photoshutter Posted January 10, 2011 Share #41 Posted January 10, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Jupiter-12 on M8: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Hi photoshutter, Take a look here Jupiter lenses on M8??. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
cfking Posted April 24, 2011 Share #42 Posted April 24, 2011 I bought a Jupiter 50 and it seems to off by about 3 ft do I need to have it adjusted and if so any suggestions where it send it ? I'm in Arizona ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesk8752 Posted April 24, 2011 Share #43 Posted April 24, 2011 I bought a Jupiter 50 and it seems to off by about 3 ft do I need to have it adjusted and if so any suggestions where it send it ? I'm in Arizona ? Brian Sweeney, who has a column at RFF, is an expert "tuner" of Jupiter and other FSU lenses. He's done good work for me... Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis44 Posted April 24, 2011 Share #44 Posted April 24, 2011 here is the link to get you to RFF and Brian's thread. http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=155 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean Louchet Posted May 15, 2011 Share #45 Posted May 15, 2011 Hi, I have a Jupiter 2/85. Beautiful glass, but it was wildly out of focus. Adjusting the focusing helical ramp didn't really help, as I had then the choice to have the RF properly coupled between 10m and inf., OR between 5 and 10 m, OR between 3 and 5 m.. so it stood on my shelf several years until I got the M8 and had the idea that if the thread of the helical ramp didn't match the focal distance, then it was possible to adjust the focal distance so that it matches the helical ramp. I did it (spent half a day, trial and error, faster with a digital!) rather easily as the optical part separates into a front and a back part (each side of the diaphragm) and I had to adjust the distance between the front and rear part. Once found, a couple drops of glue (I used shellac-based violin varnish), reassembling, adjusting RF coupling, adjusting focusing ring and job done. It is now a good portrait lens and it focuses correctly at all distances. The main issue is some mechanical freeplay in the RF cam, but still a lovely portrait lens, with beautiful light, bokeh and contrast. Not quite as sharp as the CV 2.5/75 anyway! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombii Posted May 20, 2011 Share #46 Posted May 20, 2011 +1 for Brian Sweeney. I recently bought a J-3 from him that's really nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 20, 2011 Share #47 Posted May 20, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi I do use FSU lenses, but also a Nikkor 5cm HC not that expensive and will focus close. The Canon LTM lenses are also nice. Luminous landscape Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JMF Posted June 28, 2012 Share #48 Posted June 28, 2012 Jean, did you take notes about your modification? any photos? I'd like to correct my Jupiter 9 as it only focuses correctly at near distances under 2 meters with my M8. I would like to know which distance you measured inbetween your J9 optical parts? And any references about adjusting RF coupling would be a plus ! Cheers / merci Jean-Marc, J9 + M8 Hi,I have a Jupiter 2/85. Beautiful glass, but it was wildly out of focus. Adjusting the focusing helical ramp didn't really help, as I had then the choice to have the RF properly coupled between 10m and inf., OR between 5 and 10 m, OR between 3 and 5 m.. so it stood on my shelf several years until I got the M8 and had the idea that if the thread of the helical ramp didn't match the focal distance, then it was possible to adjust the focal distance so that it matches the helical ramp. I did it (spent half a day, trial and error, faster with a digital!) rather easily as the optical part separates into a front and a back part (each side of the diaphragm) and I had to adjust the distance between the front and rear part. Once found, a couple drops of glue (I used shellac-based violin varnish), reassembling, adjusting RF coupling, adjusting focusing ring and job done. It is now a good portrait lens and it focuses correctly at all distances. The main issue is some mechanical freeplay in the RF cam, but still a lovely portrait lens, with beautiful light, bokeh and contrast. Not quite as sharp as the CV 2.5/75 anyway! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianv Posted June 28, 2012 Share #49 Posted June 28, 2012 The construction of the J-9's changed, the later Black lenses have two shims: one controls the standoff of the entire optics module in the focus mount (main shim) and the second shim controls the stand-off of the rear module in relation to the front section. Earlier lenses: no secondary shim for the rear module. SO: unscrew the main optics module from the focus mount. You will see the main shim. Unscrew the rear optics, use a rubber mousepad or something like it. If there is a secondary shim, take it out and screw the rear module back in. If there is no shim for the rear, you need to remove the glass from the rear fixture and grind it down a millimeter or so. After that, time to adjust the main shim: usually needs to be thickened 0.5mm or so. Some trial and error with the M8 is required. I was able to get one to focus between 5ft and 30ft at F2, better at F4. Sold it to someone that wanted a portrait lens. Never got another one. The Nikkor 8.5cm F2- classic Sonnar look, focus across the entire range. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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