al-fresco Posted October 6, 2010 Share #41 Posted October 6, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) What do you mean by 'inner lid' ? My Patterson tank has the lid proper, which screws onto the tank, then the lid or cap to stop the chemicals pouring out when you invert the tank. As you were at the end of the developer cycle you should be OK though. My Patterson tank has a lightproof inner lid that fits inside, over the spool and then an outer lid that holds the chemicals in - but yes, the negs were quite unharmed by exposure to light even though they hadn't been fixed. Well I never! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 6, 2010 Posted October 6, 2010 Hi al-fresco, Take a look here Your film workflow?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
erl Posted October 6, 2010 Share #42 Posted October 6, 2010 Been there, done that, traumatic at the time. Bottom line is, with any luck the bulk of the light sensitive silver has been developed away. Also, light penetration into that tank, even with the lid off is not good. However, avoid direct light such as shining a torch into the tank to see if the film is OK. Even at the stop bath stage I reckon you are safe to remove the lid, but I don't recommend it! Nothing useful served by doing it. I have actually loaded a film in the dark and 'forgot' to put the lid on. Then turned on the darkroom light. Almost no images were lost. Only the outer few of the roll. The anti halation backing, I reckon, works as a 'light blocker' and protects most of the roll because of the way it sits in the tank. So, always finish the process, even if you suspect you 'mucked' up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bateleur Posted October 6, 2010 Share #43 Posted October 6, 2010 As I'm on the verge of a darkroom session - here goes my routine perhaps a very different process from what you had in mind, for which my apologies. (also as a reminder for myself as it's been a month or so since I was there... as one tends to forget these things) Negatives - Load spiral. - Prepare chemicals - Ilford ID-11 1+1 at 20 degrees (my standard brew) - Stop bath (Amaloco) at approximately 20 degrees - Fixer My last batch of Agfa is depleted now on plan B is Amaloco - Process using the standard timing - Wash (10 changes of water the last being with a drop of wetting agent) - Dry (film is suspended horizontally and not hung) - Cut strips and file away when dry Printing - the fun stuff - Select music for background or foreground listening depending on mood, this is supposed to be fun remember. - Prepare chemicals (depending on desired print size either slot processor for up to 8*10 or larger in open trays) - Being Ilford Developer and Fixer, Amaloco Stop. The volume having been determined above - Make contact print for processed film as above - Wash (10 changes of water, strictly so not to waste) - Select negatives to print from the contact sheet - From time to time a friendly knock on the door for a cuppa, a chat and some constructive criticism - Per negative decide on desired contrast and format. Measure shadow density for exposure. - Expose, process, wash and dry. Often (more than I'd admit to) a second print or dare I say third is made as some improvement is required so repeat last three steps. That’s it… Oh and only the prints that I select for my web page or forums are scanned Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shootinglulu Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share #44 Posted October 6, 2010 Thanks a lot for all the detailed guidance here, i will keep coming back to learn.. now i'm lusting after an MP to put the film in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 7, 2010 Share #45 Posted October 7, 2010 Process in either Dixactol or D76 or ID-11 1:2. But I had a terrible problem with dust so that the dried negatives were a mess. (I use a Leitz Focomat IIa, which is a condenser enlarger that would make anyone a Spot Tone expert.) Then I purchased a Senrac film dryer and replaced the foam filter with a HEPA filter. The results are very good, and if I need to, I can add another filter layer over that. SENRAC - which I had originally in the Seventies on the day-job. Simple and good. Here is a late model with a standard filter. Small point. Hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
noah_addis Posted October 7, 2010 Share #46 Posted October 7, 2010 Process in either Dixactol or D76 or ID-11 1:2. But I had a terrible problem with dust so that the dried negatives were a mess. (I use a Leitz Focomat IIa, which is a condenser enlarger that would make anyone a Spot Tone expert.) Then I purchased a Senrac film dryer and replaced the foam filter with a HEPA filter. The results are very good, and if I need to, I can add another filter layer over that. SENRAC - which I had originally in the Seventies on the day-job. Simple and good. Here is a late model with a standard filter. Small point. Hope this helps. Wow, that brings back memories! The Senrac dryers were a standard at newspapers. We had a few of them and they work quite well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bateleur Posted October 12, 2010 Share #47 Posted October 12, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) ... now i'm lusting after an MP to put the film in. Can't think of a better film holder. Regards Charles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastgreenlander Posted October 30, 2011 Share #48 Posted October 30, 2011 -shot film & write speed on film canister, Tri X 400 -develope in d-76 or spur HRX 3 or rodinal, depending on the look I want. -scan with vuescan and minolta dimage II scanner Post in my website Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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