GarethC Posted October 12, 2010 Share #1 Posted October 12, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've never really felt the need to use narrow dof in bright light but last summer I was caught a few times so figured I might be able to use one after all. Can I ask, does anybody use one on the M8? Rarely, never? For those interested, Mexico mid day sun around water seems to be the breaking point Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 12, 2010 Posted October 12, 2010 Hi GarethC, Take a look here ND Filters. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
timgo Posted October 12, 2010 Share #2 Posted October 12, 2010 I frequently use ND filters when I mix flash with daylight. I chiefly use either a 3 stop or 6 stop ND filter. The filters permit me to open my aperture for more shallow depth of focus. This helps isolate people or objects from the background. The 3 stop filter puts me at f/5.6 on a sunny day and the 6 stop filter puts me at f/2.0. I found ND filters add a color cast so I always shoot one more shot of a WhiBal card that so I can pick off the white balance in Capture One processing software. Then I go back to my real image and apply the white balance setting. I hope you have as much benefit with ND filters as I found. Regards, Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sabrewolf Posted October 12, 2010 Share #3 Posted October 12, 2010 I used a 10stop ND for my VC35mm 1.2 There is a strong blue cast from the filter and I had to shoot at iso 800 at full daylight california sun Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Negative Posted October 12, 2010 Share #4 Posted October 12, 2010 One of the reasons I didn't upgrade the M8's shutter was because I didn't want to lose 1/8000s. So on the M8, no - I have never used an ND (so far). On the M9 I'll probably start using one for two reasons; the shutter speed now tops out at 1/4000s and I picked up a 1,1/50 Nokton which I tend to shoot at/near wide open. So I'll probably pick up a 0.6x (two stop) B+W MRC in the near future. Another option would be a polarizing filter, which might be good for up to 1.5 stops maxed out. But you don't always want a polarized effect... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstotler Posted October 12, 2010 Share #5 Posted October 12, 2010 I'm using an 6-stop ND filter on the CV35 f/1.2 to be able to shoot in Sunny 16 conditions at f/1.2. For this purpose, it's always in my bag if I think I'm going to be shooting during the day. This set, as one example, was shot with an ND filter and slower speeds: Kendra Danelle Photoshoot - a set on Flickr It's also helpful when shooting in brighter conditions to bring the speed down into the 1/250th and 1/125th range so hand-held, off-camera flash can be used to mix with available light. This is one example: Arpita Patel - Flash / Lean | Flickr - Photo Sharing! The downside of using the filter is that if you're in mixed lighting conditions (bright-->dimmer-->bright) as you find when walking around in a city, it slows you down when working to take the filter on and off. Of note, I've never seen the vignetting condition mentioned in this thread--surprised to see that. Cheers! Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 12, 2010 Share #6 Posted October 12, 2010 I'm using an 6-stop ND filter on the CV35 f/1.2 to be able to shoot in Sunny 16 conditions at f/1.2. For this purpose, it's always in my bag if I think I'm going to be shooting during the day. This set, as one example, was shot with an ND filter and slower speeds:Kendra Danelle Photoshoot - a set on Flickr It's also helpful when shooting in brighter conditions to bring the speed down into the 1/250th and 1/125th range so hand-held, off-camera flash can be used to mix with available light. This is one example: Arpita Patel - Flash / Lean | Flickr - Photo Sharing! The downside of using the filter is that if you're in mixed lighting conditions (bright-->dimmer-->bright) as you find when walking around in a city, it slows you down when working to take the filter on and off. Of note, I've never seen the vignetting condition mentioned in this thread--surprised to see that. Cheers! Will Did you add light in the first set? Maybe you could swap filters more quickly with a holder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Negative Posted October 12, 2010 Share #7 Posted October 12, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) You could use something like a Cokin "P" sized holder with Lee, Hi-Tech or Singh Ray ND filters, sure... Makes a lot of sense if you plan to use a variety of different thread size lenses. It's a bit of a large setup though and you'll also need a hood of some sort. I don't know off-hand if these filter manufacturers make size "A" filters - and I wouldn't use the Cokin brand ones. I think you're better off getting the largest screw-in filter size you'll expect to need and step rings for your other sizes if necessary. Much smaller setup and usually works with the stock lens hood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstotler Posted October 12, 2010 Share #8 Posted October 12, 2010 Did you add light in the first set? Maybe you could swap filters more quickly with a holder. Thanks. Didn't add light that I can recall--I was thinking about doing it but repositioned the model instead. It was bright and hot. The filter holder is a bit more than I want to deal with--thanks for suggesting it, though. Cheers! Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 13, 2010 Share #9 Posted October 13, 2010 Leave the adapter on the camera and leave the nd filter(s) in the holder the whole shoot, and clip-on / clip-off (takes a second). But I'll admit I haven't rigged any hood up yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 14, 2010 Share #10 Posted October 14, 2010 You could use something like a Cokin "P" sized holder with Lee, Hi-Tech or Singh Ray ND filters, sure... Makes a lot of sense if you plan to use a variety of different thread size lenses. It's a bit of a large setup though and you'll also need a hood of some sort. I don't know off-hand if these filter manufacturers make size "A" filters - and I wouldn't use the Cokin brand ones... thanks, this is interesting. Nothing really good for the Cokin A (67mm) or P (84mm), I think, but you can always cut something. I need to find out what width filter these take--2mm, 4mm ? I would like to have the cake and eat it too: nd, grad, polarizer, and hood, and be able to preview the polarizer. I have some of the Lee 75 X 100 X 2mm and a holder but they don't make more than a 3-stop nd (except for a 10 stop). There is a clip-on polarizer (don't have it) that rotates independently of the other filters. Tiffen makes a 5-stop nd, but it's 4mm and I don't know the brand at all. Cokin makes hoods for the two small holders. No hood for the small Lee holder ("RF75"), and apparently no way to use 4mm thick filters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 14, 2010 Share #11 Posted October 14, 2010 does anyone know, is the Leica flip up polarizer threaded in front?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgc2010 Posted October 14, 2010 Share #12 Posted October 14, 2010 A couple of you mention the fact that using stronger ND filters result in a colour cast. I read somewhere (Robert White's page on B+W filters I think) that the ND should be placed behind the UV/IR filter to eliminate this cast. Does anyone know if this combination of two 39mm filters on the end of a summicron 50mm lens will cause noticeable vignetting? Hope the first paragraph is helpful to someone and I also hope someone can help me with the second! Here it is: B+W Neutral Density Filter 106 Reduces the Light intensity by six f-stops B+W Neutral Density Filter 106 This B+W Neutral Density Filter reduces the light by six f-stops. With this filter and without changing the f-stop, a shutter speed of 1/60 s is changed to a full second, thus requiring the use of a tripod. Flowing water is rendered as flowing in the photo, and people moving in streets are dissolved in unsharpness or become invisible. Because of its higher transmission in the red beyond 660 nm, this filter brings a slightly warm tone to color photographs. If this effect is undesirable, a B+W UV-/IR-Blocking Filter 486 in front of the neutral density filter (not behind it!) remedies that situation. The filter factor is 64x. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstotler Posted October 14, 2010 Share #13 Posted October 14, 2010 does anyone know, is the Leica flip up polarizer threaded in front?? Now there's an idea/solution. Simple. Effective. I was almost ready to do a facepalm before I checked mine and discovered. . . . Nope. No threads. Cheers! Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 15, 2010 Share #14 Posted October 15, 2010 thanks, I appreciate the info. One last idea--if you only need three stops, Lee makes a Gel Snap holder with a set of polyester nd filters. It attaches right to the lens with a rubber band. I haven't personally used it. It's pretty inexpensive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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