monkstown Posted March 10, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 10, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, I'm in the market for an M leica with a meter. I have an M3 and I'm thinkingf of getting an M6 or an M7. Any feedback on why the M7 costs so much more than the M6. Thanks, Monkstown Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 Hi monkstown, Take a look here M6 v M7. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
richam Posted March 10, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 10, 2011 Besides the auto feature of the M7, the M6 is an older model that often needs expensive service to work properly. (note that the M6 [classic] and M6TTL are different models with technical differences and manufactured at different times). When comparing prices, it's prudent to factor in any extra costs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted March 10, 2011 Share #3 Posted March 10, 2011 The M7 is a current model, so you might be looking at quite a recent camera. It has a stepless automatic exposure electronic shutter, as opposed to the manual exposure mechanical shutter of the M6. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 10, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 10, 2011 Hi Monkstown It has more in it to go wrong, like the DX code reader, it wont accept IXMOO, its rangefinder should be as good or a little more contrasty than your M3. The M6 has a poorer rfdr, but may be more reliable than a M7... it will accept IXMOO but might need a baseplate latch change to do so, only the later models have a new 'useless' latch. The light meter is either camera is a semi spot and compelling in manual mode. You M3 is a nicer camera make sure you try the 'upgrade' before you buy... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted March 10, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 10, 2011 M6 works without batteries at all speeds, M7 only at 1/60 and 1/125. M6 can suffer from "zinc-rot". M7 is taller than M6 "classic", same size as M6TTL. M6TTL and M7 have TTL flash metering, M6 does not. M7 is quieter. M7 shutter speeds are more accurate. M7 mechanical DX code readers can be replaced with more reliable optical ones at no cost. I have had two M6, and I have an M7, along with an MP and an M2. Faced by the same choice as you I would buy an M7. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted March 10, 2011 Share #6 Posted March 10, 2011 I think that the IXMOO thing is a bit of a red herring, really. How many people still use them? It must be a miniscule number. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 10, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 10, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi Andy Leica thought that to when they changed the baseplate lock on the M6 and employed a chassis on the M7 that interfered. But all the people I regularly attend outings with do 'roll their own cassettes' from bulk and cine reels, and have IXMOO, some are on this forum. I also use the Contax II, Canon rfdr, Barnack (FILCA), and FSU concentric cassettes. I had to change the baseplate on my M6... Some of the forum people have never attend forum outings with film cameras... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted March 10, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 10, 2011 But all the people I regularly attend outings with do 'roll their own cassettes' from bulk and cine reels, and have IXMOO... As far as I'm aware the vast majority of people I've ever seen with film Leicas have used bog standard film that's within its 'use before date', in bog standard cassettes. Your experience obviously differs, but the question is, is it representative of the majority of Leica film users? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 10, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 10, 2011 Hi Steve It is a small minority... perhaps a 1%ile But if the OP used IXMOO he would be well annoyed, with a M7 (or MP), it was only awareness. The commercial film people changed from the long leaders in '71 or so because so few people were using Barnacks (or clones), think they (thereby) reduced the length of film loaded and made more profit. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveYork Posted March 10, 2011 Share #10 Posted March 10, 2011 I have had two M6, and I have an M7, along with an MP and an M2. Faced by the same choice as you I would buy an M7. Regards, Bill My experience and conclusion is pretty much the same, although my history would substitute an M4 for an M2. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
budrichard Posted March 10, 2011 Share #11 Posted March 10, 2011 After my M3, the next M I purchased was an M6, shutter dial goes the same way and similar except for the meter. Then I purchased two M7's for the AUTO shutter. Still have them all but only use M7's, rarely M6 and never M3. Decide whether you want AUTO or MANUAL shutter and then find one. M6TTL is only more useful if you use TTL flash. I would purchase by condition and price. They all take the same picture.-Dick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikep996 Posted March 10, 2011 Share #12 Posted March 10, 2011 Sold an M7 10 years ago - kept my M6 and still use it. It's all in what you like. The M6 is much less complicated but it doesn't have an "auto" mode. So if you like that feature, the M7 would be a more comfortable for you. IMO the M6 is essentially bulletproof; the M7 wasn't (isn't). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkstown Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share #13 Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks for all the feedback. I'm thinking M7 but still trying to figure why a used M7 is approx. twice the price of an M6. Maybe an M6 and spend the rest on Leica glass. Decisions decisions !!. William Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted March 12, 2011 Share #14 Posted March 12, 2011 M7 is heavier than an M6 and you will notice that. Depending on what generation of lenses you want to use on it, it is a pro (with new asph lenses) or a con ( with pre-aspheres). Furthermore the speed is an important difference: If it's your only camera I would take the M7, if you also own an M8 or 9, I would go for the M6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrid Posted March 12, 2011 Share #15 Posted March 12, 2011 It really depends what you want and the feature set of the cameras is so similar that there really isn't a lot to discuss... Get the M6 if you want a battery independent cameras and don't feel you need the support of AE for grab shots. The M7 has mechanical backup speeds of 1/60th and 125th, but without a battery the camera is dead. I've shot my M6ttl in -30 C and it just hummed along. I have no idea if such temperatures would have a negative effect on the lithium batteries of the M7, but you will probably experience 'operator failure' from extreme temperatures, before a mechanical M stops working. My M7 gets between 40 - 70 rolls from a set of batteries, depending on the temperature. I keep a spare set taped to the strap with some black cloth tape. That way the spare batteries are never 'in the other bag', when they are needed. (I do the same for the M6ttl and My F3). The AE in the M7 is not the same as AE in a Nikon F6/D-series, with it's very sophisticated matrix metering, that basically turns the camera in to a point and shoot. Because the M-series uses a very simple and dumb fat spot meter it is still up to you to find something middle gray to meter. So, it's more like basic automation that saves you the work of having to manually adjust the shutter speed, instead of full on automation. Keep in mind that the M6ttl is the only mechanical M-series camera that has TTL support. That said the AE can come in very handy, but I use it far less than I expected to, when I purchased the camera. But when I do use it, it is extremely useful. The most annoying thing about the AE in the M7 is that unlike seemingly every other camera on the planet with this feature, there is no permanent AE-Lock button. The reading is stored as long as you keep the shutter release slightly depressed. But, once you take the shot, you need to re-lock the reading. Very annoying and I have considered investigating the possibility of adding a button on the rear of the top plate to add this feature. I have an M6ttl and the M7. Both cameras have proven themselves to be very durable and trouble free. Neither camera has been purposely abused, but they haven't exactly spent their life cradled in a Luigi case either... My M7 is a very, very early example. It is one of the early units that did not have the flare fix and the original DX reader. I had the finder upgraded and the DX reader has never given me any trouble. The vast majority of M7 out there already have the flare fix and now the new DX reader. If not you can always get it upgraded. The M7 is quieter. The electronic speed governor eliminates some of the whirring of gears. Shutter release is extremely crisp. Top plate is brass, fit and finish is everything you expect from Leica and may be a small step up from the M6/M6ttl. Apparently the M7 shares some of the internal refinements that went in to the MP. But that is not to say that the M6 series is poorly constructed, which it certainly isn't. Mine has been going strong since 1998 and she only gets better with age. Like the M6TTL the M7 has full TTL flash metering, which is a big deal. That's why I prefer the M6ttl over the M6 and MP, which do not have this feature. I don't use flash very often, but the TTL metering sure makes life a lot simpler when I do use it and I can concentrate on getting shots, instead of worrying about the flash. The fact that the dial on the TTL turns in the opposite direction has never bothered me and I shoot a mix of M2/M4/M6ttl/M7 cameras, with Nikon SLR tossed in for good measure. My biggest complaint about both cameras is that they use the .7 frameline mask, which does not frame as accurate as the pre-M6 bodies, which use the 1 meter mask. But that is a different discussion and not so much of an issue if you mainly shoot 28 and 35mm lenses. You can have the mask changed, but it is very expensive to do (+$500) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kokoshawnuff Posted March 20, 2011 Share #16 Posted March 20, 2011 Talking about respective appearances, the exterior leatherette/vulcanite material on the M7 tends to peel along the edges whereas the M6 and MP don't. Just for resale considerations Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ron (Netherlands) Posted March 20, 2011 Share #17 Posted March 20, 2011 Had them all, M6 classic, 2x M6 TTL and an M7. For my kind of photography I didn't need a full automatic camera since I didn't any fast objects like sports etc, so I sold the M7 after a while. Handling however is best with the M6 classic since it is quite smaller than the others. However I ended up with a nice black paint M6 in lets say the M2/3 style: I bought the Millenium...IMHO the best looking M6 I really like the big shutter speed dial, that's why I didn't buy an MP... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB23 Posted March 20, 2011 Share #18 Posted March 20, 2011 I own a MP, M6 Millennium and M7. With the M7 I never miss a shot. With the MP/M6, the amount of lost shots because of the metering style is infuriating. There are times where I don't want to miss the moment but the metering is wayyyy off. The M7 rules, altough I much prefer the MP/M6 feeling in my hands simply because of their exquisite Paint finish. I am THIS close to ordering an ala carte M7 black paint and be done with it once and for all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted March 20, 2011 Share #19 Posted March 20, 2011 In handling the M7 is the fastest M camera. In AE mode it works very fast and acurate. Differences in M6: Quartz shutter with two mechanical times, 1/60s and 125s. So more or less battery dependent. TTL flash mode, DX reader, better RF. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 21, 2011 Share #20 Posted March 21, 2011 Hello, I'm in the market for an M leica with a meter. I have an M3 and I'm thinkingf of getting an M6 or an M7. Any feedback on why the M7 costs so much more than the M6. Thanks, Monkstown OOPs forgot the OP's question The M7 is a current model so many of them still have sticky baseplate protector, and MP (a M6 classic clone with brass bits and better (M7) finder) even more i.e. >>£. M6s zinc bits older cheaper... I know your M3 is antique, mine only has 6 digit serial... Life cyle the M7 may be more expensive than a M6 as some independents dont seem to maintain e.g. CAMERA REPAIRS & RESTORATION - LUTON , ENGLAND - 2011 a trip to Solms more expensive than independent. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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