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Off on a cruise


Olsen

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More unique for Cairo was the houses. People seemed to be living at an unfinished building site. The point with this was that when the building was declared completed property tax had to be paid. As long as it was not completed: No taxes.

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Nor is a trip to Cairo complete without a 'lunch on the Nile'. The lunch was very good, by the way. And with entertainment: An Egyptian belly dancer and the Tanaura: The Egyptian skirt dance. The dancer whirls around so that his different layers of skirts fly around him.

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The charming Egyptians had their way with the women....

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Unfortunately, I missed the belly dancer. The Cairo scenery that passed by outside was too spectacular. Here a phoenician type sailing vessel. A theory go that it was the phoenicians that taught the vikings how to sail. Could well be.

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The Cairo Tower in the background with a Yom Kippur War memorial in the foreground.

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One of the few finished buildings in Cairo; the Four Seasons Hotel. One of the typical boats in the foreground that serves 'the lunch on the Nile'.

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Still;most of the buildings along the Corniche el Nil were of this very Egyptian unfinished standard. Buildings like this stretched endlessly out in all direction in this city of 16 million people.

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Well back onboard the ship. Here is a model of Black Watch - as she looks now. She was built by Wärtsilä, Finland in 1972, but has been refitted several times.

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From Port Said we started the journey through the Suez Canal. By the early next morning we had almost come to the middle of the Canal.

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Here is where the Israelis crossed the Canal during the Yom Kippur War. What you see seemed to me to be a burned out Israeli M113 (The Egyptians had Russian materiel back then). We had these in the Norwegian army too. Along this stretch of the Canal tons of burned out war materiel was strewn around.

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The Suez Canal traffic fee is vital to Egypt's economy. We heard that the traffic had dropped 20% recently due to the pirate scare of the Red Sea/Arabian Sea/Indian Ocean and the reduction in the world economy.

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Despite rigid security measures, we saw several small boats with, what seems to be, local people. They waved and shouted to us.

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Then we entered the Great Bitter Lake. This is a place where ships anchors in wait for a north- or southbound convoys. Parts of the Canal is so narrow that the traffic can go only one way. Here lies a fully laden oil tanker (from the Turkish YA SA Holding) fumbling with it's manifold gear. Is it waiting to unload on board to another ship?

 

As you see, the weather suddenly changed. From a warm morning and bright sunlight from a blue sky to a weired dust storm.

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Then the dust storm hit us. First from port. After half an hour, from starboard. Obviously, a rotating storm. The dust soon covered the ship. We all started to caugh. This caugh kept most of us busy for the rest of the trip. We called it 'the Black Watch Caugh'.

 

Ou captain had to zig-zag between huge ships either maneuvering around in circles or at anchor. We were going into possition to be no. 2 in the next southbound convoy. Here we pass Maersk Semakau (from this company: Maersk Line shipping containers worldwide ). Note that she has a high freeboard despite the full load of containers. More than 40% of the containers going back to the Far East go empty. Most likely, she is returning to the FA with empty containers.

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Compared to this one: Maersk Klaipeda, fully laden (look at the waterline), but with 20 - 30% less containers. Most likely, bound for Europe. How large are these ships? Not more than 75 - 80.000 tonn GT (gross tonnage). The seven largest of the world's largest container ships (Maersk Emma etc.) are twice as heavy, at 151.000 GT. By 2013 Maersk will introduce their 'Tripple E class' - even larger: The worlds largest ship is the Maersk Line Triple-E class vessel

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Just to give you a hint of how intimidating these ships look up close. 16 containers wide. That's nothing. The new Triple E will be 19 containers wide.

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Two giant Maersk sisters, the Great Bitter Lake.

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We have just started the south bound convoy journey through the Canal and meet the last ships of the north bound convoy. One of them, this giant 'Suez Max' crude oil carrier, going in balast 'the wrong way'. - Which tells of the bad times in shipping today.

 

Who is it?

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It turns out to be a tanker well known to us Norwegians; 'Front Endurance' of Frontline (Frontline Ltd. ), a company controlled by the Norwegian shipping legend John Fredriksen (John Fredriksen - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ).

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Along both the narrow parts of the Canal, just north and south of the Great Bitter Lake, on the Sinai side of the Canal was strewn with burnt out war materiel. Most of it T-54/T55, most likely Egyptian. But also other unrecognisable vehicles. Despite the heavy metal, they were twisted and bent and with nasty holes telling of anti tank rockets hits, bombs etc. This rubble is a stark reminder of how horrible modern warfare is. Some 1500 Israelis and, possibly, as many as between 6 - 8000 Egyptians were killed here.

 

Next year it is 40 years ago since the Israeli and the Egyptians fought the largest tank battle in history here since Kursk. More than 500 tanks were knocked out here along the Canal. Almost 300 of them were Egyptian.

 

At the beginning of the war the Egyptian president Sadat had kept his tanks on mainland Egypt side of the Canal. His goal was only to take the Canal back. But the 1973 war was going bad for the Syrians on the Golan Heights and desperately begged the Egyptians to push the Israelis further into Sinai. Sadat sent his tanks over the Canal. This turned out to be a great mistake. The Israelis answered by attacking across the Canal too on to the Egyptian side. By this cutting off the Egyptian 3.Army and it's heavy thank fleet in Sinai.

 

We stood there on the deck and watched this horrible churchyard that stretched for mile after mile in silence.

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