pico Posted April 27, 2011 Share #41 Posted April 27, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks I was really only looking for the contact for Leica's head of sales. I am not here for group therapy. I'm not here to complain per se. Nor am I here to ask for people to support my position. I'm not asking for anyone to judge whether I'm right or wrong, or whether Leica is right or wrong. You really want the head of Customer Service, not sales, and you can find that on the Leica web site. I received a detailed estimate, in writing (a form) for my repair and it had various options, including a return with no repair at all. One option was to replace, or not, the damaged, but functional top plate. Another was to replace the entire back, or only the LCD. A CLA was not an option because of the extensive damage - it required a CLA. Period. All correspondence with Leica was prompt, courteous and professional. They (Carmen) even double-checked my understanding of the repairs just to be certain. (I went for the entire rebuild.) Yours might have similar options. But as I wrote earlier, Leica might have found that your camera needs a CLA in order to be up to their standards. You can refuse any repair and use the ISO dial on the back rather than to rely upon the sensor pins by the cassette. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 27, 2011 Posted April 27, 2011 Hi pico, Take a look here Who's Leica's head of sales?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Xmas Posted April 27, 2011 Share #42 Posted April 27, 2011 Sorry, but that is complete rot, not to put too fine a point on it. Leica are extremely responsive if you approach the right people in the right way. I see so no one complained properly about the zinc parts that can corrorde or the rangefinder patch flare problems both existed for nearly 20 years, and were addressed in the M7 and MP? Note my M6 was made in '94, and has corroded badly. So it is either the Leica user community's fault for not complaining, or my appreciation that these are problems is wrong, & they happened to address them by chance? Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted April 27, 2011 Share #43 Posted April 27, 2011 Sorry, Noel, you have completely lost me now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 27, 2011 Share #44 Posted April 27, 2011 Hi Andy The M6 top plate and back door are made of zinc which can corrode badly if not completely passivated, (some late M4-P had a similar top plate), My M6 top plate and back door is corroding, does not worry me, will worry a lot of people though. Leica FAQ — Brass vs. Zinc The M6 rangefinder patch will 'white out' with illumination at 3 oclock high. My M6 does, It does not worry me, will worry a lot of people though.. Never had this flare with M2, M3 or M4, it is repeatable with my M6. I assume that no one complained properly? Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted April 27, 2011 Share #45 Posted April 27, 2011 But they fixed these problems with later models and, IIRC, they would replace very badly corroded M6 top plates. I assume that people must have complained about such things - I would have done. Did you? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 27, 2011 Share #46 Posted April 27, 2011 Hi Andy I think some people may well have complained. and Leica did improve the passivation so that only a small number of the later manufactured M still had a problem. Yes they have addressed the rfdr flare in M7 and MP after making 100k M6 with the problem. Since I purchased my camera knowing it was corroding cheaper in '09, and had a flary patch it would be wrong for me to complain. And if I did complain they might want to charge me $1200 USD for the consequent other work, as the OP mentions. Lots of people pay to have their finders upgraded to MP finders. I dont think they are customer focused but it does not stop me buying eqpment, ZM or Bessa worse. Noel P.S. your passport should arrive within a week of purchase... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
juergen Posted April 28, 2011 Share #47 Posted April 28, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) @waileong This is what a phone call to customer service can do for you! KLICK Juergen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted April 28, 2011 Share #48 Posted April 28, 2011 I see so no one complained properly about the zinc parts that can corrorde Zinc corrosion? I've never seen it. In fact, for rust and corrosion protection on the cars I've built, I use zinc primer. It works very well. Sometimes zinc can look like it has 'white rust', but that actually protects even more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted April 28, 2011 Share #49 Posted April 28, 2011 Google "Zinkfrass" then you will see it. Not pretty. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
juergen Posted April 28, 2011 Share #50 Posted April 28, 2011 Google "Zinkfass" then you will see it. Not pretty. Regards, Bill Sorry but there was a typo in your message. The word to google is "Zinkfrass" Jürgen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 28, 2011 Share #51 Posted April 28, 2011 Zinc corrosion? I've never seen it. In fact, for rust and corrosion protection on the cars I've built, I use zinc primer. It works very well. Sometimes zinc can look like it has 'white rust', but that actually protects even more. Hi Pico On your steel car the Zinc paint or metal coating (Galvanisation) protects the steel by corroding differentially, Zinc dissappears steel remains. As billets it is attached to steel boats, as anodes for the same effect. By itself it will corrode quickly and needs complete protection like steel - a paint or dissimilar metal coating. Brass can be left unprotected, but it is nice to paint or plate it. The M6 had a zinc top plate and back door, Leitz tried to protect it only a very few late M6 corroded, the white dust lifts off the chrome or black paint. Some of the black paint on brass finished pinholed as well but the effect did not look as bad. The cameras still take photos, it is like vulcanite lifting, still a camera. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted April 28, 2011 Share #52 Posted April 28, 2011 I use a green spray version of zinc, then a coat of black wrinkle enamel which is then baked. This is largely for cast iron parts such as hydraulic cylinders. Obsessive? Moi? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posto 6 Posted April 28, 2011 Share #53 Posted April 28, 2011 Put an M4 plate on your M6 and the problem goes away- many available cheaply on the bay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjh Posted April 28, 2011 Share #54 Posted April 28, 2011 Sorry but there was a typo in your message. The word to google is "Zinkfrass" The correct spelling would be “Zinkfraß” (which is also more successful with Google as it turns up twice as many sites). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted April 28, 2011 Share #55 Posted April 28, 2011 The correct spelling would be “Zinkfraß” (which is also more successful with Google as it turns up twice as many sites). Yes, that spelling would be the proper one to use in some German speaking countries. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjh Posted April 28, 2011 Share #56 Posted April 28, 2011 Yes, that spelling would be the proper one to use in some German speaking countries. To be precise it is the correct spelling in all the German speaking countries except the German speaking parts of Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jarski Posted April 28, 2011 Share #57 Posted April 28, 2011 by now, someone probably have hinted Leica's head of sales about this funny thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesk8752 Posted April 29, 2011 Share #58 Posted April 29, 2011 I use a green spray version of zinc, then a coat of black wrinkle enamel which is then baked. This is largely for cast iron parts such as hydraulic cylinders. Obsessive? Moi? The "green spray" primer is probably made using zinc chromate pigment rather than zinc metal. Zinc chromate was used widely in the past as an effective anticorrosive additive in primers for aluminum and steel in automotive applications. Unfortunately it is environmentally verboten today because the chromate ions which provide the anticorrosive properties can be leached into wastewater, and it can cause contact skin dermatitis when paint containing it is sanded, so it has been replaced by less-effective zinc phosphate pigment in most end uses. If you can still get it, it remains the most effective stuff out there, but use it with care... Regards, Jim (an old auto paint formulator...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
juergen Posted April 29, 2011 Share #59 Posted April 29, 2011 The correct spelling would be “Zinkfraß” (which is also more successful with Google as it turns up twice as many sites). Your'e right, but the letter "ß" does not exist on too many keyboards outside of Germany. Jürgen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted April 29, 2011 Share #60 Posted April 29, 2011 ß = option s, on a Mac, US keyboard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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