Choice...

[italy74]

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Hi guys

I spotted two M's at a very interesting prices.

- M6 TTL 0.85 at x

- M7 .72x at x+50

 

Now, I'd prefer the .85 viewfinder, yet it doesn't happen so often to find an M7 BELOW 1500 € (local shops tend to sell such items for few money since there aren't many collectors like in Milan) plus it would have A mode and AE and surely a higher resale value - Since the seller is quite close to home, I think to pay him a visit.

 

By now I can't afford them yet, however I'd like to know what do you think. A and AE are tempting, yet I know what you see through the viewfinder is your main interface and should be your first decision parameter, besides. Maybe I can get also a 1.25x (he has them) and "fix the problem"? Is there much difference in viewfinder flaring from M6 TTL and M7 or are mostly an exaggerated hype?

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[FiZZ]

Hi guys

I spotted two M's at a very interesting prices.

- M6 TTL 0.85 at x

- M7 .72x at x+50

 

Now, I'd prefer the .85 viewfinder, yet it doesn't happen so often to find an M7 BELOW 1500 € (local shops tend to sell such items for few money since there aren't many collectors like in Milan) plus it would have A mode and AE and surely a higher resale value - Since the seller is quite close to home, I think to pay him a visit.

 

By now I can't afford them yet, however I'd like to know what do you think. A and AE are tempting, yet I know what you see through the viewfinder is your main interface and should be your first decision parameter, besides. Maybe I can get also a 1.25x (he has them) and "fix the problem"? Is there much difference in viewfinder flaring from M6 TTL and M7 or are mostly an exaggerated hype?

 

I can't talk about the M7, but I had an M2 for a couple of years before I bought an M6, and the viewfinder flare is apparent. I was shooting my friend's wedding and a lot of my shots into the lights were a bit off because of the flare. I had to guess the focus at one point.

 

That being said, I haven't had major issues with the M6 finder. The problem is apparent only when you shoot into VERY bright light. In my instance, I was shooting and there was a 5K spotlight, about 1200 watts, behind them.

 

Another thing to consider is whether or not you wear glasses, and what focal length you want to shoot. My M2/M6 are both 0.72 and I can barely see the 35mm framelines because I wear glasses. It's not really an issue that would change my mind over what camera to get, but it is a slight inconvenience.

[Xmas]

That being said, I haven't had major issues with the M6 finder. The problem is apparent only when you shoot into VERY bright light. In my instance, I was shooting and there was a 5K spotlight, about 1200 watts, behind them.

Hi Fizz

 

Beaten up M4-2 will be cheaper and earlier ones will have no rangefinder spot flare - see above

Before the M6 Leica people made do with a separate meter or clip on, there is a premium Euro for the integrated exposure meter, even more for AE.

If you are not going to use slide film then a meter in your pocket is faster, meter once an hour or when you move somewhere different. Meter for sun behing cloud and shadow and sun in cloud memorise, pocket meter.

The M6 meter is very compelling lots of people with alter aperture and miss a shot. Best to shoot, meter and reshoot if the shot is still there.

I can make do with a M2 (0.7) for magnification but if you only ever use a 5cm a M3 (0.9) is nicer.

You also need to be aware thet the semi spot meter may need to be pointed away from too bright or dark area to avoid exposure errors...

The M7 wont accept IXMOO if you need to bulk load film (cheaper), later M6 will need a baseplate latch modification.

A working Weston exposure meter complete with Invercone is 50 GBP tops, my last was 15, buy another if you drop it, use Westons zone system for exposure..

 

Noel.

P.S. some people are not troubled by the spot white out, some are badly annoyed, it occurs with high light sources behing the subject, e.g. Sun contra jour or profiles and Frenels at a gig.

[italy74]

Here I am, thanks for your replies.

 

Keep in mind here are two different approaches:

- M7 >> afford a classic with higher resale value and keep for loooong time.

- M6 TTL >> nice the .85x, I might do less about other things, yet I wouldn't choose anything older, I also like such camera both cosmetically and as a good compromise.

- Zeiss Ikon new (more or less for the same price)

 

On a side note, I do wear glasses and the fact is that if in .72x 35mm framelines are "barely visible" , with the .85x I should at least assume whatever I see through the viewfinder IS 35mm. In the end what I need is the patch to be clearly visible. 28mm framelines would be nice to have (0.72) but I could do less, at worst I could get an extra viewfinder. if I don't choose straightly the M3 is because choosing a 50mm could be limiting. I know there are goggles yet I don't want to go this way. This is valid also for pocket meter. I'd rather prefer to estimate than fiddling with an external meter, even if a MC / MR etc.

For the same price, more or less, I could get a Zeiss Ikon new. Not now, yet this is the third option and I like it as well.

 

Since a few days I'm also wondering if with a generic flash, TTL or not, you may achieve fill flash by playing with ISO settings (on the flash body of course!), shifting from 100 to 1250 ISO to get that hypotetical -1.7 EV which usually is suggested to be balanced with a backlit subject.

[italy74]

Of course MP is as beautiful as out of reach for now...