Back to the future: digital to film

[mgreernz]

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I know: some of my camera cohorts will think I'm barking mad.

 

I've been around serious photography for the past 50 years and wandered haphazardly across to digital about 12 years ago. But I'd never lost my fondness for a RF - and recently, finally made the switch from dSLR to an M9. But dang, as much as I love the M9, it's rekindled my enthusiasm for film! Particularly B&W as a medium.

 

So, with an M7 in hand and a 35mm f2 Cron (I have a very understanding wife), I'm heading back to the future. My darkroom went years ago, so I'm going to have to rely on a pro lab to develop and scan for me. I have a good one, so that's not the problem and I'll post-edit at the desk. The hitch, is that it's 15 years or more since I've been around pro quality B&W films and I'm most likely out of touch with "which film".

 

In the past, it was most often FP4, always good for being pushed by at least 1 stop. I'm thinking of trialling three: FP4 Plus, HP5 Plus 400 and Delta 100.

 

Any wise words of advice before I beam myself up?

[andybarton]

Plenty of people have already trodden the path you are about to go down

 

I'm not a big fan of FP4+, but I do like PanF+ and my "400ASA" film of choice is Tri-X. For medium speed, I choose Delta 100

 

All of these I rate at 1/3 stop slower than on the box and I process the film myself for 10% less time than recommended on the digitaltruth site. I find this reduces contrast, keeps detail in the shadows and avoids blowing out the highlights.

 

Most of the b&w examples on my website (link below) were taken with PanF+ and Tri-X if you're interested.

[richam]

My darkroom went years ago, so I'm going to have to rely on a pro lab to develop and scan for me.

 

You're missing half the fun. And your personal control over the process will never be matched by a pro lab. For a very reasonable investment you can get into developing and scanning your own films. And you don't need a darkroom to do it.

 

My favorite combo is Delta 100 in Rodinal 1:25. Have fun.

[Riccis]

Michael:

 

Go for it! I'm also not a big fan of FP4+ but love and shoot all the time with the emulsions below...

 

-Tri-X (I've shot it at 400, 1600, 3200 and 6400... Love it)

-HP5+ (@400 and 1600 also a very nice film)

-The Neopan family (100, 400, 1600)... You can't go wrong with them...

-TMAX 3200 (@3200 and 6400, amazing film)

-Delta 3200 (this is the film I push high most of the time 6400 and 12,500)

-For low speed, I love the Efke emulsions (Efke 25 and 50)

 

Hope this does helps more than confuse ... I usually try to post the film used in the majority of my blog posts (Riccis Valladares Photography Blog | Latest work from Riccis Valladares | Fine Art Wedding Photography | Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Miami), so feel free to stop by.

 

Cheers,

[keithdunlop]

I recently started down a similar path. I picked up an M6 and 50mm Zeiss f/2.0 last month and have been adding film coverage for my wedding clients, as well as having much more fun with my personal work. I'm still using D700's for the majority of my paid work, but getting back to rangefinder photography and shooting film again has completely changed how I work for the better.

 

I wrote about this in detail on my blog: Rediscovering an Old Friend.

 

As far as films, my two primary ones are Ilford HP5 and Delta 3200 (shot at 1600). I gave up my darkroom years ago as well, but I kept all of my processing gear. So my 6-year-old is sharing her bathroom with me. However, the last batch I had processed and scanned commercially so I can judge whether I can get better files vs. doing it myself.

 

The attached shot is Ilford HP5 developed in DD-X and scanned with an Epson 4990.

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[tobey bilek]

XP2 scans the best if you are sending it out anyway.

 

Tri X if you do it yourself.

 

Do not push process. Develope to minimal contrast. Scanners don`t work well with high contrast and do not let anybody tell you otherwise. It is simple to get more contrast, close to impossible to get rid of too much.

 

All film should be developed to print on #2 paper with a condenser enlarger. Then back down from there.

[NickB]

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Dear Michael, Much good advice in the comments by respondents. It depends entirely on what you photograph. Most of them mention the mid to higher speed films. I still use my M2 and 6 for monochrome landscape photography and need the great clarity and detail the lenses can give, but I need slow speed films where grain structure does not become the limiting factor for good sized enlargements, especially since I now scan my negatives and scanners exaggerate grain much like the old condenser enlargers did. Have tried Rolleipan 25 ASA film in Perceptol with reasonable results, but I have just got hold of some Rollei ATP 1.1 film that looks as though it should replace my much loved, now extinct, Kodak Techpan. I also live in New Zealand, in Taupo, access to both film and developer is very limited. Greg Bramwell at Photo and Video in Christchurch, where you live, have been very helpful and will get film in for you from the USA. Good luck, I'd be interested in your final deliberations, NickB

[mgreernz]

Thanks for the response Nick. Yes, I know Greg well and he's been my source for all things photographic for some years now (in fact, my wife is convinced that by now I must own shares in the business!). I've relaunched into film initially with some Delta 100 & 400. But like you, I'm primarily landscape so I might make some enquiry about the Rollei ATP you refer to. Until '95 we lived in Auckland and I used PCL for most of my lab work. But now this far south, I'm currently looking for an equivalent closer option - Image Lab is one possibility. I haven't any real enthusiasm for reestablishing a darkroom so I've just forward-ordered the new Canon CS9000F from Greg, which hopefully will serve me well - the spec and early commentary looks good anyway.

[tgray]

If you are comfortable with developing yourself, and it sounds like you are, just buy some tanks and the chemicals and do it at home. Buy a decent scanner and you are good to go.