposed by the camera or Aperture (who know which?!) As far as I'm concerned, no camera or RAW converter can be trusted to handle white balance without a little manual tweaking. As for the reason the WB shift is caused by changes in the aperture (meaning of the lens, not the application), I can't help you there except to add wild speculation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 12, 2007 Posted March 12, 2007 Hi Guest sirvine, Take a look here M8 - Burned "golden" look? Lens or M8?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jamie Roberts Posted March 12, 2007 Share #22 Posted March 12, 2007 Will-- Sorry, I'm really confused here. You can't change a white balance in a JPEG once it's made. First, you're shooting JPEG, which means the WB is set in the camera. You have it set to daylight, and then you expose; on auto, I suspect. The WB is set. Then you take a *JPEG* into Aperture and play with it, well, you're not changing WB, no matter what Aperture says. You are messing with midtone colours, though Same thing happens if I take a JPEG into PS, and play with the mid-tone levels control: my colours will shift unpredictably. End of story. The out-of-camera JPEGs look pretty consistent to my eyes. You're talking about a processing issue, not a camera (and certainly not a lens) issue. Unless I'm missing something key here, which I'm fully prepared to admit I am As for AWB with the M8, well, it's just messed. I've never had the camera change the WB though on a pre-set or a custom WB. So if that shot above with the second shot different than the first wasn't shot on AWB, I'd be calling Leica... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertwright Posted March 12, 2007 Share #23 Posted March 12, 2007 And FYI "equivalent exposure" means the same exposure (EV) but different aperture/shutter combinations. If you shot the first one at f16 1/500 and then the subsequent images at f8 1/125 that is most definitely not the same exposure. So you cannot expect the color rendition to be the same. Add to it what other posters are saying, the adjusting of jpegs, etc, and this means essentially "nothing" is going on that is not atributable factors you are not controlling. Unless I have misunderstood again. Again the WB in aperture is also borked. C1 is a little better imo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted March 12, 2007 Share #24 Posted March 12, 2007 {snipped}Again the WB in aperture is also borked. C1 is a little better imo. C1 WB is excellent if you have a proper WB reference shot, or set a custom WB. But note that excellent always pleasing.... a perfectly balanced candlelight or sunset shot will look quite horrible! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstotler Posted March 12, 2007 Author Share #25 Posted March 12, 2007 Jaime--sounds good to me as a "final answer." Robert--pointing the finger at Aperture got me moving to try and isolate the workflow problem--lens, camera, or Aperture processing. I put together the quick test chart (attached below) shooting on a tripod to try and replicate the casting issue with the 15 CV at 1/1000th exposure time. Everything slid toward hues of green as I tweaked the image, adjusting exposure and shadows to "push" the image into a usable range. No WB adjustment here--just exposure and shadows tweaking. Seems that Aperture reads the "dominant" color tones in the image (in this case blues and greens) and bumps in the direction of those colors when it "lightens" an image. (The London photo colors were predominantly yellowish brown and grey, accounting for the golden hue to the final image.) Conversely, when the image is "missing" as much light as the f/22 original, strong greens and blues are mostly all that's left--so it works with what the M8 did manage to grab. So, I'm inclined to say that Jaime is absolutely right and my color issue is self inflicted, with a WB adjustment (a no-no) skewing everything on top of the color skew introduced by the lightening adjustments. (Although I *have* seen the yellowing and/or golden hue issue Robert pointed out as a function of the exposure and the M8's handling of that.) You know, as much as I've read about these issues I couldn't ID them when they were self inflicted. So, thanks for everyone's input, patience, and thought on the issue! Maybe I need to go the DNG route sooner rather than later. Thanks, Will P.S. So here's the good news--I can get an image as a JPG that I can process later with strong "burned in" scene colors and contrast by cranking up to f/16 or f/22 and then applying exposure bumping and shadow reduction. And get a look that I'd have to dicker with in PS for a while to get a similar (but not same) effect--the camera is going to "paint" it differently than PS will, in any case. There are times for this and I know how to get the effect to reproduce now. The bad news is that if I don't want my photos to look like this I can't "push" them in post so very hard as JPGs. I have to live with what I can get at f/8 or less (depending on available light) and about 1/250 (hand held for least shake). And, I'm stuck with in-camera WB unless I move to DNGs. Thanks! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/18560-m8-burned-golden-look-lens-or-m8/?do=findComment&comment=198281'>More sharing options...
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