Monitor calibration with CV Spyder2 - Help Please

[eronald]

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HC,

 

Larry already has calibration hardware. He might as well use it. Brings the whole thing into a configuration where external debugging is then possible.

 

Edmund

[ho_co]

Edmund--No argument there.

 

The only reason I suggested the other approach is that he really seems confused and I thought seeing the stages might help him understand what's up. But I'm not attacking your recommendation--I said he would not go wrong following your suggestions.

 

By the by--why do you say to forget the Spyder software? I haven't used it. Is it confusing, bad, or not as good as ColorEyes? Just curious.

 

Thanks.

 

--HC

[eronald]

Edmund--No argument there.

 

The only reason I suggested the other approach is that he really seems confused and I thought seeing the stages might help him understand what's up. But I'm not attacking your recommendation--I said he would not go wrong following your suggestions.

 

By the by--why do you say to forget the Spyder software? I haven't used it. Is it confusing, bad, or not as good as ColorEyes? Just curious.

 

Thanks.

 

--HC

He won't understand - all he'll do is get his system into a new strange state, and then we'll have to start over again.This is a case where you fish someone out of the water before you make him take swimming lessons.

 

Re. Spyder - How would I know ? I follow my own advice

 

Edmund

[EotyLMB]

Edmund, HC-

 

Thank you for your input. I actually had been doing fine for many years profiling the monitor using Apple's builtin software or another one called SuperCal. I had very good results. I felt that I should move to the next step and go to a hardware profiling device to "take my eye out of it." That is when everything went wacky. My screen looked good after using the Spyder. It actually matched very well against previously printed photos. I thought this was my goal. Then I printed and things did not match the screen. Just in this area of substituting light blue for white. Not in mixing all colors. And it was not all white areas substituted with blue. It seemed to be solid white areas only. I ran the ColorSync verify/repair utility as suggested by Michael from the Range Finder Forum and this seemed to take care of the basic blue/white situation. I just still seemed to have some issues with this one series of photos. Using the profiles for monitor and printer I used before the Spyder now produced bad results where the same combination did produce good results for those files. If I could just go back to things as they were before Spyder, I would be happy. I can not seem to get all the way there.

 

To add to the frustrations, the Colorvision (Spyder) support will only call me and they have yet to decide to call.

 

Now, I did download the ColorEyes as suggested by Edmund. Maybe it is just one of those bad times but I cannot get the profiler to start. The start profile button does not activate on the software.

 

I do appreciate your help.

 

Larry

[EotyLMB]

OK Guys,

 

I downloaded the software ColorEyes and used it to create a profile. Sorry, but when you tols me to ditch the SpyderI did not understand that I actually needed to use it with ColorEyes.

 

Larry

[photorunner]

Any suggestions for LCD monitor (Samsung Syncmaster 225BW), Printer (Epson 2200), and Laptop (Sony VAIO SZ 28GP) calibration on Windows XP? I have a Spyder with Photocal Software. I can't seem to calibrate my monitors correctly.

[EotyLMB]

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Edmund, HC

 

Before and after calibrating using ColorEyes, I printed several different photos as tests. Without going way out there it appears that the only color problem yet is still with the one basic file. The colors in the other files look good and the monitor is good. I do not know what is going on in the one file but I am going to forget that file unless I detect it in something in the future.

 

Now, Edmund, which hardware device do you prefer to use with ColorEyes? I am returning the Spyder2 package to the Apple store this week so I am free to go any direction.

 

Next, can I learn about your profiles by going to your blog? Or do you suggest some. I will use the M8 with the 2200 printer. I am going to add an external LCD to the MacBook (do you have a suggestion (20 to 24 inch)? I also have a 20" iMac at another home.

 

I am sorry that I have taken so much of your time and knowledge. I have learned and still want to get the most out of my system. I am very greatful for those like you who have knowledge and are willing to share.

 

Best regards,

Larry

[ho_co]

He won't understand - all he'll do is get his system into a new strange state, and then we'll have to start over again.This is a case where you fish someone out of the water before you make him take swimming lessons.

(sigh) You're probably right. Hopeless assumptions on my part.

 

Re. Spyder - How would I know ? I follow my own advice

LOL. Best possible answer!

 

--HC

[ho_co]

Before and after calibrating using ColorEyes, I printed several different photos as tests. Without going way out there it appears that the only color problem yet is still with the one basic file.

Okay, then the file is bad. Maybe it wasn't before, but it is now. Best bet IMHO is trash it and return to the original version, then tweak it to get it back to where you want it.

 

I have no idea what happened to it, and apparently you don't either. I'm not dumping on you, that's just the nature of the beast. We've all had files that we tried to 'fix' and ended up having to trash.

 

I am sorry that I have taken so much of your time and knowledge. I have learned and still want to get the most out of my system.

Don't apologize. We haven't done you much good, have we? We ask questions here too and are always glad to hear from others. We're glad to help where we can, but that doesn't seem to have worked here.

 

The problem is that from where Edmund and I sit, it's impossible to know what happened to that file. Even if we knew that it were, say, the one you adjusted with Colorsync, I doubt we would be able to tell you how to correct the problem.

 

Edmund and I have both been a bit dismissive of your understanding; that is based solely on our perceptions gleaned from your questions. We don't mean ill. All we are saying is that at some point we seemed to be on two or three different pages and didn't know where to go from here.

 

It's unfortunate; but unless Edmund has a suggestion, that's where I'm afraid we'll have to leave it.

 

Respectfully--

HC

[EotyLMB]

HC,

 

I know I said I was forgetting the one file but...I went to the PS created file, the original jpeg in iPhoto, and the original raw file...they all print out the same way!!! That is why I am puzzled.

 

Thank for everything,

Larry

[ho_co]

HC,

 

I know I said I was forgetting the one file but...I went to the PS created file, the original jpeg in iPhoto, and the original raw file...they all print out the same way!!! That is why I am puzzled.

 

Thank for everything,

Larry

As I said, Larry, I'm lost.

 

I would say open the raw file and simply start from scratch to get the results you want. Or put a warming layer over the bluish image in one of the JPGs. Or contact the users group on the Photoshop site and ask them how to fix the problem.

 

Good luck!

 

--HC

[eronald]

HC,

 

I know I said I was forgetting the one file but...I went to the PS created file, the original jpeg in iPhoto, and the original raw file...they all print out the same way!!! That is why I am puzzled.

 

Thank for everything,

Larry

 

take the original jpeg in ps, select printer color management in the print with preview box of ps, tell the printer it's sRGB, print it.

 

e.